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Staining a stock question *UPDATE*

Abilene Slim SASS 81783

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13 minutes ago, Knarley Bob said:

You really wouldn't like my Pedersoli sharps then................

I don't have to - :lol:

And you're happy!  So here's one for you too.  :lol:


It's great that stain can get things to where folks want it to be, just in case they aren't there naturally.


Wouldn't it be wonderful if all of life's problems were so straight forward to fix up?




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While not an M1, I did refinish my 1973 Rem 700 BDL, .243Win in high school in 1978. My grandparents gave me this rifle as my 12th b-day present so it has a lot of sentimental value. About 15 years ago a guy at a shooting range offered me $1,100 for it. Nope.


The factory finish developed a couple of places where the poly was cracking and lifting, plus I'm not really a fan of that shiny, gloss finish. So I took the entire rifle to woodshop class, disassembled and locked the barreled action if the teachers office.


Since this was 1978, the eco-, citrus strippers were not available so I used some caustic stripper, sanded it all down to 200 grit, used a walnut stain to get the color I wanted, then finished with 4 coats of Brichwood Casey Tru-Oil, buffing with 0000 steel wool between coats. Turned out beautiful.


I have since acquired a Rem 700 ADL in .30-06 and finally found a BDL stock for it that matches my .243, for a reasonable price. I'm in the process of glass bedding and refinishing this new stock for the same reasons; poor QC from OEM. Hopefully 40 years difference can still get two stocks that look good together. Difference will really be the blued .243 vs. the matte black .30-06.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The M1 project is finally complete. One thing I learned is you can't use old Tru-Oil even when thinned with denatured alcohol. Took three weeks for the first coat of finish to dry. Got a new bottle and thereafter it took overnight to dry.  After applying the finish coats (4) daylight shows some difference between the hand guards and stock, but I'm still very happy with the results. used 0000 steel wool between coats and after the final coat, then rubbed with an old cotton t-shirt. 4 pics below. 


Thanks for the help!


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On 8/20/2017 at 3:40 PM, Abilene Slim SASS 81783 said:

I wanted a darker color than the previous "refinisher" to make it closer to period correct, but not as dark as many M1's I've seen. You can barely see the grain in some of them, so I've backed it off a little.


As said earlier today, matching the pieces proved difficult. Instead of stripping as planned, I just sanded them with 220 grit and applied the Jacobean color Joe suggested. Bingo! They now match the stock. Everything is a nice deep walnut color with just a hint of red. Exactly like I wanted.


Thanks to Joe for the tip on Jacobean and for the input from all of you. This has been a great thread that's lead me in directions I might not have gone otherwise.


Pics to come after the final finish coats are applied.



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