Springs for Uberti Cattleman - how long do they last?

[Rancid Loosehammer]

Hello all -

I am asking for information regarding the replacement hammer and bolt/trigger springs available from Wolff and Lee (gunslinger) for a Uberti Cattleman.

Specifically I'm trying to find out how long to expect these springs to last?

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Howdy

 

The hammer spring will last forever. I have never heard of a hammer spring from a SAA or clone breaking.

 

Trigger/bolt springs are a different story. If you get the wire type springs, they will last forever too, however I don't care for wire springs as they tend to be a little bit lighter than I like. The traditional flat trigger/bolt spring in a Colt or clone can tend to break. It does not matter much who made it, the design is simply prone to breakage. No telling how long one might last, it might last for ten years, it might break tomorrow. Always a good idea to have an extra on hand.

 

You can extend the life of a flat trigger/bolt spring by very carefully going over it with stone or very fine sandpaper to round over any rough edges and remove any nicks or tooling marks. Particularly at the joint of the two legs. That is where they usually tend to break.

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

Ditto to what Driftwood said. I have customers who have been running the same Main Springs for 10+ years. They very seldom break. I don't personally know anyone who has had a Mainspring break.

 

Trigger/Bolt springs are a different matter. Flat T/B springs will break. Sometimes it takes a long time and sometimes, not so long. I don't know anyone who had broken a wire T/B spring. I just personally don't like them. To me they make the action fell ..... "mushy." They (wire springs) work just fine, I just don't like them. For a lighter T/B spring in a Uberti built gun I switch them out for Pietta T/B springs. I bit lighter than an OEM spring from Uberti but not mushy like a wire spring.

I also dont't care for Wolff. I prefer Lees Gunsmithing Gunfighter springs or the reduced Main Spring from VTI Gunparts.

 

Coffinmaker

[dutch bear]

Howdy

 

The hammer spring will last forever. I have never heard of a hammer spring from a SAA or clone breaking.

 

Trigger/bolt springs are a different story. If you get the wire type springs, they will last forever too, however I don't care for wire springs as they tend to be a little bit lighter than I like. The traditional flat trigger/bolt spring in a Colt or clone can tend to break. It does not matter much who made it, the design is simply prone to breakage. No telling how long one might last, it might last for ten years, it might break tomorrow. Always a good idea to have an extra on hand.

 

You can extend the life of a flat trigger/bolt spring by very carefully going over it with stone or very fine sandpaper to round over any rough edges and remove any nicks or tooling marks. Particularly at the joint of the two legs. That is where they usually tend to break.

 

i have heard of breaking main springs, and the wire type trigger spring broke on my last match so nothing is for ever.

but the wire springs last a lot longer than the flat ones.

my advice, if you have 2 guns order 3 sets and a set of 5 triggersprings, this way you always have the right spring if something brakes

and if you can help some one on the range repair his/her gun with a spring that only cost a couple of $, is priceless.

 

succes with the springs

Dutch Bear

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

i have heard of breaking main springs, and the wire type trigger spring broke on my last match so nothing is for ever.

but the wire springs last a lot longer than the flat ones.

my advice, if you have 2 guns order 3 sets and a set of 5 triggersprings, this way you always have the right spring if something brakes

and if you can help some one on the range repair his/her gun with a spring that only cost a couple of $, is priceless.

 

The hammer spring on my Uberti 1873 rifle snapped in half a bunch of years ago, but that is because Uberti does not remove the tooling marks across the spring. One of the tooling marks functioned as a perfect stress riser. Frankly, I am amazed more Uberti rifle hammer springs don't break because they are so poorly finished. All of my rifle hammer springs have the tooling marks polished off. But like I said, I have never heard of a Colt or SAA clone hammer spring breaking. I'm amazed you had a wire trigger/bolt spring break. I have never heard of one breaking before.

[Rancid Loosehammer]

Thanks a bunch for the input so far!

Very good information for me!

 

My 45 Colt Uberti Cattleman is a back-up for my two original 44 mag Ruger Vaqueros (44 special), just to have a backup handgun in case one of my Rugers decides to develop a belly ache during a match. So it won't be shot nearly as much as a primary main match gun. The likelyhood of one of my Rugers breaking down is fairly slim - both have been completely gone through by Bob Munden.

 

Still, I want the Uberti to be as reliable as possible, and was considering having Bob Munden's coil spring conversion installed. But thanks to your input I believe I will just stick with the flat hammer spring.

 

An now ... another question:

The Uberti does not have a hardened steel insert in the frame where the firing pin passes through the frame like a Colt or USFA or Ruger does. Due to the reltively soft steel in the frame, over time the pressure from fired primers can cause a dimple to develop around the firing pin, with the primer flowing into that dimple and locking the gun up. I have read a number of accounts of this on the SASS Wire, and also a number of references to a burr developing around the firing in for the same reason. So ... I am wondering if anyone knows of a good gunsmith who can install a hardened steel insert there?

[Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440]

Any gun used as a backup to a Ruger will last longer than you will. AAMOF it may never see daylight.

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Howdy

 

Colts and S&W do have a hardened steel insert in the frame. Rugers do not. But Ruger frames are completely hardened all the way through the metal, so I have never seen any deformation of the frame at the firing pin hole.

 

What usually happens is the firing pin 'finds' its way through the hole in the frame. Colt and clone firing pins are mounted so they can swivel up or down slightly as they make their way through the hole. This is necessary because of the geometry of the path of the firing pin as it arcs through the air. As the pin goes through the hole, it tends to touch the metal of the frame on its way through. Going through at great speed over and over again the firing pin tends to peen over the metal at the surface of the hole. What usually happens is a burr is raised. If the burr rises high enough it can interfere with rotation of the cylinder.

 

I bought a used Cattleman a bunch of years ago. When I got it home I foolishly loaded it with live cartridges in the basement, just to see how it felt. You guessed it, the burr raised by the previous owner was so high that it was scraping on the case heads and primers of the rounds in the cylinder. I could not rotate the cylinder at all, and it was scary because the burr was scraping across live primers in live rounds. Eventually I was able to wrestle the cylinder out of the gun. I will never again place live rounds into a revolver without first checking to make sure a burr has not been raised.

 

You are correct, the hardened insert that Colt stakes in the recoil shield is there to prevent the soft steel of the frame from peening over. If you cannot find a smith to install a hardened insert there is a simple work around. First, determine if there is a raised burr at all. You may not have one. If you feel a raised burr at the firing pin hole, take a very fine file or a stone and file the burr flat. Do this by holding the file or stone flat against the recoil shield, do not lift it up or angle it. Just a couple of strokes is all that is usually needed. Then shoot the gun for a while and see if the burr returns. Sometimes it does not. If the burr returns take a drill bit and stick it into the hole. The bit should be a good amount larger than the firing pin hole. Wrap the bit with tape if it extends into the barrel at all, so as not to mar the rifling. Very, very carefully, turn the bit by hand so that a teeny, tiny amount of steel is removed at the firing pin hole, creating a very, very small countersink. Do not over do this, just remove the slightest amount so that you can see a tiny bevel around the hole.

 

I have done this on a bunch of my Uberti revolvers. The tiny countersink (bevel) creates a void for any burr to rise into, without invading the space where the case heads and primers spin by. I have done this several times, I just remove a tiny amount of metal. I have had no problems with primers flowing into the tiny countersink and causing any problems binding up the gun. Just remove a teeny, tiny amount of steel. But first file off the burr and see if the problem recurs.

 

I have also read that dry firing is the culprit with raising the burr. Frankly, that does not make much sense to me, I don't see the presence of a cartridge as having any bearing on whether a burr will be raised. But perhaps those who dry fire a lot simply send the firing pin through the hole more often then those of us who don't dry fire. I do know on another Cattleman of mine I did have to file off the burr, and I never dry fire. But if you shoot the gun infrequently, you may not have a problem at all.

[Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440]

Driftwood, the Rugers DO have a "cup" in the frame. It does two things, act as a precision, replaceable FP guide, and retainer for the FP and spring. They are bummer to remove and replace, as they are held in place by a LONG, thin cross pin through the frame, from the gate opening to the other side. To remove the cup, the cross pin has to be drifted clear, the frame immobilized, and a drift held firmly against the firing pin, compressing the spring, then drifted out with firm hammer blows. When reinstalled, the cup has to perfectly aligned so the long skinny pin will pass through a groove in the circumference of the cup, and driven back in place using a long brass drift down the barrel.

 

See parts 44 and 46 here:

http://floridaarms.com/images/Ruger_New_Model_Blackhawk_schematic_with_key.pdf

[Rancid Loosehammer]

Well, Driftwood -

Both of my Rugers do have an insert there. The only question is whether or not that insert is hardened steel. I presumed that it was/is. But apparently what I am seeing is the "cup" described by Adirondak above.

 

And ... Adirondak, Rugers may be rugged, but they are not indestructible. They are mechanical, therefore they can break.

 

Anyway, I am thinking that a good well-equiped gunsmith ought to be able to fabricate / insert such an insert.

So far I have sent inquiry emails to Nate Kiowa Jones, Bob Munden and Rick Stover, but haven't gotten any response so far.

 

The fix you have very adequately explained may work. But if it keeps recurring, it's just a band-aid fix, and sooner or later there will no longer be enough "flesh" left to put the "bandaid" on ... and then we're right back to my original question ... who can insert a proper insert there?

[Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440]

Well, Driftwood -

Both of my Rugers do have an insert there. The only question is whether or not that insert is hardened steel. I presumed that it was/is. But apparently what I am seeing is the "cup" described by Adirondak above.

Anyway, I am thinking that a good well-equiped gunsmith ought to be able to fabricate / insert such an insert.

So far I have sent inquiry emails to Nate Kiowa Jones, Bob Munden and Rick Stover, but haven't gotten any response so far.

 

The fix you have very adequately explained may work. But if it keeps recurring, it's just a band-aid fix, and sooner or later there will no longer be enough "flesh" left to put the "bandaid" on ... and then we're right back to my original question ... who can insert a proper insert there?

 

The Ruger insert is hard. The frame is "tough" but not all that hard..... AAMOF Ruger calls that cup the "recoil shield", and I suspect it is designed to NOT deform under hammering from heavy loads.

[Cypress Sam, SASS #10915]

The mainspring in my 1902 Colt SAA broke in 1997 after using it as my "starter" pistol in SASS. I have about 20 other single actions, either Colts or clones. None of the others ever broke a mainspring. I've had two trigger/bolt springs break in the nearly 20 years that I've been shooting SASS.

 

None of my Rugers ever had anything break.

[Rancid Loosehammer]

Thanks Cypress -

My confidence in the flat / wire springs has grown by leaps and bounds.

What on earth do you do with 20+ single actions??

It's either a long story or a bad addiction.

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

Not to drift this thread, but we do NOT consider the Single Action Addiction to be a "bad" addiction. You can't have too many ...........

[Gunner Gatlin, SASS 10274L]

This is just one of those threads that I learn from - thanks fellers...

 

 

GG ~

[Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440]

Not to drift this thread, but we do NOT consider the Single Action Addiction to be a "bad" addiction. You can't have too many ...........

 

 

You get no argument from me, CC. but if ya shoot ROOGERS, ya only need two

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

The fix you have very adequately explained may work. But if it keeps recurring, it's just a band-aid fix, and sooner or later there will no longer be enough "flesh" left to put the "bandaid" on ... and then we're right back to my original question ... who can insert a proper insert there?

 

Well, I learn something every day. I did not know that Rugers have a hardened insert there. It is not as visible as the insert in a Colt or S&W.

 

You can buy the hardened insert from Eddie Janis at Peacemaker Specialists. No need to go to the expense of making one. Look for the Recoil Plate under parts.

 

Peacemaker Specialists

 

However in order to install it a counterbore will have to be cut in the frame to receive it. The insert is then pressed into the frame with an arbor inserted down the bore. As far as I can see, the only way to cut the counterbore is either with a very long endmill inserted down the barrel, or else removing the barrel and doing it with a conventional endmill.

 

I can't help you with who can do it for you, but I assure you my method is not a bandaide. I have not had to redo it for the Cattleman I still own. Besides, if the gun in question is just a backup gun, just how much do you plan on shooting it anyway? It takes a lot of snapping the hammer before the burr appears.

[DocWard]

You get no argument from me, CC. but if ya shoot ROOGERS, ya only need two

 

What is this "need" of which you speak?

[Rancid Loosehammer]

Thanks Driftwood on the info of where to obtain an insert! And you are right, I probably don't NEED to go to the pain/expense of having an insert installed. But as a computer analyst by trade, I am inherently ANAL.

 

Also, I have to correct myself. I hate eating crow. Both of my original Ruger Vaqueros do NOT have such an insert! My case/blue Vaquero does, but my polished stainless Vaquero does NOT. Both guns were purchased new in 2002. It is easy to tell, because if your gun does have the "cup" or "insert", you can SEE the end of the cross-pin in the left half of the recoil shield from outside the gun - you don't even have to remove the cylinder. My blued Vaquero has it, my stainless gun does not. So ... are we to surmise from this that the stainless steel is harder than the steel in the blued guns? Oh-oh. Here we go on another tangeant. Oh well.

[Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440]

Thanks Driftwood on the info of where to obtain an insert!

 

Also, I have to correct myself. I hate eating crow. Both of my original Ruger Vaqueros do NOT have such an insert! My case/blue Vaquero does, but my polished stainless Vaquero does NOT. Both guns were purchased new in 2002. It is easy to tell, because if your gun does have the "cup" or "insert", you can SEE the end of the cross-pin in the left half of the recoil shield from outside the gun - you don't even have to remove the cylinder. My blued Vaquero has it, my stainless gun does not. So ... are we to surmise from this that the stainless steel is harder than the steel in the blued guns? Oh-oh. Here we go on another tangeant. Oh well.

 

 

It's there, but the pin end is polished so well it disappears. Open the loading gate and see the other end of the pin or more likely the hole the pin is in. The "recoil shield" cup is what holds the firing pin and spring in the frame. (the FP can't go in from the back, has to go in from the front...)

[Rancid Loosehammer]

OK - eating this crow is getting old.

Yes, I can see the hole for a pin in the loading gate, and there appears to be a pin in it. But the outside of the gun has no clue - if it is just because it's polished, then that pin has to have an EXTREMELY tight fit in order to TOTALLY disappear, not even a small ring where steel meets steel. Ditto on the inside face of the recoil shield around the firing pin. There is absolutely no hint of any insert there. I even polished that area with some polishing compound to remove any residue, and absolutely no clue showing - no ring where steel meets steel, nothing.

[Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440]

OK - eating this crow is getting old.

Yes, I can see the hole for a pin in the loading gate, and there appears to be a pin in it. But the outside of the gun has no clue - if it is just because it's polished, then that pin has to have an EXTREMELY tight fit in order to TOTALLY disappear, not even a small ring where steel meets steel. Ditto on the inside face of the recoil shield around the firing pin. There is absolutely no hint of any insert there. I even polished that area with some polishing compound to remove any residue, and absolutely no clue showing - no ring where steel meets steel, nothing.

Polishing in this instance is a factory euphemism that includes some pretty aggressive machine sanding. The hole and pin get pretty well merged before what we'd call polishing takes place. I have one CCB framed gun that I can't see the pin either....

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Thanks Driftwood on the info of where to obtain an insert! And you are right, I probably don't NEED to go to the pain/expense of having an insert installed. But as a computer analyst by trade, I am inherently ANAL.

 

The peening over that happens does not happen overnight. It usually takes time and the burr usually grows gradually until it finally becomes a problem. I am anal too. But I temper that with what needs to be done right now and what can wait. Go take the cylinder out of the gun right now and run your finger over the hole. Do you feel a raised burr? You can also lay a straight edge across the hole to see if any burr is interfering with allowing the straight edge to lie flat.

 

If not, just shoot the gun until you feel a burr beginning to rise. When you do feel a burr beginning to rise, file it flat as I mentioned. Do not do the drill bit thing. At this point you know the problem will develop and that is the time to consider installing a hardened recoil plate. But if the gun is only to be used as backup, and you seldom shoot it, the burr may never rise.

 

Here is a photo of the recoil plate in one of my Colts. It is real obvious that it is there. Perhaps I can be forgiven for not realizing the almost invisible retaining cup is in a Ruger.

 

Colt Recoil Plate

 

Here is a photo of my one remaining Uberti Cattleman after I did my little repair. You can see I twisted the drill bit by hand and got a little bit of chatter. But the point is, this pistol was fired about 1000 times before I bought the Colt, effectively relegating the Uberti to 'standby' status. The burr did not reappear after firing those 1000 rounds. The other Uberti I had the problem with was much farther gone. A previous owner had allowed it to get really bad and then I bought the gun. But if you know what to look for, you can nip this in the bud.

 

Uberti Firing Pin Hole

 

My point is, call around and find out who can install a recoil plate if you want, but unless you shoot the gun regularly I doubt it will cause you a problem. Even if the problem raises its ugly head, you have plenty time to deal with it. Just file it flat and start getting quotes on installing the plate.

 

Frankly, as has already been mentioned, using an Uberti as a backup to Rugers is kind of unusual. I always bring along a pair of Ruger 'original model' Vaqueros to every match as backups to my Colts. For close to ten years I never needed the backups. Then last year the trigger/bolt spring in one Colt broke at one match, and a few weeks later the bolt in the other Colt broke. So I was glad I had the Rugers along. Flat springs can break. They simply snap off with little warning. That's why it is good to have a spare. The burr thing will give you plenty of warning if you know what to look for. Your finger will let you know if the problem is starting to develop. If the gun is fired infrequently, I doubt you will ever have a problem from a raised burr around the firing pin hole.

 

If you want to see what a broken trigger/bolt spring looks like, here is a photo of one. This break is absolutely typical. Right across the leg. It can happen at either leg. See how tiny that radius is? Perfect stress riser. Sometimes the leg snaps right off and you are dead in the water. Sometimes the crack is not all the way through and the spring is weak for a while. Sometimes it breaks off in your hand when you remove it. That's why having a couple of spares around is a good idea.

 

The broken bolt is a bit unusual. The bolt leg that broke actually serves as a spring, flexing every time the cam flashes past as the hammer falls, then springing back to place. But that Colt was made in 1968, and has been shot pretty heavily in CAS for the last ten years, so I was not all that surprised that it broke. I hope its replacement lasts as long.

 

Broken Colt Parts

[Rancid Loosehammer]

Well, everybody, I have decided to follow Driftwood's advice.

He was good enough to provide his very extensive experience, complete with pictures, and I appreciate that very much.

My Uberti Cattleman will be shot a fair amount, just because I happen to like the way it feels and will shoot it as one pistol in a match now and then just for the fun of it. Yeah, I know ... a big ol' Ruger 44 special combined with a smaller, lighter Cattleman in 45 Colt isn't exactly "consistent" ... but it is interesting. But it won't be shot nearly as much as my Rugers.

 

I probably ought to be more concerned with the possibility of stuffing a 44 special round in one of the chambers when mixing calibers this way. But I promise all of you to be extremely careful about that and not become "DUMB Rancid Loosehammer"!

[Rancid Loosehammer]

Earlier I said I had inquired several places to see if any gunsmith could/would install a Colt recoil plate in a Uberti Cattleman.

This morning I got an email from Nate Kiowa Jones aka Steve Young (steve@stevesgunz.com).

He says he can do the work and has done several in the past.

His price is $165.00.

It requires stripping the gun to the frame.

(This means removal of the barrel, and that of course means getting it properly sighted in to hit at point of aim again when the barrel is re-installed, which he did not mention).

 

He also included the following info:

Because of two hurricanes and a knee and shoulder operation in the last three years my TAT is running 6 to 8 months minimum. But you don’t need to send your gun now. To send your gun we are doing something different for the folks that don’t want to be without the gun that long.

In the past, we tried a call list but it's just me and my wife so keeping up with it took a lot of time. Some folks never called back, others had sold the gun and some even said there were going to send it but never did.

So we are now asking for a non-refundable deposit for a date on the work calendar. This way we both are committed. We are requesting $50 down on each gun that you want work done on. This deposit applies toward the work to be done. Just send the deposit for each gun along with the filled out WORK REQUEST CALENDER DATE PRINT OUT attached. (if it won’t open for you let me know and I’ll send it separate) It’s very important that your email address is on it, too. When it’s time to send your gun my wife will email you with a CG date #. The CG # stands for calendar gun and will be a date code (i.e. CG 020410 for Feb 4th 2010) That CG# should be mark in bold on the outside of the box so we will know to put the gun in line in the correct spot.

At this time the calendar date to send it will be at least 8 months out. Once you send it I will work it over and returned within 4-6 weeks give or take depending on holidays and such. We hope this will keep everyone happy; us by knowing what is due to come in and you by not doing without your gun for months waiting for us to get to it.

[Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440]

Earlier I said I had inquired several places to see if any gunsmith could/would install a Colt recoil plate in a Uberti Cattleman.

This morning I got an email from Nate Kiowa Jones aka Steve Young (steve@stevesgunz.com).

He says he can do the work and has done several in the past.

His price is $165.00.

It requires stripping the gun to the frame.

(This means removal of the barrel, and that of course means getting it properly sighted in to hit at point of aim again when the barrel is re-installed, which he did not mention).

 

He also included the following info:

Because of two hurricanes and a knee and shoulder operation in the last three years my TAT is running 6 to 8 months minimum. But you don’t need to send your gun now. To send your gun we are doing something different for the folks that don’t want to be without the gun that long.

In the past, we tried a call list but it's just me and my wife so keeping up with it took a lot of time. Some folks never called back, others had sold the gun and some even said there were going to send it but never did.

So we are now asking for a non-refundable deposit for a date on the work calendar. This way we both are committed. We are requesting $50 down on each gun that you want work done on. This deposit applies toward the work to be done. Just send the deposit for each gun along with the filled out WORK REQUEST CALENDER DATE PRINT OUT attached. (if it won’t open for you let me know and I’ll send it separate) It’s very important that your email address is on it, too. When it’s time to send your gun my wife will email you with a CG date #. The CG # stands for calendar gun and will be a date code (i.e. CG 020410 for Feb 4th 2010) That CG# should be mark in bold on the outside of the box so we will know to put the gun in line in the correct spot.

At this time the calendar date to send it will be at least 8 months out. Once you send it I will work it over and returned within 4-6 weeks give or take depending on holidays and such. We hope this will keep everyone happy; us by knowing what is due to come in and you by not doing without your gun for months waiting for us to get to it.

 

 

"indexing" the barrel to go back where it was is no big deal, ergo, not worth mentioning.

[Rancid Loosehammer]

I don't much care if the little mark on the barrel lines up with the little mark on the frame.

What I DO care about is that the lead all goes into one ragged hole dead in the center of the bullseye I'm aiming at.

And that means FIRE SOME LEAD and SIGHT THE GUN IN, tweaking the barrel as necessary, REGARDLESS what the indexing marks say.

[Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440]

I don't much care if the little mark on the barrel lines up with the little mark on the frame.

What I DO care about is that the lead all goes into one ragged hole dead in the center of the bullseye I'm aiming at.

And that means FIRE SOME LEAD and SIGHT THE GUN IN, tweaking the barrel as necessary, REGARDLESS what the indexing marks say.

 

 

If it shoots well now, it will when ya get it back. Unscrewing the barrel and screwing it back into the frame changes nothing.

[Rancid Loosehammer]

Well, let's just put it this way ...

Whoever I end up sending the gun to is going to send the target from his sighting in back to me with the gun, and that's going to be agreed to, else I will not send my gun to him for work.

 

It is a brand new gun ... so of course it does NOT shoot to point of aim ... it shoots left and low, which is totally unacceptable because any gun that won't shoot to point of aim is about as usefull as goose crap on a pump handle. Reshaping the forcing cone to 11 degrees and sighting it in to shoot to point of aim will also be work to be done. Along with a good action job. Reshaping the forcing cone should tighten the group up considerably ... it has done so with every other gun I have had this done to.

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

It is a brand new gun ... so of course it does NOT shoot to point of aim ... it shoots left and low, which is totally unacceptable because any gun that won't shoot to point of aim is about as usefull as goose crap on a pump handle. Reshaping the forcing cone to 11 degrees and sighting it in to shoot to point of aim will also be work to be done.

 

I hate to tell you this, but shooting low and to the left usually means too much finger on the trigger. Are you a righty? It is typical for a righty to push the shots to the left if he has too much finger on the trigger. Nothing to do with the gun. How are you pulling the trigger? With the crease of the first joint of your trigger finger or with the pad under your finger nail. Pulling the trigger with the crease is a classic example of too much finger on the trigger, and usually results in the gun shooting to the left.

 

I have bunches of fixed sight single action revolvers, and they all shoot dead on for windage right out of the box.

[Jabez Cowboy,SASS # 50129]

Howdy ;

 

I have run almost 66,000 rounds through my Uberti Cattleman with-out breaking any springs , plus some dryfiring .....

My other Uberti Cattleman broke the T/B spring at 55,000 rounds .....

 

My guns are .45 ......

 

 

Jabez Cowboy

[Rancid Loosehammer]

Hey Jabez Cowboy -

During all those fired rounds did you experience any development of a burr where the firing pin passes through the frame?

[Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440]

Driftwood is correct. If you get "too deep" in the grip of a SA frame, a right-hander almost CAN'T trip the trigger without pulling it to the left and down. But if ya grip with just the pad of the finger on the trigger, forearm bones parallel to the bore, back of hand canted about 45 degrees, magically that stuff goes away and they hit a whole lot closer to where ya point em.

 

AAMOF I shot about half this season "outlaw" (pistols and shotgun from the hip) and missed more SG targets than pistol targets. As long as I drew the gun correctly, didn't miss my grip, it points very naturally and surprizingly, most of the time ya can hit a SASS target without even looking at the gun.

[Jabez Cowboy,SASS # 50129]

Hey Jabez Cowboy -

During all those fired rounds did you experience any development of a burr where the firing pin passes through the frame?

Nope , things are still running free, and timming is still spot on ... No cyclinder ring ,trigger pull of 28 0nces no creep or overtravel ....

 

Jabez Cowboy