Waxahachie Kid #17017 L

I've been shooting cap & ball revolvers since 1965. My first one was a steel framed 1851 Navy clone. I have shot most all the clone models, including: 1860 Army, 1851 Navy, 1861 Navy, Walker, Dragoon, some of the .31 caliber Colt clones, the Starr Single Action, Remington .44, and .36, Rogers & Spencer, Ruger Old Army, etc. The only three I have not fired are: the LeMat, the double-action Starr, and the Paterson. For my first one, I would start out with the '51 Colt Navy, steel frame model. My reasons? Economical to shoot, very low recoil, grip frame almost identical to the single action 1873 Colt, and the arbor is large, has grease grooves, and if properly lubed, you can shoot a very long time, without having to take it down, to wipe it down, because of the build-up of fouling. Some of the other designs can foul pretty quickly (the operative word here is "can". Doesn't mean they will, but some have more of a tendency to foul, seemingly more quickly, than others). No matter which design/caliber, you choose, I would recommend also to replace the stock cones (nipples) with slick-shot cones. But....this is MY opinion, and I am not saying anyone else is wrong...just going off of my own experiences, since I have been doing this since Moby Dick was a minnow. My Two Bits. W.K.

Sixgun...you are an undeserved gift to so many of us, even those that have not met you in person. Your personality, and character, and helpfulness, did shine through the cyber pages of this S.A.S.S. Wire. Many of us think of you, with fond memories. The passing of time won't ever change that. Most folks make a difference in this life. Some, make a positive difference, like you. Your insight and knowledge, toward the newbies, and younger crowd, made you a positive role model to more than you will ever know. I wish we could all say that. It is great to hear from you, and really great to know you still look on the Wire, from time to time. I often wondered if you did. Take care of yourself, and check in with us, once in a while, if you have the time, and the inclination. The welcome mat is always out for you. Yer Ole Saddle Pal... W.K.

According to an article in Muzzleloader magazine, a few years ago, it is a very simple clean up, and I tried it, and it works great. Go buy a gallon of the blue windshield washer fluid. Costs about two yankee dollars. Put a piece of cloth, or a spent cartridge in the breech of your rifle, and close the breech to seal up that end of the barrel. Stand the rifle up, and pour the blue windshield washer fluid down the barrel, until it is full. Let it stand for about five minutes. Pour that out, and do it a second time. After you pour it out a second time, run a bronze brush, soaked in the blue windshield washer fluid, down the bore. Do that twice. Then follow it with a couple of patches soaked in the blue windshield washer fluid. Then run a couple of dry patches through the bore. Then run a patch down the barrel, with your favorite gun oil on it, and that's it. Takes about fifteen minutes, and five patches. I tried that on my Rossi model '92 clone, after a cow patty shooting session, out in my Dad's pasture, and it works great. The bore is shiny and clean. No hot water, no soapy water, no tons of cleaning patches, easy as pie, it's cheap, and it really works. Muzzleloader magazine is produced by the N.M.L.R.A., and they should know a thing or three about black-powder, and cleaning, and they do. I not only clean my lever action rifles, and C.A.S. revolvers, this way, but my muzzleloaders too. Sure beats a stick in the eye. There ya go. My Two Bits. W.K.

Okay Walmart...how about you stop selling tobacco products, since it can cause cancer, and C.O.P.D.! How about you stop selling beer and wine, since that may cause someone to become an alcoholic. We have a Burger King in our Walmart, so how about closing them down, since they sell burgers that may cause obesity? The same could be said for loaded pizza, and cans of lard, and cans of weed-killer. It is the same reasoning, isn't it??? This just gives me one more reason not to shop there. I never bought ammo there anyway, since the people behind the counter don't know their elbow, from a hot rock, when it comes to caliber, or ammunition. The Mom and Pop gun stores should see a upturn in business, and that is a good thing. Remember to vote next year, and also, right now, you can vote with your billfold, and simply shop elsewhere, if you disagree with their policies, that is. . They can, and will, do as they please...and so will I. My Two Bits. W.K.

I have a model '95 Winchester saddle ring carbine, made in 1915, in 30-40 Krag. I am here to tell you this is one great rifle-caliber combination. The 30-40 Krag is a sleeper cartridge...low recoil, but accurate. Others at the range are always amazed that it can hit the steel at 200 yards, consistently. This is a great rifle, and a great caliber, at a really good price. If I did not already have one, I would get this one in a New York minute. Bump to the top for a Pal, and a great rifle/cartridge. W.K.

Thanks to all that responded. I will pass the word along. W.K.

I was asked, the other day, if there were any websites that offered authentic shotgun chaps (not batwings). My reply to him was one that Festus said one time on GunSmoke: "That remains to be saw." I look around the internet, somewhat, but did not find any websites. Perhaps I did not look long enough, I don't know. I know Jim Green used to have a website, but that website, for him, is not available, that I could find, so I am at a loss. So...the question I will put to you Pards is: Is there a website out there that offers authentic (no zIppers) shotgun chaps in the style of the Old West? Thanks. W.K.

Well, it depends on what era of cowboys you are trying to portray. Bat-wing chaps did not come into the picture until late, 1890's or so. And...it also depends on how important authenticity is to you. For some, authenticity is a big deal...for others...not so much. If you portray the B-westerns, most movie westerns, and television cowboys, the bat-wing chaps seem to be the dominate design. However...the shotgun chaps are the more authentic to the cowboy period, if that matters to you. Since S.A.S.S. allows tons of lee-way in what they insist on, then either design is fine to choose to wear. It just depends on you, and your mind-set, and what is comfortable to you. My Two Bits. W.K.

My first experience with blackpowder/cap and ball revolvers, was in 1966. A friend of mine had an 1851 "Colt style" navy. I was hooked. If I was just starting out with cap and ball revolvers, I would again choose to start with the 1851 "Colt style" navy. Why? Glad you asked. First, I can shoot the .36 caliber '51 a lot of times, before it begins to foul up, and I have break it down to clean it up. In fact, one day in the pasture, shooting cow patty's, I shot all morning, probably at least 25 cylinder loads, with no problems, and no wiping down or spraying any lube on the revolver. I have several "Remington's", but I have never been able to shoot them that much before I have to clean them. My "Remington's" foul fast. Three or so cylinder loads and I am taking off the cylinder and cleaning up the pin. I have .44's and .36's in the "Remington" style, and I have never been able to shoot them a lot without them getting tight and fouled. The cylinder pin on the "Remington" is small, and has no grooves. I have had to take a file, and put some notches in the pin to help hold some lubricant, and help with the fouling. The arbor, or cylinder pin, on the '51 is a lot larger than the "Remington", and it has grooves cut in it to help keep it working, and help hold the lube on the arbor. Also, the .36 uses less powder than the .44's, obviously, and the bullets, be they round or conical, are cheaper. The grip frame of a '51 is pretty much what you would get with the 1873 Colt. Yes, I do like my "Remington's" a lot, but I would not want to start out with one...nor with a Starr, nor with a LeMat, nor with a Rogers & Spencer, nor with anything else. In my humble opinion, I would start out with the 1851 "Colt" style navy, and later expand out to some other designs. My Two Bits. W.K.

Question: Does the Uberti Remington 1875 "Outlaw" have the retractable firing pin on the hammer, like some of the Uberti Colt clones??? I hope not, but I had to ask. Thanks. W.K.

I am, like as not, searching in vain, for a nice used set of 50-140 Sharps dies. But I had to ask. Thanks. W.K.

If any of you Pards are planning on going to Dick;s "Sporting Goods" stores to buy any firearms, ammunition, accessories, apparel, or anything associated with hunting, you are just flat out of luck. I have a notice on my e-mail site that they are dropping anything to do with hunting, from their stores. You can certainly read into that what you wish to, but there it is. I know, for myself, that eliminates completely any reason I have for going into that business, if indeed I had any to begin with. So...F.Y.I. My Two Bits. W.K.

What we all want, and wish for, is quality, but even more important, consistent quality, in the firearms we use, and have fun with. Once-in-a-while quality is not good enough. We all want that for Marlin, and we must insist on it, because Marlin had a standard, at one time, and we insist it meet or exceed that standard. There are still a lot of Marlin's out there to compare to the new one's, and still plenty of us that are old enough to know. We want Marlin/Remington to succeed, not only because Marlin is an American iconic rifle, that dates back to the American West, but because it is an American company that is manufacturing them. The employees, and most of all, the managers, need to take it personally, if one of their rifles leaves the factory in a substandard state. American companies should produce only excellence, and excellence on a consistent basis! No exceptions! In my gun show, and gun shop observations, I have not seen a quality Marlin like our Guest Pard, bgavin, has pictured above. That tells me the quality and excellence are still not consistent. The management sets the tone for a company, so the fault lies with them. There has to be a change of heart and mind, to get consistency, in excellence, and to never settle for less. Come on Marlin/Remington...we are rooting for ya! Git-R-Done!!! (from the movie, Red River, as said by Harry Cary Sr., long before Larry the Cable Guy put a copyright on it). My Two Bits. W.K.

I have seen this over and over, at gun shows, and gun shops. One gun shop I visited had an older, used Marlin, that was probably 20 years old, and a brand new one, on the rack. Both rifles were out in the aisle, so anyone could look at them and handle them. I compared them both, right there, to see what was what. It was amazing. The older Marlin had a rich blue finish, the wood to metal fit was perfect, the action was smooth, but not loose. The wood was the American black walnut, and was solid, without any marks or dents. The new Marlington had a dull black finish on the metal. I could not tell if it was a type of bluing, or if it was spray painted on. There were gaps between the "stock" and the metal, that you could fit the edge of a playing card into. I have no clue as to what kind of wood it was, it had no grain, that I could see. I can say the wood finish was dull. Amazingly the front sight was not straight but was canted to the left on the barrel. I wondered if this was a special order rifle for Jack Elam, but then I remembered he had passed away. I tried to work the lever, but it was stuck tight, in the receiver. I did not force it, since I was not anxious to have to buy the thing, in case I broke it somehow. I am not sure where the quality control people were, when this rifle escaped the factory. Perhaps they don't have any quality control people, I don't know. I have been told that the quality of the rifle's have improved over time, but the last one I looked over, a few weeks ago, did not seem to be too improved. Right now, all I can say is: Rest In Peace, Marlin. Let's hope there is a resurrection of quality, for these American icons, at some point-in-time. My Two Bits. W.K.

I know Lodgewood Mfg. Ltd. does defarb work, but only on the firearms that are associated with the war between the states. Are there other companies/individuals that do defarb work for C.A.S. type firearms? Thanks. W.K.