Marauder SASS #13056

I love a shiny gun! On a nice sunny day, I don't want a lot of reflection on the top of my guns. That is why you will see some stainless guns that have what look like a frosted or sandblasted finish on some parts.

http://marauder.homestead.com/irons.html I updated the links as I could. Did not find Cap't Baylor's older stuff. Likely replaced by his new book.

http://www.curtrich.com/ruger.html Not sure the link still works.

The look great and appear to be very functional! Great job!

It helps to understand that the very large majority of them are quite ignorant about the environment and environmental systems. The leadership know, but helping the environment is NOT their goal. The ultimate goals are first the destruction of capitalism and then the destruction of all carbon based life - humans, animals, plants, etc. Pray for people of the world to actually wake up.

Yup.

You gonna believe the media or your own lying eyes!!!

Could you say he didn't shoot too Badly??!!

Very nice!

You want a smooth action that is consistent and feels right to you. As Colorado said, it only makes a little difference in time, but the confidence to shoot well and quickly hit is what makes a big difference. I did notice quite a bit of difference in MY reliability when I went with the short stroke. I was satisfied with the "3rd" generation or standard stroke. When I was in my prime, shooters were amazed to see three empties in the air and hits in about an inch circle. (Now that is almost standard for the good shooters, let alone the top. Now my best times are at least a second or more slower than the near top shooters) Several years ago in a team side match, I shot against the holder of the rifle world record at the time and folks said they saw no difference. I was thrilled! As you mention about jacking rounds, a key is to learn is "lever - trigger, lever- trigger" Sounds so simple - until the BEEP!

Both will work well. Both can be shot with world-record speed, depends mostly on the shooter. The standard version is a little more forgiving with timing and smoothness/resistance. The super short works very well once properly timed and with your large hands should be easy to run. Ask around to check your pards guns to see how they feel to you. With larger hands you may be happy with either.

For some more good info and a better showing of the peak pressure & rise times of different powders: http://www.texas-mac.com/Black_Powder_Pressure_Curves_and_Bullet_Obturation.html The blackpowder has a faster peak but a much slower rise time in almost all cases, but the length of time (and rise) for the "high pressure" time is longer for smokeless So the impact of the pressure from smokeless is greater stress on the metal. (Note peak pressures and the Rise.) So to be safe, it is better to have a slightly "lighter load" for smokeless. That may give you almost the same bullet velocity, so I prefer a slightly slower velocity for the smokeless to save the guns.

Start by asking an experience 73 owner to help you become familiar with the gun. Study how to check the innards. Then take it apart carefully and clean and relube with a good lubricant - grease for the links, lever, etc. Most leave the elevator dry. How hard is it to cock the hammer? You want it fairly easy, but to hit with a nice snap. If needed, get the lighter hammer (main) spring to reduce wear. You can adjust the spring tension a fair amount. If you don't already have them, consider buying a couple good hollow-ground screw drivers to save wear on the screw heads. Consider buying a bit or tool for taking off the magazine cap. Also, take the end off the cap to the magazine tube. If it is hard, ask some pards to help using the tools they use. (If nothing else, put some oil to hopefully get on the threats a bit, then take a peach of a hacksaw blade with a good pair of pliers to turn the screw.) Then get a good rust preventative and apply to the inside of the tube and on the spring to reduce rust. Boshield (boat supplies) is a good rust preventative. Or Frog Lube or Seal 1 are excellent. EEzox is okay. Hornady One Shot is excellent. If nothing else, a good car wax. Some rave about many products but they haven't tested as well as what I mentioned. Check this a couple times a year or if you shoot in humid weather. That area is the most sensitive to rust. Frog Lube is a good rust preventative for all the outside of the gun. Seal 1 is as well and is a better choice for lubing (coating as an oil). (Frog lube can be weather dependent as a lube.)

I too get a kick out of the phrase, "make gun safe." As noted, if you don't write that, does it mean to do something unsafe? But as Creeker and others noted, the phrase has become "code" for allowing flexibility of where to place the empty gun.

He got it HONESTLY this time??!!! Congratulations!

I can do a letter for you! What kind of paper would you like?

Listed as sold out right now.

An amazing piece of machinery!

I agree with Creeker, Colorado & others. If you wish to have the shiniest brass inside and out, go the extra mile, take the extra time and do wet. Be sure to deprime either before or afterward cleaning. (I recommend before to have the cleanest pockets and not need to do any separate pocket cleaning.) I tried that over 30 years ago and found it to take much of my time than I wanted. Back then, I would watch tv, deprime with a lever press and then wet clean. If dry clean, I would clean all the pockets. But when I got serious about shooting more, I went back to my vibrator cleaner in the garage or out back and never looked back. The outside of my brass normally looks new. I use some form of crushed walnut (lizard little if found), with a little car wax included and cut up dryer sheets. I then unload the vibrator (outside) into a plain "bowl" separator that is held inside a plastic bag to contain any dust. After experimenting with probably 10 thousand rounds with cleaned pickets then MANY more thousands dirty with 380, 9mm, 38 Special, 357 Mag, 44, 45 and I've never had a problem after about 40 years of action, cowboy and target shooting - except a small but frustrating number when I didn't dry the pockets after wet cleaning. I refuse to have to deprime, then clean, then dry in separate processes. I used the Texas sun to dry the brass. And that was the most successful method I found with wet tumbling. So you can choose either method and it would work just fine. But one method will require drying time plus 5 to 10 seconds extra for each piece of brass.

We are praying for him to have a great recovery. Enjoyed talking and conversing with him through the years.

I got this from the website https://www.police1.com/police-products/firearms/training/articles/training-at-the-speed-of-a-fight-He1uwpDYM5bco9VU/

Yup, have you seen folks pull 4 and very quickly load and shoot them? Some can do about the same times with SXS or 97's.

But other than that. . . How was the play?

I don't have the WD-40 Special, but Frog Lube has worked well for me against rust.

Great to have ya back!