Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933

A while back someone asked if Glock ever made plastic magazines. For whatever reason the thread got locked but I found these in my junk box and thought I would answer. I bought one of the first Glocks imported into the US in 1986. At that time the magazines were plastic except for the feed lips which appear to be stainless steel. These magazines were junk. If you loaded them up to capacity they would not drop free of the gun. The springs were made from some material that would take a set after only a few loadings so you could only fire the top 9 or 10 rounds. The rest stuck down in the magazine. The magazine bodies themselves were made of some material that was not terribly durable. Here is a photo of those original two magazines. The plastic bodies on both have split. Glock corrected these problems and these old magazines are now relegated to history.

I am no longer familiar with who does SKB work east of the Mississippi. Go to the FAQs and look at the Cowboy Gunsmiths thread. Solicit some suggestions on who is ACTUALLY doing SKB work and check the list. You should only need to send the barrels and no FFL is needed. It can go USPS, UPS, FedEx as it is just a part and not a gun. As you have found out for a one shot repair the cost of materials is about what a lot of smiths would charge for the repair.

I do not post much any more but want to make sure you do not ruin your gun. Do not use silver solder as the heat required would melt the solder holding the barrels together and probably ruin your barrels. Welding is also not a good repair method. The barrels are soft soldered. For the repair use soft solder or at most use low temp Hi-Force 44 from Brownells. This is a fairly common problem with SKBs and Johnny Meadows, Boomstick or any of several other SASS smiths that work on SKBs should be able to fix it. In all candor Briley might not even do the job once they see SASS hacked barrels and funneled chambers. Plus the cost would be high. Here is the typical set-up. First photo is the separated lug. After the part is cleaned and retinned and the joint fluxed the lug is placed in the barrel. An iron rod is placed on either side of the lug and the barrels wrapped with soft iron wire. These act as heat sinks. Apply heat to the area and the solder will melt and flow. The repair usually does not require reblue as the temps are relatively low.

Was reading this thread and went over to the local Cabellas today. The gun I wanted was sold but they had this little fella. I have some of that modern made Brazilian .41 ammo so I figured what the hell and bought it. When I got home and checked it out more closely it was sort of a good news bad news situation. The barrel address was unusual as it was stamped into the side ribs rather than the top rib like most other Remingtons I have looked at and owned. Upon further inspection it dawned on me that it does not have an extractor on the left side. Turns out it is a very early 1st Model. That may be good news. However this means this one was made in the late 1860s of low quality steel/high quality iron. The Brazilian modern made smokeless ammo has more pressure than the old BP rounds so not safe to shoot in this early model. It is in better shape than the photos tend to show and was a hell of a deal for $190.00 plus tax. Everything works and the top hinge (a weak point in the originals) shows no sigh of cracking.

With a "Kirst Konversion 1851 signature series Colt Navy" the issue is not the forcing cone. 51 Navy bore diameter is .375". .38 Special and modern .38 Long Colt use .357/.358 bullets. You do not want hard .357 bullets rattling down a .375 bore. Most people use soft lead hollow base wadcutters that expand to fill the bore. There are also a few bullet makers that offer other bullet style hollow base .38s. Here are a couple of examples. https://www.precisiondelta.com/products/38-cal-148gr-hbwc-ml/ https://www.bearcreeksupplybullets.com/bulletselection https://www.hornady.com/bullets/handgun/38-cal-358-148-gr-hbwc#!/

Send you a PM. You need to firm up who is going to pick it up and to arrange for payment. Lots of Utah shooters already here.

Davey, I won't be at Fire and Ice. Have to save my energy for EOT. PM me when you can and I will send you my cell phone number. I am sure I will see you out there. I will be manning the Cowboy Trap at the Clay Target Center on Tuesday from noon to three if you are going to be around there.

I have bought a lot of guns over the years with the idea of doing more articles for the Chronicle. I am getting older and grumpier so a lot of these projects have fallen by the wayside. Here are two I will have available at EOT. To avoid hard feelings they go to the first person that posts HERE in the classifieds "I will take it." Cash only and I will not ship. First, this is a current new production Cimarron I bought a few months ago. All that has been done was to run a few dummy rounds through in the gun room to check for function. These later production 87s function very well! $550.00. Second is one of the last IAC 97s. This is one of the "CB" serial number guns and is the best. Again, I cycled a few dummies through it and it was very smooth and ejected fine and is certainly usable for SASS competition right out of the box. I have never shot it. I bought this at least seven or eight years ago. These CB 97s are the best of the Chinese 97s. $750.00 I will PM my phone number to the purchaser and arrange to meet at the range. CASH only. If you look at a gun when we meet and do not like it you do not have to take it. Remember a post that "I am interested in one of your guns" is not "I will take it." A PM asking questions is not "I will take it."

Well hell I have been cleaning out some cabinets trying to downsize and get rid of stuff I have not used in years. Look what I found way in the back. (Also found four one pound containers of Red Dot.) The Clays are unopened. The Trail Boss is filled to the brim which means I dumped a partial bottle into this one so it is over the normal 9 ounces.

Clays is not made in Australia. Made in Canada.

Trail boss is that a new category? Does that come before or after Cattle Baron?

Hell you even got the flyer!

I would go to YouTube and watch the 17 videos produced by Jim Finch AKA Longhunter. They average about ten minutes each. Watch them and observe the gear he uses and suggests.

The reproductions do not have blast shields on the front of the cylinder. The cylinder gap is directly over the base pin. They do not do well with heavy loads of BP.

I think you are mixing apples and oranges. The issue with the trigger not allowing the hammer to cock if you are touching it is not adjustable. It is inherent in the design. The only way around it is to do substantial modifcations to the internals of the gun and to completely change the way the cylinder locking bolt operates. The guy that use to do this work (Bill English from The Smith Shop) is long retired and I donot know anyone else that is doing it. The "passive" safety is the part I identified as part #656. That is also not adjustable. It can be removed but it cannot be adjusted. Shooting double duelist with stock Schofields can be a challenge as you must train yourself to keep your fingers off the triggers while cocking the guns.

Yes but very few. They are shot more for fun than serious competition. Most people use the factory grips as there are few aftermarket grips. Not many people work on them. You will have to shop around. Matter of personnel preference. The shorter barrels balance better. The longer barrels are muzzle heavy but look "cool." The trigger is not a safety. The fact that the hammer won't cock when you are touching the trigger is part of the design of the gun. On a Colt style revolver the cylinder locking bolt operates off a cam on the hammer. On the Scholfield the bolt operates off the trigger. There use to be a smith that would convert the S&W to operate off the hammer. He retired many years ago. About all you can do with them is lighten the springs but the built in hammer block safety makes that problematic as you will start getting misfires. If you want to improve the action you can remove the internal passive safety. The gun will then operate just like an original with a half-cock and full cock notch. The firing pin will protrude when it is at rest just like a Colt so you can only load five safely. You can then lighten the mainspring a bit. There are no aftermarket parts so you have to use and modify the original springs. The internal safety is part #656 on this drawing. You can go to VTI and look at the schematic and parts nomenclature.

When you go to the KY website this is what it says:

BOTH photos are of the small caliber carrier. One measurement is the top rails and the second is the hole the cartridge rides in.

Skinner make some mearurements of your carrier. The two dimensions that will tell you for sure what you have are shown in the photos. Your dimensons should be close to those shown. Your photo looks nothing like this carrier. The number in the second photo is not clear. It is .455".

+1 to Abilene. The carrier in the photo does not look like a small carrier. Optical illusion?

Another post where a vital piece of information is missing. Definitely the wrong carrier. So how did it mysteriously get into the wrong gun? Based on the information provided my guess is the OP cleaned the gun just before Land Run and installed the wrong carrier. This would also explain why the carrier is not fully dropping. It is hanging up on the extreme sideways round.

Absolutely correct. There are many Remlins with JM marked barrels.

Looks like the deadline has come and gone and nothing happened. Sort of like waiting for Y2K.