Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

There really NEEDS to be a slight bell put in the neck by the deprime sizing die. The expander button should have a slight step above the main part of the button that, when you screw down the decapping rod a little more, it puts the bell into the top 0.005" of the neck of the case. Flat base slugs are really hard to start into the neck without that bell. The bell amount should be enough that you can set the bullet on the expanded neck and just a couple of thousands of the bullet slides down into the neck just by weight of the bullet. Otherwise, the edge of the slug catchs the

Nope, they are Miroku's built almost to the BSS pattern. Which makes them a "lower price almost replacement" for a BSS. Good luck, GJ

Want one that lasts and is real reliable? Are you strong enough to handle an almost 8 pound gun? The Browning BSS. It's a mechanical trigger reset, so it can shoot as light a shell as you want. Will probably outlive you. And it won't break butt stocks. Good luck, GJ

The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 4th edition. It's got a complete instruction set for loading with lead bullets (or poly coated, which load mostly the same and with same recipes). More loading data that is usable with cast bullets than any of the other loading handbooks, which focus mostly on high-performance jacketed bullet loads. Here's one vendor with it in stock: https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/000159817004/cast-bullet-handbook-4th-edition And Yes, a local pard who loads and is willing to show you the ropes for a few hours could be "Gold Level Su

Have a 1972 vintage Blackhawk with the dual cylinder. Is still quite accurate with the .45 auto cylinder, and pretty good with .45 Colt cylinder. Yes, the auto cylinder is prone to collect lead when shooting lead bullets, right at the headspace ledge. Nothing that a stiff brush won't take out, though. Good luck, GJ

Rules have not changed on the sights section of Modern Category requirements. Dots on the sights are fine. Fluorescent light bar type sights are still illegal. See the rules. That grip safety on the Rem R1 is legal for Traditional. It's not a beavertail. Good luck, GJ

I tested the range of detection on at least 2 of my 3 RCBS LO Dies, and found if I calibrated to my target load (say 4.7 of powder), the low lock would occur at 20% below the target (about 3.7) and the high lock would occur at about 20% above target (5.6 grains). Sounds like that LOD may be dirty or malfunctioning on the high lock side, and not locking up. I catch the occasional case (1 out of 100 or so) that is a light load (3 to 3.5 grains). And I intentionally double charge a case about every 250 rounds or so, just to make sure it locks up on a double. I have had a few drops that I

Medical examiners get to rule cause of death. That's the way most jurisdictions handle death certificates. When that seems to be illogical to someone, I'd suggest they lobby to change the laws or the person in the examiner's position. Good luck, GJ

Well, individual guns need the gap that they need. Rugers are different in the barrel-to-cylinder gap required than are most of the SAA clones. The lube strategy being used with BP loads varies a lot from shooter to shooter. So, declaring that there is exactly one right answer, or that other answers are horse feathers, is not well supported by lots of shooters' practical experience. Adjust your guns to what you need, how often you want to have to clean off the cylinder face, and what lube you are wanting to use. Good luck, GJ

Love the RCBS powder lock-out die so much - use them on all of my Dillon 550s, even though it means I have to use a combination seater/crimp die. For me, yes, a case powder "alarm" (lock-out in my case) HAS saved me several no charge and even a few double-charge rounds over the last 10 years. Well worth it. good luck, GJ

Only Ginger still is alive from the 3 Hour Cruise.

Think you mean the last 1/4" the action WON'T fall open. That is where the hammer cockers are doing their work. The cocking levers need to be adjusted so it occurs earlier, easier and one side then the other cocks (to spread the effort out so both barrels don't cock at one time). And you need to ensure the action still has a spring buffer as the action stops, or you will slam the action parts hard enough to damage them when the action goes full open. That can be kinda tricky to get right. 1 - you don't have spare parts to put in if you damage a part (go to far with grinding m

It's an Eibar. Spanish double. Likely made 20 years ago or more. The trigger guard will have a "captive" screw (welded or soldered) at the front, on the part of the guard that meets up with the bottom of receiver. It will typically be fairly large diameter. Like about 3/8" As you rotate the trigger guard counter-clockwise, the trigger guard starts to easily clear the wood and lift away from the receiver. The first rotation is hard to perform without gouging either the stock or the receiver metal. Go slowly and carefully. This is a common design on side-by-sides.

EOT and I believe WR stage writers submit theirs for final approval before the shooter's handbooks go to print. Saves lots of headaches with trying to make sure the shooters all know exactly how to shoot the stages. And makes sure the layout of targets and the planned shooter movement fits with the fixed props that some stages have. If that is what you HAVE to do, then it's what you have to DO. Perhaps you could ask what safety policies they will be checking the stages against. Always easier if you know what they will allow and not allow before you turn in the stage

Try ten thousandths longer, not one hundred thousandths longer! As a decimal, that is 0.010" (not 0.100")

You won't really know that there is no screw under the front lip of the trigger guard until you try to rotate the trigger guard as if you are unscrewing it by rotating around the front tip of the guard.

Your first clue - there is no large hole in the butt stock where a "through bolt" is threaded into receiver. That means the butt stock is held onto the receiver by wood screws through the upper and lower tangs, usually. As RC says, push the break-open lever over to the right and a large screw head will appear there. CAREFULLY remove it. It is usually a hard screw to remove the first time. This is a great time to use a closely fitting screw driver tip and a small hand impact driver. Why not tell us the brand/model of gun you are working on? It helps a lot.

Try trading to another pard in your area who reloads, for LP primers. By being "longer" than LP primers, if you put them in a .45 Colt case, they stick up quite a bit above the case head, and will bind revolvers (keep them from rotating) and could fire out of battery in lever rifles. Good luck, GJ

Buying firearms in short inventory times (like now) usually leads me to not being very satisfied with what I end up with. Thus, during this time period, I'm not doing any firearms purchasing. You may be easier to please than I am. I really do believe we will recover back to being able to buy recreational firearms pretty quickly, once folks get back to work. Defense firearms - that may take a bit longer. Good luck, GJ

For BP with Rugers - My target has been 0.008" gap with cylinder shoved forward to take up slack. With good lube, that will usually let you run at least 6 stages before cylinder starts dragging. (For smokeless Rugers, more like 0.004") Good luck, GJ

No. But I HAVE seen several Uberti's with so much rust in the steel mag tube that the shooter could not continue the match because rounds would hang up in the tube. I believe that carbon-fiber tube mod was designed to solve both potential problems. Good luck, GJ

Fee-fie-faux-fannie. The hand doing the cocking has to remain in contact with the revolver or support hand. If it's "flying around," it's fanning. Good luck, GJ

The extended primer slide bearing plate for the Dillon 550. No more primer slide hangups! Thanks, UniqueTek! Good luck, GJ

A 4" high small-end target is REALLY hard to hit when the stand is set back at about 5 yards. (Closer invites lots of splatter hitting shooter and posse because the targets do not have the normal 10 degree forward tilt that forces most bullet splatter downward) The commercially-built tombstone rack used at EOT has targets that range from about 14" high, down to about 7" high. That can be cleaned quickly by good shooters when set at about 5 yards to the close end of rack. When set at 8 yards away, considerably fewer shooters can hit the smallest target. Good luc

I got very accurate drops of TiteGroup from my Dillon small charge bar (back when I used to run TG powder). Now I run WST, and get perhaps even better accuracy on those drops (both around 4 grains). Clean the bar and the funnel/drop area with isopropyl alcohol to make sure nothing greasy or sticky has built up in the measure or the expander/drop tube area. Make SURE you are getting full travel in both directions of the bar. It's easy to get the linkage out of adjustment, to have the link holding screws loosen, or not have a little bit of light oil in the linkage mechanism, and