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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. If the rim cut in the chamber has been ground out completely, and even worse, if the extractors have the same coning done, yes, the gun has lost it's headspace location! Shotguns headspace on the front surface of the shell rim being against the ledge in the chamber. Shells vary a little in outside rim diameter, and if the headspace ledge is cut out into a tapered cone, they try to stop when the OD of the rim reaches a tight spot in the tapered wall. So each hull, each brand, tries to stop at a different distance from the firing pins. And at some point, you get failures of the firing pins to set off primers! Leave the extractor alone when "coning" the breech. Leave at least some of the headspace ledge in the barrel - I never cut out more than half of the ledge depth. good luck, GJ
  2. Mostly locking lug / sliding lock bar fit.
  3. Play (if any) between the barrel breech and the vertical face of the action (where firing pins are located) is the slop which can make a gun quit firing. That play adds to head space, and eventually the firing pins cannot hit the primers enough to fire the shells. This is due to wear between the hinge at the front of the receiver, and the socket for the hinge in the barrel underlug.. Usually fixed by fitting an oversize hinge pin (they are all replaceable). This loosening of the hinge also sometimes shows up as a side-to-side flop of the barrels. Play in the lock down of the barrels - yes, that's mainly from the sliding action lock no longer snugly fitting the slots in the underbarrel lugs. Often fixed by either replacing the sliding lock bar or tightening the lug gap(s) in the underbarrel lug(s). Too much play here means recoil can cause the action to unlock without the top lever being worked. Lots of old and cheaply made guns develop play in the action. Some need to be fixed to prevent failures. good luck, GJ
  4. With our commonly very low pressure loads, there will be no noticeable difference between a .38 spl loaded to 1.45" or 1.50" OAL. You might find the 1.45" load has slightly higher velocity if you chronographed both. I have done the same kind of length tweaking in a 73 rifle and the shooter could not tell the difference in the "power" of the loads. Just make sure your gun(s) feed them with no hangups. And what's this "accuracy" you are concerned about? At 7 yards, or even 15? That you won't hit a 12" or 18" target? Now, if you were tuning up a load for 100 yards shooting - THEN I could see you being concerned. good luck, GJ
  5. Shell stop screw. Yep, those tiny screws loosen and fall out. Worth keeping blue loctite on if you want to keep the screw in. BTW - the only correct way to orient the gun to describe where parts are, is when the gun is held in firing position. Left is then on your left, and right is (who woulda thunk it) on your right. Top of the gun is up, etc. good luck, GJ
  6. THAT is an ELBOW carry. Not a trail carry, and not legal for SASS use. good luck, GJ
  7. It's all about the muzzle direction. A one-hand carry with the arm straight down and the muzzle within the 170 deg down range direction is perfectly safe. As you can see, not a lot of folks remember from hunter safety class what "Trail Carry" really is. good luck, GJ
  8. Long range black powder - about a 1 in 20 or 1 in 30 slug (tin to lead) Long range smokeless - whatever the gun shoots best, and does not lead the barrel with your load and lubes. Since each gun has it's own accuracy response to hardness and powder and lube, it's really hard to tell you one answer, because even if it's right for my gun , it quite likely will be wrong for each of yours. For smokeless less than 2000 FPS I often start with a Brinnell Hardness of 20 (wheel weights with maybe 10% linotype added) and work from there. Usually shooting with gas checks. Bullet diameter 0.001" larger than groove diameter in YOUR barrel (so slug it). With the wide spread use of HiTek poly coating, hardness counts less than it used to when proper hardness of a lubed lead alloy slug helped with leading control. And, then there 's heat treating of lead bullets, too, to increase hardness. There may be some silver-colored bullets, but in long range shooting there are NO "silver bullets" that are best for every gun/cartridge/loading. If you want to go down a deep rabbit hole, start reading this forum: https://castboolits.gunloads.com/ or this one: https://www.artfulbullet.com/index.php#discussions.12 good luck, GJ
  9. When you don't standardize parts machining to a well documented blueprint, holding tight tolerances in parts, as Eli Whitney developed back about 1845, then you have to do some part swapping and hand fitting just to get the parts into the gun during factory assembly. Brazilian and Pakistani firearms illustrate this manufacturing nightmare very often. Chinese guns used to have this nature, too. To our detriment, they at least learned a Whitney approach. good luck, GJ
  10. And you may not realize I trust almost nothing self-published on YT.
  11. Hammer forging, if the mandrel has some circumferential defects in the surface, could make those marks all the way around the lands and grooves. Was not aware Ruger was using hammer forged revolver barrels. OP may just have to live with those minor divots in the barrel. Thanks, GJ
  12. They will if they want to sell me one. I carry a borelight and a cleaning kit into gun stores. One in Mesa AZ got a big kick of me taking a M1 Garand down to do a 5 minute inspection before money changed hands. good luck, GJ
  13. There is no machine that makes a circular mark across both the lands and the grooves of a barrel at the same spot in the barrel. The bore (what becomes the lands) is cut with a deep hole drill and, if lucky, is precision reamed after that. Those give mostly circular marks on the lands. But the grooves are cut or swaged with a broaching type tool that runs lengthwise down the barrel, with a twist of the cutting head to give the twist rate. That tooling leaves just lengthwise marks, and sometimes chatter marks across the grooves, but only in the grooves. So, completely circular rings in the barrel on both the lands and grooves do not come from any of the cutting operations that Ruger would perform. Look at the rings - they cross both the lands AND the grooves at the same exact spot down the barrel. good luck, GJ
  14. The new Ruger handguns I have bought come with 2 (TWO) fired cases each. Hardly enough to leave that much fouling. And certainly nothing that would put circular defects or rings in both the lands and grooves of a barrel. Even if Ruger retains 2 or 3 cases (which they have never said they do), that is not enough in my experience to foul a barrel that badly. And I am even more certain that Ruger does not provide fired cases to individual states' Crime Forensics departments without evidence that a crime has been committed. (That is why police are SO dedicated to picking up any fired cases from any crime scene - they have to get their own cases.) good luck, GJ
  15. Those show very clearly that the color deposited on the lands is copper (gilding metal ) fouling! Keep copies of all your photos shown so far. The gun dealer should be smart enough to realize you know what you are talking about, but you may have to double down in this age of denying of all responsibility in any thing that goes wrong. good luck, GJ
  16. Guns are made from 410 series stainless steel. This family of alloys CAN rust. As can a family of cheaper knife blades, 440 SS. The SS alloys folks are more used to, like 316 SS, are much more resistant to rust. The word stainless or stain-resistant is quite accurate. Thinking that means stain proof or rust proof, is wrong. good luck, GJ
  17. Looks to me from the grainy photos that this is copper fouling on the lands from jacketed rounds already fired. The very few reddish streaks that occur in the grooves of the barrel run lengthwise down the barrel. Rust would not create a uniform narrow streak in the middle of a groove. That copper fouling on the lands would not concern me, in itself. But I doubt Ruger would have shipped the gun without cleaning the fouling out of the barrel! This gun has been shot and is not new. The "rings" are not what would be expected on a new barrel, for sure. Because these marks are uniformly occurring on both the groove and the land sections of the barrel, this could not have been a manufacturing defect, most likely, but was caused by squibbed (stuck) bullets "shot into" with regular power loads fired behind the stuck bullets. If they are deep-enough rings to hurt accuracy, you would feel it if you pushed a tight cleaning patch both directions in the barrel. The cleaning rod would jump forward slightly at some points in the stroke - an uneven amount of pressure needed to move the cleaning rod and patch. If you indeed have rings which moved the barrel metal out in several spots, this would also say this was not a NEW gun, and more importantly, that a customer abused the gun and ringed the barrel, then returned it to the gun shop. That certainly should be remedied by the seller (or manufacturer if needed) - provide an actual new gun to replace this used one. I'd suggest, though, that you not clean the gun or do any other work on it until you get action from the gun dealer, or perhaps Ruger themselves. good luck, GJ
  18. Then professional tuning the Uberti probably will do the same. GJ
  19. The poster has already established HIS Stoeger has way more lever travel required to open it than normal.. If he just takes the travel (opening angle) back to what the factory standard angle is, and still has lots of engagement, he may have no problem with it opening on recoil. Any of this work is risky, yes, but the OP has already shown us that he has the metal working skills to understand and fix the lock opening problem should it occur. And that he knows how to test for tendencies of the action to open on firing. This is not something I would recommend for a first-time tuner to attempt. My GUESS is that the factory did not properly fit the sliding lock engagement properly when they built it (leaving too much metal engagement). good luck, GJ
  20. Since you seem new to the game, I'd advise you find a good cowboy gunsmith. You don't have enough info to really tell you "Oh, wave this magic wand and repeat this phrase 3 times" Here's some good gunsmiths in the FAQ: SASS gunsmiths good luck, GJ No way that fixed a lockup of the trigger or cylinder. GJ
  21. Take a look at the sliding bar in the barrel locking section. Two cross bars there, one engages the front and the other the back lug on the barrel. Remove some metal from the front edge of the bar that "lets go" of it's barrel lug last - that is the one causing the long travel. Go slow, maybe three steps of removing metal and reassembly and test firing it each time with a factory level load. You don't want to see the action opening after a round is shot. Don't taper the top or bottom of the lock slide - that would just encourage recoil to auto-open the sliding lock. Realize that Stoeger will not factory repair the gun after you have done serious modification to it. Not that Stoeger/Boito ever does much work on their guns anyway, though. With a bent top lever and lightened spring, sounds like that horse is already out of the barn. good luck, GJ
  22. I've got a 1970 made Mossberg 500 shotgun, 12 gauge 3" magnum, running now 50 years, aluminum receiver (but the action locks into a steel barrel extension). Runs as smooth and tight as it ever did. With a proper design, aluminum works fine in a receiver - EXCEPT for the fact that scratches, modifications, damage usually means a paint/coating of the repair since you can't cold or hot blue it. At least the lever (a part that works hard) is steel. If AL receiver lets Winchester (probably Miroku) make a gun that can compete price wise with a Henry with an aluminum frame, so be it. good luck, GJ
  23. Most cast bullet loads are going to be low enough pressure to still work fine even in a low serial number Springfield. 13 grains of Red Dot and a 150 to 180 grain cast bullet will be a very low pressure load, and pretty accurate for at least a 100 yard target, and if the barrel is in good shape, 200 yards. I have a 1918 made 1903 model, which is in the serial numbers above the "brittle heat treat" problem, that I shoot with much warmer cast bullet loads than that 13 grain load. I'd bet that an email to the CMP organization down in Anniston AL would get you a lot of information about the limits of your particular gun. Provide them the serial number and and the numbers and markings off the receiver and barrel. The info cited just above from the CMP is the best case recommendation for the 1903 receivers that are not in the brittle receiver heat treat group. There are lower pressure limits for the "possibly brittle" guns. good luck, GJ
  24. That Colt series 80 is perfectly fine (legal) for Wild Bunch.  It works in Traditional-based categories (one handed) really well.  And although it is not loaded with any modern features, it can certainly be used in Modern-based categories. too.

     

    good luck, GJ

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