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Need advice; 1851 Navy with conversion cylinder


Fallon Kid
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Need advice on 1851 Navy (Pietta) 36 cal.

Background: Our club will be hosting BP State Championships next year and am excited. My BP experience is limited but not a novice. Also I can better utilize my smokeless and BP powders. I have Howell conversion cylinders and std 38 spec brass. Bullets are hollow base wad cutters 148 gn .358 dia, which I cast.  I’m using Alliant Black MZ

My saga: Went to range today to see how many load and fire bullets one gun could do before it starts to foul up and get sluggish. I did 32 rounds before cylinder started to get hard to rotate.

Question 1: Is this normal or about right for rounds fired for a BP cartridge?

Question 2: I have ample supply of Grafs and Schuetzen  2ff/3ff. Would that be better choice and if so, how would I lube. Lubed cookie? Fiber wad and lube hollow base of bullet?

Not much info out there on 38cal BPCR bullets being shot out of 36cal percussion cap pistol.

My Logic for using MZ. First off I have ‘Brandon Brain Cavity’ of it and Alliant web site states “do not use lube as MZ creates its own lube’

Thanks in advance Fallon Kid

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Depending on the weather that number is about right. 

 

When I was shooting C&B 58s I pulled the cylinders wiped the faces down with a damp cloth. I also cleaned the base pin of any fouling and relube it with Mobil 1 full synthetic. I did this every stage even if the guns were working perfectly.

When I owned a pair of 75 Remington Outlaws in 38 special, I treated them the same way.

 

For real BP I have found little difference between FFg and FFFg when it comes to CAS. With APP/BlackMZ use 3F. 2F is too coarse.

 

Black MZ is like APP and will make its own lube. I shoot powder coated bullets with APP all the time with no issues.

 

When shooting real BP.

If the bullets are lubed with a BP compatible lube you are good to go in your pistols.

If shooting powder coated bullets, put a small amount of lube on the nose of the bullet when loading the pistol. Don't gob it on; a little dab is all you need.

Edited by Sedalia Dave
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Thank You Dave. You have flipped on a light in my old salt water infested brain. Powder coat it is. I appreciate your experience and thanks again. Jerry

 

"HELP. I ordered some parts for my Dillon 1050. I've fallen in debt and can't get up" -Me, doing what I love

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Try a little lube in front of the bullet on that first shot or so.  Tends to deposit lube in the nooks and crannies instead of fouling.  I usually smear a little bore butter inside the cylinder before the first stage and can make 4-5 stages easily,

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The fouling with a Conversion Cylinder is going to very dependent on the Barrel to Cylinder Gap.  Smaller Gap, less fouling.   Wider gap, more fouling.  I know that sounds backwards but that is how it works.

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Howdy Pard

 

My compliments and sincere admiration for you stalwart types who observe style and tradition and use the “Holy Black”. Tried it in my replica 1860 Army and Ruger Old Army. Oh, it was fun and authentic … but I don’t have your fortitude …  I hated the black-powder cleanup.

 

For both I bot Howell cartridge-conversion cylinders for 45 Colt and have enjoyed the “H” out of them. The instructions state that smokeless powder can be used but only with cowboy loads and to studiously avoid anything hotter. Sounds like a plan to me.

 

Glad there are those who follow tradition. You set a good example for those such as I who take the easy way out.

 

Nonetheless, whether smokeless or black is used, those irons are a real hoot to shoot.

 

Keep on the sunny side 

 

Adios

 

Fort Reno Kid 

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Y’all make me proud to be part of such a nice posse.   Talking out of turn here but I have yet to run into anyone with a SASS number that is not decent and honest and with whom I trust. I thank you each and everyone.

Was just out dropping some HBWC 38’s and not an easy thing to do. I have an NOE mold and got so frustrated with the hanging up thing I resorted to spraying some B’Laster (dry graphite spray)  and works better that smoking. It is what is recommended for the drop lip on my shot maker and maker will not work unless lip it is coated with B’Laster.  Picked up a few suggestions learning to use this mold and much to detailed to spell out here but if interested IM for my number.

“That’s all folks”  Porky Pig - 1951

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I use Black MZ in my .45 Colt rifle and pistols and I usually get 6 stages from my pistols but need to squirt a little mouse milk or PAM in the rifle action after 3 or 4 stages to ensure the bolt doesn't bind. Real Black needs it on the pistols and rifle a little more often. 

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