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Fort Reno Kid

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Everything posted by Fort Reno Kid

  1. BTT Want to run this by one more time in the event there may be a Pard out there with some 25-20 to swap for my 32-20 brass. It’s been suggested that the brass can be sized down to 25-20. True dat ... but even with special forming dies ... which I don’t have ... the “mortality rate” of ruined brass can be significant. In the event there is no response, I’ll close the post and post in a different forum. Thanks and Adios Fort Reno Kid
  2. Howdy Pards I have 48 pieces of 32-20WCF brass, all head stamped R-P, that I’ll trade for an equal number of 25-20WCF brass. A shootin’ buddy found these on a range. Don’t know if they’re 1-X fired ... all appear to be in good condition ... looks as if someone bot em, shot em, and left em. I’ve decapped em and run em thru the tumbler to improve their appearance. PM me if interested in a swap, brass for brass, or email me at fortrenokid@sbcglobal.net Adios Fort Reno Kid
  3. Hey Cemetery Was genuinely surprised that your efforts to sell some new 25-20 brass did not receive a response ... particularly since it’s new brass and not, like so much that I’ve seen advertised and most of mine: old and reloaded several times. No foolin’, in the last 2 or 3 years I’ve made acquaintance with 4 — serious! 4 — shooters who’d acquired 25-20’s. The irons were a Remington pump and 3 Model 92’s. They were scrounging for ammo and components. I’ve contacted Starline several times urging them to add 25-20 to their line and to Hornady urging them to add a 25-20 LeverRevolution to their line. For my efforts? Butkus! No response whatever. An article in a recent gun magazine detailed the author’s acquisition of Model 92 and his efforts to obtain brass. He wound up buying 32-20 brass (the parent case of the 25-20) from Starline and using forming dies to neck the brass down to 25-20. He had about an 80% success rate. There are a considerable number of 25-20’s out there — human owners wear out and die but those old shootin’ irons seem to go on forever— and it’s hard to believe the new owners don’t need reloading components. My best recommendation to you would be periodically enter posts advertising your brass. Surely there’s someone ... maybe a lot of someone’s ... who need that brass. I’d be interested but I have a sufficient supply and I’m going to wear out a lot sooner than my iron and it’s reloading components. Keep the sunny side up! Adios Fort Reno Kid PS. Can’t resist thinking that the highest and best use of King Medallion’s 218 Bee brass would be for someone with a 218 Bee rifle ... but that’s a thot for another day.
  4. BTT Just a thot. This might be of interest to those owning Winchester or Marlin lever guns chambered in 25-20 WCF. 25-20 brass is hard to find. I have enough for my Model 92, altho it’s getting on in age, but other 25-20 owners have bugged me something fierce to part with some brass. The parent case for the 218 Bee is ... Ta Dah ... the 25-20 WCF. A 218 Bee is really nothing more than the original 25-20 necked down to 22 caliber. It would be a relatively simple matter to fireform the 218 Bee brass to 25-20. IMHO the price is fair, particularly in comparison to new 25-20 brass ... when it can be found. Just my 2 cents. Fort Reno Kid
  5. BTT for a great-lookin’ shootin’ iron. Just my 2 cents. If anybody is contemplating acquiring this iron, I have the octagon-barrel rifle version of the 1866. The 1866’s are drop-dead gorgeous and shoot well. Put a tang aperture sight on one and they’ll do even better. Price for this one looks good too: check out the price for a new one from DGW’s or Cabellas’ site! Side note. I’ve read more than a few articles that dispute the Winchester Model I873 being the “Gun that won the west”. Their reasoning: the rifle’s debut was 1873 and it took a few years for it to achieve widespread distribution, by which time the Indian Wars were winding down to their grim finale and the days of open range coming to an end. Their conclusion, and IMHO concur, was that it was the Spencer Carbine, 1860 Henry, and 1866 Winchester that did the hard work and heavy lifting of the winning of the West. I’m a fan of western movies and TV shows and can’t help but grimace when I see 1892 Winchester’s in the 1860’s to 1880’s time frame. What a pleasure to see western shows of more recent vintage with weapons that are correct for the period. Again, just MHO but modern-replica 1860’s, 1866’s, Spencer’s, and yes, the 1873’s really enable us modern-day cowboys to achieve a considerable degree of authenticity. Adios Fort Reno Kid
  6. Just a thot for those who might have an interest. There are a number of conversion cylinders available -- I use Howell's; I know others who swear by Kirst -- that economically double the usefulness of a Ruger Old Army ... or for that matter, other percussion pistols as well. I find that I use my ROA lots more now that I have the cartridge conversion and, with the quick switch of a cylinder, it's back to use as a cap 'n' ball pistol. Just my 2 cents worth. Adios Fort Reno Kid
  7. WTS a set of RCBS 45LC reloading dies. These are well used -- I'm sure I've reloaded thousands of 45LC's on 'em -- but in good working order. These are tough dies; they'll wear out a bunch of humans before they finally give up the ghost. The resizing die is carbide lined so no need to lube cases before full-length resizing. Comes in the RCBS green plastic box (label missing as I ran the box thru the dishwasher to rid it of accumulated oil and bullet lube) and comes with the correct #11 shell holder. What's wrong with 'em? Nothing really. I got plenty of good use out of 'em but, with the passage of time, find that I do most of my reloading on Lee dies and prefer 'em to RCBS so I finally bot a set of Lee dies and now the RCBS dies are redundant to my needs. In the interest of full disclosure, let me pass on two objections/irritations I have to 'em. The decapping pins break more than I like. They're cheap if ordered from Brownells but it's still an irritation to change 'em. The resizing die does have a new decapping pin in it. Also, these dies do not have a crimp function (as Lee dies do) so, after completing the reloading process, I jerry-rigged my 45ACP dies to put a crimp on the cartridges. Again, not all that much additional time to crimp 'em but there was the irritation factor. Price is $25 which includes shipping. No need to go to the hassle of a money order; your personal check will be fine with me. The SASS PM sometimes plays games with me so prob easier to contact me by email, fortrenokid@sbcglobal.net. Adios Fort Reno Kid Eat when you can, Sleep when you can. S@#t when you can. The opportunity may not come around for a long time. If ever. Combat pay is a flawed concept. Having all your body parts intact and functioning at the end of the day, beats the alternative. The madness of war can extract a heavy toll. Please have exact change.
  8. another bump. Can't believe someone hasn't snatched this drop-dead gorgeous shootin' iron. Fort Reno Kid
  9. Howdy Pit Bull You've gotten lots of good feedback from the other Pards. Couple of thots for ya that will pretty much mirror and reinforce the other advice you've gotten. There's lots of 44-40 brass out there ... the caliber's been around since 1873. IMHO the Rem and Win brass are very thin and need to be loaded slow and easy to keep from crumpling them. My brass is predominately Rem and Win and, as long as I go slow and steady, rarely have issues with damaged cases. Have seen LOTS of commentary on this and other sites to the effect that Starline brass is heavier and less prone to damaging during the reloading process. Were I to be starting out from scratch to load 44-40 I'd be inclined to use Stariine brass. I use Lee dies -- nothing magic about 'em; just like 'em; other brands will do fine ... and like the fact that their bullet-seating die has both a seating function and a roll-crimp function. The 44-40 has a short neck and doesn't always get a good "grip" on a bullet. I prefer a bullet with a crimping groove and to roll crimp the loaded round. That way the reloads are lots less likely to "accordion" on ya when you fill the tubular magazine. Lots of good loading data out there. My preference is Unique, Bullseye, and Titegroup ... but there's lots of good powders out there and my experience has been that the 44-40 is very forgiving of whatever powder you want to use. A cautionary note: in modern-made 1892's and Marlins, the 44-40 can be loaded to some very powerful levels ... almost to 44 Mag levels if you're into hunting deer or feral pigs ... but be ever so careful not to use 'em in an older rifle or non-Ruger pistol. Oh yes, the 44-40 is a great "double duty round for those who like to shoot the same cartridge in both rifle and pistol ... just avoid hot loads in pistols. My 44-40 is a period Winchester 73 of 1890's vintage. I still use it in CAS matches and use mild loads to treat the old dog with respect. Well ... didn't mean to ramble so. Bet you'll find your 44-40 reloading and subsequent shooting to be fun and rewarding. Happy Trails Fort Reno Kid
  10. Just a thot for those that might be contemplating the purchase of this pistol, If 1920's vintage it should be safe for smokeless ammo but, of course, have a gunsmith check it first. I've read various sources that ammo is diificult , at best, to find and very expensive when it can be found. Be aware that Dixie Gun Works sells a brass cartridge insert that enables one to fire a 41 rimfire using 22 rimfire blanks, black powder, and a 41 caliber round ball. Little slow to work but they are fun. I use similar brass cartridge inserts for a 32 rimfire pistol and, yes, it's fun! Just my 2 cents. Fort Reno Kid
  11. Just my 2 cents. I bot one of those a few years back and have rejoiced ever since. In addition to being drop-dead gorgeous and in a caliber I reload and love, mine has surprised the "H" out of me with its accuracy potential. In addition to being authentic as "H" for Cowboy Action Shooting, a local silhouette club has a cowboy carbine match (40, 60, 77, and 100 meters) and that rifle (with tang sight added) is far more up to the task than its loose-operator-headspace owner. Fort Reno Kid
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