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Circuit Rider Jeff

Have I been fooling myself? Brass or steel

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Ok so I was just reading some shotgun stuff and the topic of brass or steel came up in regards to shotgun shells. I've been using rem premium 20g or the american clay and field and decided to do a magnet test because I'm always thinking to only use brass or the shells will stick in my side x side. So both work great and fly right out, but I found that only the premium are truly brass!!!! Soooo does anybody else use steel bases without issues? Field and Stream has discontinued my awesome deals so I'm searching again for the deal on " low brass" err colored steel fake brass.

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No problems with steel bases in my Stoeger, Husqvarna, or TTN.

The only thing that sticks in the chambers is when I use shells with 6 point crimps.

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Estate 1 0z 1180 fps at wally world @ about $5.50

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Lots of folks use steel bases and don't have problems in doubles.

 

Lots of folks have real shucking problems in their doubles.

 

If you don't have problems, rejoice.    If you don't believe some folks have problems after they report that they have problems, well, that's a problem right there.   :lol:

 

Keep looking for low prices, though.   Sometimes they pop up in unusual places.  We really don't shoot enough shotgun shells for price differences between cheap and premium to be a major factor in the overall cost of cowboy shooting.  And often the premium shells can make a difference between a first and a third in match or category.   More matches that were going well almost to the end are lost with shotgun problems than anything else, from my experience.

 

Good luck, GJ  

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Just bought Rem STS light target at Walmart for $7 per box today   GW

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Its not that they are steel or brass or alunimum. Its how the hull is constructed, how thick is the metal, what alloy is it made of, what is the specific composition of the plastic. 

 

All makers periodically will have lot numbers of shell that are problematic for CAS but will work fine in any other application.

 

I have 4+ cases of Herters Estate shells that I cannot use for CAS. About 1/2 of each box will not shuck from a SXS and aout 2/3rs of those the extractors on my 1887 are not strong enough to extract. I have to use a dowell rod to remove them from my 87. Every time I unseat the primer before the hull will begin to move. I bought them about 5 years ago. After the fact I was told by a lot of shooters to avoid them.  5 years later shooters are having good luck with them.

 

Switched to Federal Top Guns. Had excellent results for 3 years. Then I ran into a bunch where 2 or 3 from every box stick. The heads are slightly deformed. Easily corrected with a MEC SuperSizer.  Bought some more 18 months later and have no issues with them.

 

Lots of people have 2 or 3 Win AA shells per box that are swelled and will not drop into their SG chambers.  Yet people still buy them.

 

Remington Gun Clubs appear to work well as do Remington STS and Nitro hulls.

 

I have never seen a box Winchester XX white box shells where 3/4 of the box failed to shuck from a SXS.

 

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My choice is Remington Gun Club, however, I can use the Herter's shells too, and they are a six crimp. I've had more of the WW Low recoil shells that were over sized than ANY other shell. It is a FACT, the most stuck hulls are the result of the open crimp. The shell is hanging up at the Crimp end of the shell, NOT the base end. Polish the heck out of the forcing cone area at the end of the chamber, and you ought to get good results. I recommend using a shotgun shell sizing tube on every shell that you plan to shoot in any big match. I can't say that I never have a stuck hull, but it is very rare.... of course after all the polishing I might be shooting an 11 gauge! :wacko:

 

Snakebite

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