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SKB is getting loose, needs new locking lug


Waco Jim

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I have an SKB 200e which is beginning to get a little loose and the top lever is past center on the tang. The gun does not come open when firing but it may at some point in the future as it gets more loose. It does rattle to a small degree when you shake it due to an incomplete lockup. While some parts are available for these guns I have not found anyone with a replacement OEM locking lug. It would seem the only alternative is adding some material by welding to the locking lug and re-fitting. My question is who can do this work or where can I find a new OEM lug?

 

Waco Jim

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JB,

Thanks for the tip. I had called before for this part using the part number in the drawing and it was not available. I called again today and maybe someone else answered the phone, but he told me the part number shown has been superceded and they did have them in stock. I ordered two since I have a pair of 200e's. I also ordered spare hammer springs and a few other springs for spares so I should be good for way down the road. If anyone is interested the new part number for the locking lug for 12 ga SXS is: 605130. This is not a drop in part and will need fitting by a gunsmith.

 

WJ

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Waco your shotgun is broken, there is no hope for it. You should donate it to me so that when my SKB has problems they can be fixed.

 

I would have another recommendation for Roughneck Rod. He did my SKB, I have no complaints.

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Waco your shotgun is broken, there is no hope for it. You should donate it to me so that when my SKB has problems they can be fixed.

 

 

 

There's a match tomorrow at Brocks Gap, why don't you come down and join us and I'll let you hold my SKB if you promise to give it back. What the heck.......I'll even let you shoot it. :)

 

WJ

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This is not a drop in part and will need fitting by a gunsmith.

 

Jim, if it was me, I would send the stripped SKB to SKB and let their gunsmith do the work. I was pleased with the work done and turn around time on a vintage 1967 Ithaca M500 that had short firing pins and they had the wrench to remove them to install the longer pins, pin springs and a new set of hammer springs. The only shells the short pins would ignite were ACTIV's Price was reasonable too

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JB, DO you think they would work on a SXS this old? This one has been "Cowboyed" with the chamber mouth flared, springs lightened, top lever short stroked, safety removed, do you think they would want to touch it in this condition? They may consider it an unsafe gun.

 

WJ

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With two suggestions about the hinge-pin being the culprit here, I will say I don't have a lot of experience with SKB's but I do have quite a bit of experience with what I would describe as "High Volume" shotguns such as might be found on a trap, skeet, or sporting clays range. With all due respect to the pards who posted to my topic, here's where I'm coming from on this subject. In my experience with the top end guns typically found in the hands of the high volume shooter, namely Perrazi, Krieghoff, the hinge pin will typically outlast the locking lug on a three to one basis. Unless, of course, the gun was improperly lubed. or cleaned. The shotguns I have named are both designed for the locking lug to be a replaceable item and as such during the heat treating process is the softer of the two parts, the hinge pin or the barrel lugs. In other words the locking lug on these guns which are designed to be rebuilt and last for a million rounds is the first to wear.

 

Of these high end guns I have named I have owned quite a few over the 40 plus year I've shot clay targets and I've had the locking lugs replaced on two Perazzi shotguns and never had the hinge pin replaced on any break open gun. Keep in mind I'm describing guns which are designed to be rebuilt. The SKB I would think would be similar to the Browning or Winchester 101 varity, both made in Japan as is the SKB.

 

It has been my observation over the years that that high volume shotgunners who when closing their SXS or O&U will do so by holding the lever over and gently closing the action will experience at least twice the life of the locking lug over the shooter who snaps the gun closed. If you think about the spring loaded locking lug and the tapered surface which mates into the barrel lugs which are also tapered and with the force of the spring and the hammering which occurs when the locking lug slams into contact with the barrel lugs. This is moving metal much like a hammer and chisel. Cowboy action shooters slam the action closed just by the nature of the game, unlike a trap shooter or skeet shooter who can gently close the action avoiding the slamming and hammering of the lugs.

 

The hinge pin does not receive the hammer action of the lugs because the hinge pin is mated up in contact with the barrel hinge lug at all times. A cowboy action shooter will open and close his gun about 25 times on a typical 5 stage one day match where as a trap shooter will open and close his gun 300 times in a daily match so which gun will receive the most hinge pin wear.

 

I offer up this opinion with the though of stirring a debate on the subject.

 

WJ

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...do you think they would want to touch it in this condition? They may consider it an unsafe gun.

Jim, only one way to find out - call them.

Heck, the smith might say - Look at all the 'things' them CAS shoters do to a fine shotgun. And poking around inside, heck they didn't do this or that to make it run better. Call the customer for his approval! :)

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Friend Don't kno who set up your gun but I doubt he ground any on tha pin. Meaning tha locking lug probably has been, maybe more than it should. I'm replying for a friend whos fixed several high end SXS that were loose as a goose.

 

 

RRR

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If the rattle is side to side it is the hinge pin and barrel engagement that has more than likely been over polished when smithed. Some smiths polish area thinking it will make the gun feel more desirable. I've seen brand new SKB's come back from the smith and rattle back and forth like crazy. Up and down movement is the lug which has been over smithed. I've had a hand of them I've had a laser welder put 3-5 thousandths of weld on the locking surface of the lug and tighten it back up. I use a laser welder because of its precision and he is not heating the whole part up. Briley might be able to help you. Briley is usually who I send people to when these loosely goosey SKB's bust bottom lug off the barrel. Welding this spot is not as strong as a good solder job.

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If the hinge pin is worn would the forearm be loose? The forearm iron act as a wedge when force is applied and the forearm snaps in loc position against the barrels. This wedge action pulls the barrels forward against the hinge pin and the barrel hinge pin lug and the forearm iron fills the space or distance between the rear of the forearn lock lug on the barrel and the radius on the front of the receiver. So it would seem to me the forearm would be loose under these circumstances.

 

I'm not a gunsmith but I do like to tinker with my guns but of the two 200s SKB's that I own they were both done by the same smith, whom I have total confidence in and would not hesitate to have him work on another SKB. I believe the proper place to ease the effort on opening and closing a SXS or any break open breach gun for that matter is at the forearm iron contact point where the barrel the barrel forearm lug and the forearm iron makes contact. Removing a small of metal from the forearm and after trial fitting should smooth up the action. If in the future it is desired that this removal of metal has served it's purpose and in fact now need to be reversed, then the forearm iron can be welded to restore the metal removed.

 

It seems to me that if the top locking lever is past center to the left on the tang and appears to be bottomed out in it's travel, then my money is on the locking lug as the culprit. I understand that the mods we make on these SXS's with the ejector hammers removed, for example, and when we slam the gun open, puts stress on the barrel hinge pin lug beyond the designers intentions. Many SXS guns will stretch in this area fairly quickly which is why I went away from Stoeger fairly quickly. The SKB is beefier in this area and should hold up better.

 

Fortunately I have two new replacement locking lugs on the way via USPS so we'll see how this plays out.

 

WJ

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Sounds like the locking bar is worn out. I doubt the barrel lug is the culprit. The locking bar also dictates the top lever position. The bar will require quite a bit of fitting as they are pretty rough. It needs to be polished to look like a 57 Chevy bumper when sized correctly for a smooth release. I always worked my way up to 600 grit on the table belt sander.Rod can definitely do this work.

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Sounds like the locking bar is worn out. I doubt the barrel lug is the culprit. The locking bar also dictates the top lever position. The bar will require quite a bit of fitting as they are pretty rough. It needs to be polished to look like a 57 Chevy bumper when sized correctly for a smooth release. I always worked my way up to 600 grit on the table belt sander.Rod can definitely do this work.

 

I would expect the replacement bars to be over-size for correct fitting to the side rails in the receiver and the barrel lugs. I have a pair of lugs on order from SKB and I expect their arrival next week. Once I get them I plan to give Rod a call.

 

WJ

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