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Cartridge conversion choices


Blue Steel Duke

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Well, I've decided I want an open top cartridge conversion of some sort and I've been looking at the 1851 Navy and the '72 open top. I've pretty much decided on the '51 in .38 special, but my question was regarding the Taylor version. Is this a Uberti that's been slicked up, or are they just a middle man for Uberti?

 

BSD

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Howdy Duke. I bought my Uberti Open Tops from Taylors and they were just stock. I'm not aware that Taylors sells any slicked up pistols except the Smoke Wagons.

 

BTW, my open tops never ran right (kept locking up) until sending them off to Alan Harton for an action job. That was even after 2 warranty repairs by Taylors. Haven't had any issues since.

 

Good luck!

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Pardon another question gents, but on the Uberti web page the grip for the '72 open top appears to be larger than the '51 Navy. Is this true?

 

BSD

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Pardon another question gents, but on the Uberti web page the grip for the '72 open top appears to be larger than the '51 Navy. Is this true?

 

BSD

 

The '72 open tops came out in an "early version" with Navy sized brass grip frames and a "later version" with Army sized steel grip frames. Richards/Mason conversions were done to 1851 Navy's and 1860 Army's with original sized grip frames about the same time (1871-1872) as the '71 and '72 "open tops" were being manufactured.

 

Confused yet? :wacko:

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The '72 open tops came out in an "early version" with Navy sized brass grip frames and a "later version" with Army sized steel grip frames. Richards/Mason conversions were done to 1851 Navy's and 1860 Army's with original sized grip frames about the same time (1871-1872) as the '71 and '72 "open tops" were being manufactured.

 

Confused yet? :wacko:

Yep :lol:

 

So the later version does have bigger grips?

 

BSD

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Yep :lol:

 

So the later version does have bigger grips?

 

BSD

 

Yup!

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I have 3 open tops.A 51 RM,a 60 Army and a 72 .Personally I can't tell much of a difference in the feel of the grips between them.All are great shooters,natural pointers,the front sight falls right into place without having to search for center like Colts and Colt clones.Cimmaron also sells open tops...ALL Uberti built like Taylors.Big difference is Taylors tend to run about 10-20% less for the same gun.Bought my 60 from Cimarron "on sale" for $425 a couple of years back.Next week I got a flyer from Taylors for the same gun for $380.

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I have 2 72's. They both have had timing issues. If you cock them slowly they work OK. If you run them fast they tend to over rotate. After hours of work one runs all the time, the other one runs 98% of the time. But I do like to shoot them, they point well, but with the 7 1/2" barrels they are a little unwieldy. I shoot my Rugers in major matches and shoot the 72's at an occasional monthly. I would order a couple of hardened firing pins, and some extra bolt springs if you are going to shoot them a lot. And don't drive the locking wedge in tight. Learn how to take them apart or make friends with a gunsmith. But they are fun to shoot.

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I see alot of questions and chats about grips which is something i never really looked at all that close,how should a grip fit the hand?I know it to each his own but is there a rule of thumb so to speak?Should the pinky rest under or over the grip?

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I am shooting the RM 1872 open tops in 44 with 7 1/2" barrels and seem to point better for me. I've had to work on them a little to make them reliable with Goex. I like shooting them in local matches but will go with Vaqueros for main matches too.

 

I've borrowed a couple of 38 sp conversions of the Taylors in 1851 model and like them too. However, these are 5 1/2" barrels and don't point as well for me. (Personal preference) These two had both cylinders that would bind up with smokeless. These two pistols had all the common problems associated with present made open tops and needed a lot of work.

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I had no idea there were so many problems associated with these style revolvers.........having second thoughts. Maybe I'll add another vaquero instead? :unsure:

 

BSD

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I have a brace of Uberti 1872 Open Tops in .45 Colt with 7½ inch barrels and Navy grips. One is from Cimarron and the other from Taylor's. The one from Cimarron had a timing issue. A gunsmith slicked them up, adjusted the timing, and set to triggers to 3 pounds. I've now been shooting them for over 4 years now without any problems. I shoot duelest and I like the higher hammer spur as it allows me to move my hand up higher on the grips. I think the higher grip is why they seem to point better than my 1873 SAA. I too love the front sight on my Open Tops.

 

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/P50900011.JPG

 

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/Open_Top_2-7-09.jpg

 

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/smileyface.jpg

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I shoot OVM's in FC/FCD or Pietta 1851 Navys in .44 (Civilian model).

I have read that .36 cap-n-ball conversions to .38 Special require hollowbase bullets since the .357" projectiles are undersized. The .45" shot in .44 cap-n-ball pistols work well with normal flat base or beveled base bullets.

No sure on this, but I have read it several times.

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I have a pair of Uberti's in 38. I do think that they are about the best looking 6 shooter ever made (7.5" barrels.) I do agree that they need some work iffin' your going to run them fast,but as I am a duelist shooter(and a slow duelist shooter), that's not going to be a problem. :)

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I am shooting the RM 1872 open tops in 44 with 7 1/2" barrels and seem to point better for me. I've had to work on them a little to make them reliable with Goex. I like shooting them in local matches but will go with Vaqueros for main matches too.

 

I've borrowed a couple of 38 sp conversions of the Taylors in 1851 model and like them too. However, these are 5 1/2" barrels and don't point as well for me. (Personal preference) These two had both cylinders that would bind up with smokeless. These two pistols had all the common problems associated with present made open tops and needed a lot of work.

 

 

All 3 of mine shoot smokeless.After about 5 or 6 stages they'd start getting stiff and I'd have to clean the carbon off of the front of the cylinder.My gunsmith took some metal off of the barrels and re-did the forcing cones leaving a .006 barrel to cylinder gap.I've shot 24+ stages without having any problems since.And no blow back incase you were wondering.

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Sounds like if I get the '51 Navy, at some point I will need a good gunsmith. Can anyone recommend one good with these style of SA's, or does anyone sell a slicked up model?

 

BSD

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