El Chapo

You probably already know this, but pull the clutch in to the friction zone where you can freely rev the engine but there is still some torque to the rear wheel and keep the engine at 1500 rpm or so. Once you feel like your bike is "falling," open your hand just ever so slightly, and if you want to stabilize the bike go as slow as possible, barely put your foot on the rear brake only. You will be amazed that you can ride at 2-3 mph or lean the bike hard enough to scrape by simply modulating that rear wheel torque right at that friction point. It makes my 900 pound Harley-Davidson as nimble as my wife's 280 pound Yamaha TW200 when I execute this correctly.

That is hilarious because nobody tries to keep their feet on the floorboards more than a motor officer. Maybe it's a bad habit but I routinely come to a complete stop and immediately let the clutch back out to make a right hand turn on red. I only put a foot down if there's a car at the intersection that I'm not sure if they're completely stopped.

A Super Glide is the predecessor to a Dyna, not a Sportster at all. FX = what became Dyna. Sportster = XL. Even just looking at the picture, that is clearly not a Sportster tank. It looks like everyone else got to this before I did. It also looks like we have quite a few other American motorcycle enthusiasts here! I wish I still had my XL1200. It was a wonderful motorcycle. My FXDB reminds me of it a lot, though, + a few inches of wheelbase and a lot of torque. The Sportster really is unmatched in that I know of no other smaller frame bike with that kind of torque. It made me an H-D fan for life.

I am so incredibly sad to hear that. Paul is a legend. I love his channel.

That would be kinda hard, since there was no such thing as a 1200 Sportster until 1988, during which we were well aft of the AMF era and very firmly in the "Evolution" era for several years already by then.

That is a brief, not an opinion of the Court.

Yet traveling is a right. As is being free from unreasonable seizures. Seems like a useless distinction.

Maybe there should be a western themed video game? That said even drawing more 40-60 year old shooters could dramatically expand our numbers. As to westerns, I need to see a few myself. I have books about the actual events of the old west but I have not seen too many westerns. My character is probably more Blazing Saddles than High Plains Drifter.

I quit USPSA after 18 years of shooting and 15 years a member to do this. The people in Cowboy are the best. I share many of the sentiments in this thread, though, and at times I've wondered the same things. I am hopeful that there will be changes that draw more younger people, but if not, I don't think there will be this game when I retire. I hope I'm wrong though.

My load is 2.7 of Clays with the 125, and yes it's plenty soft. I have heard there are people loading even lighter, but I don't see the point.

Forum discussions really have value for those reading, not so much for those participating. Whether you actually know someone or are friends with them has literally zero to do with whether they know what they are talking about or are telling the truth. It is neutral on both.

Grease is soap and oil mixed, and yes it does chemically adhere to where you put it. Try it; you might like it. As to whether you're doing it "wrong," there's no need to moralize everything these days. As long as you're okay with there not being much lubrication on a surface that slides like that, use the oil. The only thing I've found oil good for is preventing corrosion where there's a surface that'll hold oil, like a parkerized surface. Just as I wouldn't lube a tie rod end with oil, I wouldn't do the same for the pins in my '73 either. Maybe try a thicker oil if grease is just not an idea you can stand; maybe it'll stay there longer. It doesn't take a huge film of oil to provide some lubrication. Your concerns are why I use a very soft grease, though. SGLI 00 grease is really soft, almost the consistency of butter if you leave it out at room temperature all day.

If it slides, it needs grease. That pivoting joints need lubrication is not a problem. The pin in question freely slides back and forth in its hole and is supposed to "rub" on the side plates. Which is why a small amount of grease at the wear points can make all the difference. I think a lot of people are resistant to using grease on guns because they're used to using a little bit of oil on surfaces that don't need much lubrication, but oil doesn't stay where you put it. Oil works great when there's a pan to hold it and the means to pump or splash it where it needs to be. I have been using grease on guns for decades and it seems to have solved me a lot of problems. The grease I use is this one: https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/FGL-00,-4-6-LB-TUBS/FGL-00 If you can get it in a little 1 pound container, it'll last a lifetime. Use an acid brush to apply.

There is nothing I wouldn't do like that to preserve a $300 gun. I recently saw a 97 being carried around at a match with no finish left, covered with rust. I thought the same thing, that getting it refinished would be so nice to preserve it for the next 100 years, just like the last 100 it served. The owner said it would "cut the value in half." I remembered wondering if we were worried about having museum pieces or tools!

Universal is discontinued along with the entirety of the "clays" line. Or at least its production is suspended indefinitely, so it'll be a miracle if it ever comes back. Try Accurate #5 or CFE Pistol as alternatives for pistol. You may see Ramshot Silhouette or Winchester WSF as well. All of Hodgdon's Extreme powders are hard to come by when times are tough. That includes Benchmark, H4895, Varget, H4350, H1000, etc. They are among the most sought after rifle powders on the market. Lately they've been available here and there, but if you're a high volume rifle shooter, you need to keep 1-2 8 pound jugs of those on hand at all times.