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Tequila Shooter

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Everything posted by Tequila Shooter

  1. Uberti is the manufacturer. Uberti and Pietta are the two main Italian companies that make the guns we use. Both companies make good guns. The lever handle is not an issue, both ‘73’s and ‘66’s use a similar lever. Like Griff said you should look it over in person if possible. If the gun is in good working order and the wood is not cracked or broken then $800.00 is a good price. Do you know what caliber it is? A lot of CAS shooters prefer .38 but they make ‘66’s in other calibers as well.
  2. @Ambush Andy here is a video that I posted a couple of months ago loading brass hulls with a MEC sizemaster. Brass SG Loading
  3. Like I said I never had any luck with that combo. YMMV @Warden Callaway hope to see you at Land Run, maybe you can show me your SG load.
  4. This has been my first year on the dark side, so no expert by any means, but here’s a couple of things I learned. If you use.a powder like American Pioneer Powder (APP) you don’t need to lube your bullets, you can just use a coated one like HY-TEK. APP will give you lots of smoke (no fire just smoke) just like the holy black. The guns you have will all play nice with BP and clean up is easier than with smokeless IMHO. The biggest PIA I originally had was with the SG, this is just my experience, using plastic hulls and wads didn’t work for me. The hulls only lasted once or twice and the plastic wads would melt in the barrels. I’ve since switched to brass hulls and fiber wads, now clean up is a breeze. And when you go to a match make sure you bring a jug of soapy water to throw your brass in, when you get home or the next day empty the jug and rinse the brass with clean water. After that you can treat them like any other brass case and just follow your usual routine. Have fun and remember with smoke if it’s thicker you ain’t gunna be quicker.
  5. When I first started with CAS I bought a CZ hammered coach gun thinking it was more “true cowboy”, but like @Cholla it was very hard to cock. I wound up getting a hammerless SG. It was a beautiful gun and except for the hammers worked great. If I’m ever looking for another SG the Sharptail will be on the list.
  6. Here’s a link to Marauder’s page Slicking up a Stoeger About ½ way down he explains how to correct for stiff opening with an empty gun.
  7. Hey there my friend! I can’t tell you about the Cimarron, but I did have a mule eared CZ. It was a beautiful gun the biggest negative I had with it was the hammers were very hard to pull back. I’ve heard others here say they had the same issue and CZ sent them new, lighter hammer springs. I wish you would’ve mentioned it when you were here sold the gun for $800 about a month ago.
  8. I knew I should’ve checked first Thanks for staying on your game and correcting me.
  9. I’m intrigued. Secrets? What secrets? We don’t need no stink’n secrets. And if their friends of mine that’s already test of their grit and tenacity.
  10. Just spitballing, and I guess a leather craftsman would be able to say if it could even be made. But, what about a double stack SG slide with 4 shells on each row. The top row would be vertical and the lower row angled out enough so they’d be easy to grab and still not fall out when moving, maybe 30 degrees or so. You’d get 8 shells in the space of 4.
  11. I got lucky a guy on Mississippi Gun Owners forum sold me 2,000+ 9mm brass cleaned and primed $200. Thought it was a decent price all things considered.
  12. Sent mine there also and I’ll second it. They run as good as he promised they would.
  13. If it helps I’m willing to work for primers at any of the manufactures. I think at least 1,000 per day would be the minimum I’d take, paid weekly, and I’d work for at least 3 months.
  14. If you (or anyone) wants a car for the twisties my wife is selling her BMW Z4. Now that’s a pocket rocket running on rails.
  15. I’ve got a pair of Remmy NMs and mine are like @Sedalia Dave the pins on both have that notch cut out. When I clean them I’ll grease the cylinder pin hole then push the cylinder through a couple of times to spread the grease. Then I look at the pin and if it needs a little more grease I’ll add it to the pin. I’ve run 5 stages and haven’t had any binding. At home I use Gun Butter (I like the syringe, less messy) if I need it I have Bore Butter in my box at the shoot.
  16. Here’s another site that has once fired .45 Colt brass in stock East Coast
  17. CC - every time I’ve used plastic wads it’s been a PIA for me cleaning the barrels. With the fiber wads I just rinse the barrels with water, dry and recondition. When I tried cleaning it that way after plastic wads I had a build up of plastic that took quite a while to get out. What am I doing wrong?
  18. .45C. With the SAA’s I’ve never had to do maintenance during a match and cleanup was easy. But I’m using APP not real BP, so that may have something to do with it. As for bullets I’m using Scarlett’s hi-tek 200grn RNFP. I anneal all my .45C brass. But I do think you’re correct that the binding is at the front of the cylinder, most likely it builds up between the forcing cone and the cylinder. I won’t be cutting anything, I work on my guns but I know my limits and that would be way beyond my abilities. So for now I’ll let them sit and either use the SAA’s for smoky cartridges and NMA’s for C&B.
  19. Yes, and it’s no better. As Jed I. Knight said I guess I could have them opened up, I tried honing the chambers no good, tried annealed brass, same same. I’m not complaining I like my SAA.
  20. Not glare, I guess you could say that they’re made too good. They have very tight tolerances and with BP mine bind up after just one stage, sometimes before the gun is even empty. Never had that problem with my SAA, but my Ruger NMV always.
  21. I spray mine with Hornady One Shot before storing them, shuck out like poop out’a goose.
  22. Try this one SG Reloading with MEC
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