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Diamond Jake

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Diamond Jake last won the day on August 14 2020

Diamond Jake had the most liked content!

About Diamond Jake

  • Birthday 01/01/1956

Previous Fields

  • SASS #
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Green River Gunslingers, Wartrace Regulators

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Hendersonville, Tennessee
  • Interests
    shooting, hunting, fishing, cast iron cooking

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  1. When I first started to shoot SASS I didn't have a press or any supplies for loading shotshells, so I followed Duelist 1954 video for loading black powder shot shells with a dowel and nail. I used about 50 grs of powder and 1 oz shot, and varied the thickness of the fiber wad for column height. Eventually I found a MEC 600 jr press for $30 at an estate sale and started loading smokeless. The only plastic wads I could find were for 1 oz shot, and I had a bunch of Cleanshot powder for my rifle/pistol loads, so I used 16 g of Clean shot and 1 ox 7.5 shot and it works well. One of these days (probably this coming winter) I'll get some smaller wads and try for a lighter load. Maybe with a different powder, though I have no complaints with Cleanshot.
  2. It looks like the original owner did a little filing on the face of the left hammer so that it would strike a little more squarely. I haven't touched these.
  3. Are you tough enough to ride pink? The pony is cute but has a mean look in his eye. Better be getting your pink duds together! (Artwork from my daughter)
  4. Correct. Lug soles not allowed. Of course, with today's shoes, it's hard to say what is lug and what isn't. I've seen some pretty aggressive soles that weren't the traditional lug design, but looked like they'd grip even better. Don't get hung up on the historic accuracy of clothing. We're a fantasy game, not reenactors. My first set of holsters were museum quality replicas of original holsters, and they weren't good at all for speed. Same with footwear. For three years I've worn Harley Davidson boots, and gotten a few compliments on them but nobody ever complained.
  5. I use dry fiber wads. I started with lubed wads, but they are a mess and crumble. I saw no difference in performance or after-match cleaning with the dry wads so that's what I do. YMMV.
  6. Cleaning out some space in my gun safe, and I have 3 Coach Guns, so the TTN is the odd-man out. It's one of the earlier (3 digit serial number) imported from China. I bought it used from a fella on here, who claims he used it in a few matches then left it in his safe for many years. I thought I might try Classic Cowboy and used it in a couple monthly matches and decided to stay with internal hammer shotguns. It appears to be still box stock; definitely no champhering on the chamber mouths, but it shucks higher grade ammo and BP Reloads fine. Some cheap ammo like Estate tends to open roughly. I've reduced the price from what I paid for it because of the cracked stock in the wrist area. I repaired it with epoxy, with a stainless steel screw imbedded under filling that doesn't quite match the stain. The design of the gun has vertical screws from the tang to the trigger plate, and also horizontal screws pulling the two side plates towards each other, so the crack is supported on all sides. I'm very confident in the repair. However, I'm selling it face-to-face so the buyer has ample time to examine it thoroughly. I've used it in a couple matches after the repair and it shows no signs of further weakening. It can be seen in Middle Tennessee or Bowling Green KY areas. I plan to have it with me at the TN State match in early June, and also at monthly matches at Wartrace and Green River Gunslingers.
  7. In a traditional-style "4 click", the first click is the Safety notch, as Ranger Dan said. it happens when the hammer face is only about 1/8" away from fully seated, with the hammer face still within the sides of the hammer slot in the frame. I bet that's where you heard the first click on those re-worked guns. The second click is the half-cock position, which is where you can spin the cylinder freely and open the loading gate for loading/unloading. With the "3 click" version we talk about, the first click, and the first place the hammer actually stops, is the half-cock position I just described.
  8. The real issue isn't the number of clicks: it's the increased risk of mechanical failure with the retractible firing pin and the arm on the trigger that actuates the firing pin rod. Simpler is better, therefore the original 4 click version should be preferred. The question only you can answer is if it's worth it to you to have the conversion done. I'll probably take the hammer and trigger out of my 4 click Cavalry model and put it in the other of my match guns.
  9. I have a factory Uberti four click, and two Uberti 3 clicks. I bought one of the Taylor's kits to try it out. The first one I converted was quite rough afterwards and the timing was off, so I converted that one back to Factory and put the Taylor's kit in the second one. This one dropped right in and is as smooth as the factory 4 click. Not professional cowboy-smith smooth, but as good as factory. So don't expect to get glass-smooth action work by simply installing the kit with no fitting. As to whether the conversion is worth the $90, you'll have to decide. I've been shooting the 3 click next to the 4 click for about 8 matches, and the only time I notice a difference is at the loading and unloading table. BTW, the reason I don't shoot the factory 4 click in matches anymore is it's a 7th Cavalry model, with 7.5" barrel and narrow front sight blade. My other two have matching shorter barrels and wider blades in front.
  10. Well, I'm all pluckered out! Great time with Posse 102 and everyone at the match.
  11. I think we're going to have a "Blazzing Saddles Campfire Scene" later tonight. Last night I made a big pot of beans to warm up over the fire at the camping area tonight. Just from a few spoon-fulls to taste test and they're already working! Headed out in a couple hours. See y'all soon.
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