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    Idaho and Portland
  • Interests
    Duck hunting, dog training, CAS, old guns, reloading. And duck hunting.

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  1. Cat, I'm confused. Beeswax, paraffin, sheep tallow, bear fat, lard, white grease, axle grease, Crisco, olive oil, CVA Grease Patch, SPG, WonderLube, Lucas Red 'N' Tacky, et al., are all hydrocarbons, give or take water or additives. If you don't use black powder, how is it that you know that some hydrocarbons create fouling that incapacitates weapons, and other hydrocarbons do not? Just tryin' to understand. TF Jack, If you decide to use the paper hulls for black, and are worried about swelling, don't try to heat them in the stove to drive off the water before reloading. The wax in the paper is all that is holding the hull components together. Imagine shooting your previously un-tested ammo in a match where the still smoking brass heads extract nicely, and you have to use a knife to pull the rest of the hull tube ... I knew a guy that did that. Once. I'll pay for UPS, if you don't want them.
  2. Give The Gun Works a call in Spfld. I was there two months ago, they had some supplies on a top shelf from an estate purchase, or some such. I walked out with two boxes of Feltan Blue Streaks, and a Win box, and for original prices. Feeling a bit greedy, I left at least one box behind, (or maybe I didn't want what remained.) There might have been a box of KwickSerts. As a K-S substitute, why not find a really thin-walled standard plastic shot wad type, and cut the column and gas seal off? 20 minutes with an X-Acto, and you will have plenty. (Part of my go-to load recipe.)
  3. Brownell's lists a trigger & bolt spring with a longer trigger leg to accommodate ASM. DeerCreekProducts (dot com) sells ASM 1860 and 1861 springs and screws, which should work with your Dakota.
  4. Thumlers B or Lortone <x>12, 'cause either was less than $50 from Craigslist. Prefer Lortone because only one thumb screw to remove/tighten. Old rockhounds may just petrify, but their stuff still gets sold off; unfortunately, more often, nowadays.
  5. Paper jacket the 0.308" diameter 143gr "Lever Hammer" bullets. Two wraps of slightly moistened 25% cotton airmail paper will shrink to 0.015" overall thickness. (.308 + .015 = .323.) More wraps of thinner onion skin may or may not get you closer to 0.321", I've never used onion skin. Assuming 0.321" is the actual grove diameter of your rifle. Always "fun" to patch small diameter bullets! Reference Paul Mathews, "The Paper Jacket"; a good read.
  6. Phantom, Thank you four unifying all of us. ...the rest of us.
  7. I want to shoot black powder from paper shotgun hulls. Having a problem with paper hulls being damaged on the final crimp and size stage of my Lee LoadAll. The LoadAll uses a steel ring to size the hull base, which is not the problem. The most important feature of the LoadAll is the final station, which sizes the FRONT 2/3 of the shell, and completes a star crimp. The last station ensures shotshell is properly undersized (slightly) to drop into my double chambers. With paper hulls, the nylon sizing tube seems to "grab" the outside layer of (waxed) paper, and pull it down and away from the inner layers. I end up with an ugly, uneven crease near the base, and cockeyed shell. Hull does not look like it will survive another reload. If I do not pull all the way down to avoid hull damage, then the completed shell does not drop into my shell checker (barrel-set removed from my double, muzzle down). Hornady "One Shot" case lube would dissolve the wax in the paper hull outer layer. Would a chromed steel sizer on a MEC or Pacific/Hornady loader "slide" over the paper hulls, properly sizing on the last station? Is there another, separate sizing tool available? (The MEC "Super Sizer" is not an option, it only sizes the base.) How are other paper-hull BP shooters ensuring final results are properly sized? LoadAll fits much better in my tiny, temporary apartment than my MEC9000, Pacific 366, or PW375, which are in storage in another state.
  8. Sight inserts for a Pedersoli 1874 Sharps rifle front globe sight, right? Standard Lyman 17a sets will work. Cabelas, Track of the Wolf, Cimmaron, Buffalo Arms, many others should have them. Rear sights, too. https://www.cimarron-firearms.com/accessories/rifle-sights/pedersoli-sights.html https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/875/1/FS-SE-SL-INSERT Or, someone has a sight pack sitting around in a desk drawer, and will mail them to you. I am a blade front sight guy, myself.
  9. In today's email inbox: "Th[e] throats of our 38 caliber cylinders are already bored for heeled base bullets (.375" dia)." - Walt Kirst Good to go for the .36!
  10. Thanks to all that have replied. Good info on the various ASM and Uberti issues. Custom work is out of scope. "Regular" .357" bullets will work, that is the beauty of extra deep rifling, but not likely the accuracy I would like. Hollow based bullets have always been an option, I love playing with loads for HB wadcutters, seems to always "work good enough", but is too easy. Hmm. Kirst Converter. A Kirst option for outside lubed 44 Colt seems to be out for 1860 and Dragoon. 38 LC for 51/61 is a good option. Opening the recoil shield and fitting the pawl to the Conversion cylinder are still "custom", but within my tool and skill set. However, likely I would have to use a 357 Mag reamer on a 38LC chamber to get that "bored-through" chamber. Seems like a kludge. I launched an email to Kirst asking if they provide option for bore-through (original) instead of inside-lubed (modern) chamber. I have other, original revolvers and rifles with "outside lubed" chambers, this should not be that much different for a CAS revolver. ('Cept new molds, time/place for casting, extra reloading time/challenge, mis-match with match rifle, can't share ammo, ...)
  11. Thanks for the replies. Custom smiths are willing to produce about anything. I'm curious if off the shelf was ever available. I didn't even get makers right, ASM instead of Pietta. Is there any posted chart(s) of models available at any point in time; short of buying old marketing brochures from eBay?
  12. - Did Pietta or Uberti make open top Colt replicas, and use barrels with the same bore and groove dimensions as the equivalent reproduction cap & ball barrel? I realize "Open Top 1872" infers new-made barrel. - Were any of the Mason or Richards conversions from P or U made with C&B barrels? I see posts here and other places for open tops factory chambered in, for example, 38 Colt or 44 Colt. From the comments posters have on reloading, I assume the barrel groove dimensions are about .357 and .427, respectively. ("I can shoot 44 Special in my 44 Colt Richards conversion", for example.) - Were there any made with .360" bore/.~.375" groove, or .440" bore/~.456 groove? (Older, deep-groove rifling found in cap and ball guns.) - Any designed & chambered specifically for use of heel-type bullets? - Were all cartridge conversions done with "modern cartridge" barrel dimensions? I realize that current cap and ball .44 bore/groove dimensions are nearly identical to popular 45 Colt dimensions. Thus, many 45 caliber cartridge conversions available. I tried finding published historical lists of available models from either vendor, but too much "noise" for this question on Google. I'm looking for something more painful than trying to shoot CAS with out-of-the-box, untuned, '70's & '80's vintage C&B revolvers. Now that I'm nearly done tuning my guns, I am looking for a good winter project to match frustration and grief level. Loading for heel-type cartridges probably would meet the ticket. (Actually, just curious.)
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