Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Long Fingers, SASS#56813

Members
  • Posts

    267
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • SASS #
    56813

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Illinois

Recent Profile Visitors

2,769 profile views

Long Fingers, SASS#56813's Achievements

153

Reputation

  1. SKB 200e with engraved coin finish. All work was done by Doc Noper. Barrels are cut at 22” with large bead. Barrels are funneled/ honed for ease of loading and extraction. Inertia trigger. wood and finish are in great shape with a few light handling marks. Rubber butt pad installed. I had this set up as my backup, has only been shot for 3 stages at a local match. I shoot a fairly light 7/8 load, everything worked great. Only selling because I prefer the 100 with splinter over the beaver tail. Have picked up a couple so this one needs to go. This is a race ready beautiful gun. First I’ll take it here. $2100 shipped from my FFL to your FFL. Thanks for looking. LF.
  2. Had to look again, couldn’t get orientated on the top picture. Pretty thin area to work with. I would drill and pin ( red arrow ) to stop the crack. Glue or epoxy it all together.
  3. I’m not an expert but I have repaired several and there still holding together. I would only pin it if it was split off/ severely damaged. From what I can see in the picture I would glue and clamp. I use a super thin super glue from the hobby store so it flows into the crack. Degrease the area, I try to pry open the crack a little ( don’t split the piece off) while applying the glue so it gets farther into the opening. Looks like there is room at the beginning of the crack ( left side of the picture) to cut a notch across the crack. You then could epoxy in some type of key. Dowel rod, Brad nail ect.. or you could drill a couple small holes from the inlet area towards the crack. Run a couple small screws in to pull the crack tight after gluing. None of those repairs would be seen from the outside. Good luck with your project LF.
  4. Offer a great shoot and people will come regardless of the awards. All the other stuff is fluff. I also wish clubs would indicate what kind of match they are offering. Am I lassoing horses and throwing dynamite or targets big and close ect… especially if it’s a relatively new match. Can’t attend them all so would like to make an educated decision on where to spend my money. LF.
  5. I have several 1911s with front serrations, some without. I have 1 Kirkpatrick pancake holster and it is not as smooth as any of the others. Not as rough as your describing but it does catch the front serrations. Actually kinda disappointed in the Kirkpatrick quality, seemed to have went down hill from years ago?? Front serrations are not new, leather holsters obviously are not new. I’m sure there are leather holster out there that will work without catching the front serrations, I have several that work just fine. kydex should be the smoothest, most won’t contact the serrations. They typically lock the gun in by the trigger guard…..but be careful, they can skin the hide right off a blued gun. LF.
  6. This was listed on the wire some time ago, not sure if it’s still current. Wisconsin - Classic Old West Arms, 1897 shotguns, Outlaw Gambler, 715-758-8380
  7. It was always fun being around my grandfather. Here are a few of the tamer ones. Quicker than a duck on a June bug faster than $h!t through a goose keep walking till your hat floats. sweating like a whore in church slicker than goose $h!t on a pie tin
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.