Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

Members
  • Content Count

    9,890
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Nope, no, and newwwwwah! Wrong in 2 ways. Zinc is not a bullet alloy component. You are thinking of antimony, the main hardening addition to lead. Antimony is 6 to 10 times the price of lead. Tin is 10 to 20 times the price of lead. It's not cheap. Lead alloy ALWAYS costs more than soft lead. So, C&B balls are made of the cheapest possible lead alloy - dead soft lead. It's price as balls is mainly in the labor to cast, the small market for C&B, the high cost of shipping heavy lead products, and the hazardous material precautio
  2. This site (Kitco Metals) has the market price for pure lead. http://www.kitcometals.com/charts/lead_historical.html That is a price from which lead wholesalers will mark up to the price you could pay for, maybe, a minimum lot of 5,000 pounds or so (a pallet worth or two). Today, commodity lead is $0.90 a pound. Then it's got to be shipped and warehoused and broken down into smaller orders..... good luck, from your neighborhood metallurgist, GJ
  3. That $0.15 a pound for Wheel Weights must be somebody's purchase offer price at the scrap metal dealer. The dealer then will be glad to turn that around and sell it to a buyer at, oh, say $0.75 a pound price! Checked the link, yep, that is a scrap metal "buy" price. You will NEVER get a chance to buy lead alloy at the price a big scrap yard offers to buy it from big demo crews and auto shops. Besides, for C&B ammo, you will NEED soft lead, not wheel weights!! Lead is priced at $0.40 a pound for buying at scrap dealer on that page And, here's the fine print a
  4. Failures certainly by Colt Execs and capital providers (VCs) looking to milk the existing product lines for what profit they could. Only innovation recently was the re-run of Colt Cobra (Python, reduced in rank) - something that certainly is not in the mainstream of demand now. .
  5. I would not buy anything from a caster who failed to realize that C&B balls need to be dead soft (pure) lead. What a rookie mistake for a caster. Swaged balls are in theory more accurate than cast since they will not have any casting cavities. For revolver loads,, it hardly matters. Casting is harder to automate, so the big companies swage them on automatic header machines. Or by rolling between grooved rotating plates. Good luck, GJ
  6. Read this over first, especially the shotgun shell section: https://www.curtrich.com/bpsubsdummies.html Good luck, GJ
  7. If a primer were to stand up, would it do so on the anvil's legs?
  8. From what I could tell back 8 years ago when I used 650 - Primer (somehow) gets upturned onto it's side in the rotary wheel. As it gets over close to primer seating position, the channel tightens and primer gets pinched. The flash of the primer that detonates follows the channel back to the primer feed tube and blows up the whole tube of primers, the liner tube and blows the weight rod up into the ceiling. Usually the outer tube survives intact. IIRC, GJ
  9. CC rules REQUIRE a fur/felt hat. Turban not very felty. Better check the boots requirement, too. Good luck, GJ
  10. Braces and sleeve garters - mine don't always show. My pocket watch does not have to be visible. A knife can pretty much be covered with a vest. If you are wearing it properly, it counts. (no spurs worn on the arm - yeah it was tried). Items have to be worn when active at the match, at any match events you attend during the match (dinners, dances, etc), and at awards ceremony. (In other words, you can relax when you're dead. Hah, Ha.) GJ
  11. I've run both 550 and 650s for cowboy ammo. I VASTLY prefer the 550 for simpler operation, and quite a bit lower price. I too can load at least 400 rounds an hour. That means in a given month, at pre-lockdown match useage rates, I spend 5 hours a month loading to support probably 40 hours at matches. And with 550, I've never blown up a primer feed tube (but twice with a 650). Good luck, GJ
  12. I was citing experience loading my .45 auto cases, just for clarity. GJ
  13. Yes, I use the Lyman M belling die myself, but only when loading cast bullets. I don't need it for jacketed slugs because they can stand a little more seating pressure without damage. Saves having to run cases through another die when I don't need to. Good luck, GJ
  14. There really NEEDS to be a slight bell put in the neck by the deprime sizing die. The expander button should have a slight step above the main part of the button that, when you screw down the decapping rod a little more, it puts the bell into the top 0.005" of the neck of the case. Flat base slugs are really hard to start into the neck without that bell. The bell amount should be enough that you can set the bullet on the expanded neck and just a couple of thousands of the bullet slides down into the neck just by weight of the bullet. Otherwise, the edge of the slug catchs the
  15. Nope, they are Miroku's built almost to the BSS pattern. Which makes them a "lower price almost replacement" for a BSS. Good luck, GJ
  16. Want one that lasts and is real reliable? Are you strong enough to handle an almost 8 pound gun? The Browning BSS. It's a mechanical trigger reset, so it can shoot as light a shell as you want. Will probably outlive you. And it won't break butt stocks. Good luck, GJ
  17. The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 4th edition. It's got a complete instruction set for loading with lead bullets (or poly coated, which load mostly the same and with same recipes). More loading data that is usable with cast bullets than any of the other loading handbooks, which focus mostly on high-performance jacketed bullet loads. Here's one vendor with it in stock: https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/000159817004/cast-bullet-handbook-4th-edition And Yes, a local pard who loads and is willing to show you the ropes for a few hours could be "Gold Level Su
  18. Have a 1972 vintage Blackhawk with the dual cylinder. Is still quite accurate with the .45 auto cylinder, and pretty good with .45 Colt cylinder. Yes, the auto cylinder is prone to collect lead when shooting lead bullets, right at the headspace ledge. Nothing that a stiff brush won't take out, though. Good luck, GJ
  19. Rules have not changed on the sights section of Modern Category requirements. Dots on the sights are fine. Fluorescent light bar type sights are still illegal. See the rules. That grip safety on the Rem R1 is legal for Traditional. It's not a beavertail. Good luck, GJ
  20. I tested the range of detection on at least 2 of my 3 RCBS LO Dies, and found if I calibrated to my target load (say 4.7 of powder), the low lock would occur at 20% below the target (about 3.7) and the high lock would occur at about 20% above target (5.6 grains). Sounds like that LOD may be dirty or malfunctioning on the high lock side, and not locking up. I catch the occasional case (1 out of 100 or so) that is a light load (3 to 3.5 grains). And I intentionally double charge a case about every 250 rounds or so, just to make sure it locks up on a double. I have had a few drops that I
  21. Medical examiners get to rule cause of death. That's the way most jurisdictions handle death certificates. When that seems to be illogical to someone, I'd suggest they lobby to change the laws or the person in the examiner's position. Good luck, GJ
  22. Well, individual guns need the gap that they need. Rugers are different in the barrel-to-cylinder gap required than are most of the SAA clones. The lube strategy being used with BP loads varies a lot from shooter to shooter. So, declaring that there is exactly one right answer, or that other answers are horse feathers, is not well supported by lots of shooters' practical experience. Adjust your guns to what you need, how often you want to have to clean off the cylinder face, and what lube you are wanting to use. Good luck, GJ
  23. Love the RCBS powder lock-out die so much - use them on all of my Dillon 550s, even though it means I have to use a combination seater/crimp die. For me, yes, a case powder "alarm" (lock-out in my case) HAS saved me several no charge and even a few double-charge rounds over the last 10 years. Well worth it. good luck, GJ
  24. Only Ginger still is alive from the 3 Hour Cruise.
  25. Think you mean the last 1/4" the action WON'T fall open. That is where the hammer cockers are doing their work. The cocking levers need to be adjusted so it occurs earlier, easier and one side then the other cocks (to spread the effort out so both barrels don't cock at one time). And you need to ensure the action still has a spring buffer as the action stops, or you will slam the action parts hard enough to damage them when the action goes full open. That can be kinda tricky to get right. 1 - you don't have spare parts to put in if you damage a part (go to far with grinding m
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.