Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

So do I. It's not what I recommend for keeping the peace. Good luck, GJ

A 12 Brinnell bullet needs about 10K PSI pressure to obdurate the base into the rifling of the barrel. Almost never will pards get that kind of pressure in a revolver with BP or with subs. Good luck, GJ

Softer shooting. 2F will give less pressure and recoil. Nice in pistols especially if filling the case. good luck, GJ

SOFT SOFT SOFT. No more than Brinnell 8 for my BP bullets that I cast for revolvers and main match rifle loads. About 5 parts soft lead, 1 part COWW and enough tin to get to 0.5%. Good luck, GJ

THEN Order parts from Ruger (assuming they will let you buy those parts...) Good luck, GJ Could be a slight possibility that the frame suffered damage or was weakened by the bone-charcoal case hardening that Longhunter does. They (LH) don't (chemical) color case. They case harden guns. You might not be able to see that until you get the old plate out of the recoil shield.

I load BP by using a Lyman 55 BP measure and cycle the rotor by hand every case. That removes any steel parts from the powder measure, and I'm pretty confident that it is safe for how I load. Good luck, GJ

Ok, your recoil plate has sunk into the recoil shield because the plate's crosspin is probably sheared or missing. Look at the parts diagram, parts 40 is the plate, and 41 is the shield plate crosspin https://www.midwayusa.com/general.mvc/index/Schematics~ruger_vaquero You can order those parts from several suppliers, Midway and Brownells being a couple of the premier vendors. That cross pin is very tiny. Get a small enough pin punch to drive that out. Make sure you catch the firing pin spring and firing pin and put them back in using the same orientation as what they came out as. That one(?) high-pressure load may have sheared or dislodged the crosspin. (?) That would be real unusual, as Ruger design is really stout. More likely the crosspin has worked it way loose and fallen out. Inspect closely and you probably can tell before you start disassembly. Good luck, GJ Did you have a Shotgun Boogie or some other short stroke work done to this pistol where part of the work is to fiddle with the firing pin? If so, failure may stem from damage done when that work was performed..... If that is the case, having it fixed by Jared at LongHunters would not be a bad idea at all....

HR - Can I suggest you go back to your original post and clean up the sentences. Several of them are not making sense. A squib load and another load that is hot in the same batch of ammo might suggest your powder drop is not consistent, or other loading practices are not high quality, ending up with little powder in the squib and too much powder in the hot round. Primers backing out (and staying backed out) in revolvers is usually caused by too light a load. It takes a moderate amount of pressure in the fired round to shove the fired empty case back against the recoil shield on the revolver, thus shoving the primer back into it's pocket. Because there is some play between the cartridge and the recoil shield on all revolvers, it is normal to have the primer momentarily set back against the recoil shield, then be re-seated into the pocket as the case slams against the recoil shield. A pierced primer cup is not real common. That could have also been an indicator of real high pressures in the hot cartridge that you had. You will have to get that under control. From your original post wording, I can't tell in which gun you have a problem, whether the high-pressure problem has repeated itself several times, whether the squib has occurred more than once, and exactly what rounds ended up with a pierced primer. You MUST have it clear in your head, before you can really start to understand and then fix the problem. You MUST have it clear in your head before you can explain it to us. The common factor here - we can't help you much until YOU can understand clearly what the sequence of things happening was/is. Keep good notes when you run into a problem like this, if you can't keep it all in your head. Good luck, GJ

Wood is so much cheaper than PVC. I make stands with a 2x4 base, uprights of furring strips, and target support boards cut from old thin plywood. Last for at least 5 years and very light weight (except for base). The uprights will take a few hits without being destroyed, too. Goodluck, GJ

When I buy a gun, I don't want to be lucky. I want to be sure that it works right for most folks. And that I can get parts. Now, the (single stack) Paras being close clones of most 1911s - parts would not worry me. Guns that are not close to 100% reliable are even less interesting to me than guns that are not accurate. Good luck, GJ

Since Para has been bought up by Remington in 2012, and there were lots of reports of some problems with reliability (feeding especially) with their Para built single-stacks like this WB model, and not knowing exactly what extra nice parts might be on the WB version, I would be reluctant to buy one over about $450 or so. If you want a reliable gun then the Remington's own R11, Springfield Mil Spec or Range Officer, Ruger and government type Colts are twice the gun from what I would expect an older Para would be. Just my opinion without having hands on experience. Good luck, GJ PS - it sounds like Remington is being pretty successful RECENTLY in taking over the Para manufacturing and making it an integral part of their operation, and improving the quality of build, so that new Para-Remington guns would be much more attractive than the ones built 5-8 years ago.

Revolvers - Rowdy Yates - have the Manhattan Conversion done to virtually eliminate detached cap jams. He will also make it very reliable. Sure, you could convert rifle to .44-40 easily. Same length as .45 Colt, same rim diameter. Track of the Wolf has some .44-40 rifle barrel liners at reasonable prices. Just have to drill, install liner and recut chamber and recesses. Are you wanting to shoot Black Powder? If so, .44-40 would be a MUCH better choice than .44 Colt, or .45 Colt for that matter. Good luck, GJ

Changing the forum's use of fonts would be a forum setting that a moderator might be willing to look for and adjust. Then again, they might not want to spend the time or take the risk of messing the forums up. Changing fonts in your own posts is up to you - you surely can do that. Changing fonts in other pard's posts is not in your powers as a forum user. Most folks when they have problems with their browser showing text so it is readable, punch up the "magnification" of the browser - that would be control + to bump up one step and control - to drop a step on most browsers. Some browsers let you set the minimum size of fonts displayed, and even what font is used if the web site does not explicitly ask for a particular font to be used. Exploring the advanced settings available in your browser might yield good results. Good luck, GJ

Long reach back to just show that my needs and your needs may be at variance. When I was in my first 5 years of shooting SASS, I used dry fire a lot to speed up my load and shuck. Now that I have that timing built in, I practice more with transitions and accuracy at speed. Dry fire doesn't show me the accuracy part. So, I now mostly live fire shotgun. Good luck, GJ

Yep++ Don't need to fire rounds to get in good SG practice. Lots of pards know how to make up dummy shells for shotgun. If you are using a 97, you probably want light weight dummies (no shot) - this saves the extractors/ejector from the extra work of kicking out heavy rounds. If using SxS, then usually heavy weight dummies are better to practice with. Good luck, GJ

AND: Given the couple of large bays that host 4 stages shooting simultaneously, picking brass would also be impossible due to having to declare a "cold line" periodically to shag the posse's brass - and even more delay if each shooter was to get their own brass back. Don't worry. More new brass is available now than over the last five years, thanks to Starline expanding production. Good luck, GJ

Black Diamond models were a "high end" variation from the factory. But the "valuation add" for that model goes down fast as the gun is used. And your pictures show tons of wear. That is not a collectors gun at this point in its life (unless there is a "story" to the gun that makes it historically interesting), so value it just as a shooter, based upon it's condition and reliability. Like a well used commemorative or engraved gun, there is no added value for the fancy added features. Depends upon condition of the gun, especially the internals. And the serial number range. A good gun smith (knowledgeable about 97s) is the only way to really know. Just looking at the lettering on the slide arm, it could even be a 1900 era gun. Good luck, GJ

45 degree angle is plenty. Shotgun loads will leave you with a disappointingly small lead recovery, as a much larger fraction of the lead turns into lead dust. You might even be able to use a water pan, much easier to get the lead out of water than sawdust, but then, the sawdust you can leave in the lead as you melt it and it just helps flux the melt. Pick your target for setting in front of your recovery plate carefully. If you shoot standard knockdowns with their vertical target, even a small knockdown will intercept 80% of the shotgun pattern at cowboy distances and vaporize that part of the shot string. If you use frangible targets (clay birds) then you have the fragments to sift out or to "live with" the smoke they create and extra dross produced upon smelting the lead down to make ingots. I've seen lots of clay target ranges recover shot that was fired over their range, most of it not badly deformed. But never heard of anyone intentionally trying to "trap" lead shot at the target. Possibly because of the difficulties mentioned above. Good luck, GJ

Then it sounds like the Match Director and other match officials made a good call, that there were a healthy number of contestants allowed to shoot in that peer group with like minded and capability shooters, and that if awards went 3 deep for the category, most pards probably thought they were "recognized" properly. Which, after all, is one of the core ways to "keep the customers happy." Good luck, GJ

Only if a match director decides to award Silver Senior Duelist. And that is usually driven from several shooters requesting such a category. And it has to be balanced against the match funds and everyone's time it takes to make the extra awards for a match. SSD is not an official category that must be awarded. Your concern sounds like it should be forwarded to the Match Director of the appropriate event..... Remember, though, the game is bigger than it was in the 1990s, with more shooters and more events. To have expected the game to have stayed "just as it was invented" is off the mark. Good luck, GJ

For those who might be still looking for Clays powder, Recob's has a big shipment they are selling at their last-year price. I've got no connection to this, just saw the sale offer from them, which in itself is slightly unusual. http://www.recobstargetshop.com/index.htm Good luck, GJ

At turn of the century (2000), there were standard and ladies categories for: Modern - (adjustable revolver sights) Traditional - (fixed sights) Duelist Buckaroo Junior Frontier Cartridge Mod and Traditional and some of the age modifications (Senior being most common) The finer age splits (Buckaroo, Young Gun, Wrangler, 49er, Silver Senior, Elder Statesman, Cattle Baron), Classic Cowboy (about 2004) and B Western (about 2006) came later. As I recall.... And, with your SASS number in the 29K range, I'd have thought you had been around since mid 1990s. Good luck, GJ

Never, and I don't use a wet tumbler because, among many other reasons, I often load right after cleaning. Good luck, GJ

Yeah, although the discussion points are close to the same, I assumed the OP was talking revolvers.....