Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

Or one can place the hex locking ring of the die in the jaws of the vise and not have any contact on the threads of the die body by the vise jaws.... It takes a BIG vise to hold the die head of a Dillon press. And it's an expensive part made of aluminum - not something to beat on. GJ

Yeah, I take the die out of my Dillon 550 and chuck it up in my bench vise (with heavy brass jaws) where I can whale away as needed. good luck, GJ

Disassemble with the gun inside a cardboard box. Parts which try to escape are normally caught and dropped to the bottom of the box. The more valuable or necessary the gun, the more important to "box it" good luck, GJ

But, sometimes you just need to give up on the real weak search that the forum software provides and use a search tool that is powerful. To do this, open a browser window, and using a Google search page, enter: site:sassnet.com stoeger choke tubes This REALLY gives you the advantage of using one of the most powerful ways to search, and to focus the search just on one web site (like SASS's web site). So this returns a bunch of threads that have asked the same question of "what tubes does a Stoeger use?" https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php?/topic/164396-screw-in-chokes-for-stoeger/ https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php?/topic/240620-chokes-for-the-stoeger-supreme/ Hmmm - seems OP asked this same question almost 9 years ago. https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php?/topic/256297-stoeger-supreme-coach-gun-choke-question/ https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php?/topic/295144-shotgun-chokes-for-cas-target-distances/ etc I don't know if this works with other search tools, but it would be easy to try out, if you have a dislike of Google search. good luck, GJ

I searched in our forum, and quickly found a post from last December that has the same answer, too. The search function takes a little practice to make it work for you. Since you want to see posts that talked about Stoeger choke tubes, I made my search terms in the search field (top of every forum frame) look for the terms "Stoeger + choke" Just a "Stoeger choke" search would require the two words to be found exactly next to each other to be shown as a match (not what most multi-word searches ought to do, but that is the way the Invision forum software has been programmed). So, you need a plus sign between terms that do not have to be exactly adjacent, but should be present somewhere in the same original post or any reply. good luck, GJ

No! HCl will dissolve the steel almost as fast as the brass. Don't try that. I've NEVER stuck ANY brass case (rifle cases are the toughest) that could not be removed by use of a stuck case remover. Never EVER really lean on a press handle if a case does not resize! Stop and find out what the problem is (usually lack of lubricant or filthy die or case). And, OP, I reload every month of the year. I shoot every month of the year. I have time every month of the year. So I use it to reload. good luck, GJ

But searching the various choke tube manufacturers sites QUICKLY shows you the correct answer: Carlson's web site (choketubes.com) shows you what chokes install in most every shotgun. Your Stoeger Coach Supreme takes: Stoeger Coach Supreme Uplander (Side by Side) Shotguns Interchanges with Carlson's Winchester, Browning Invector & Mossberg 500 style threads Trulock Chokes says that for a Stoeger 12 gauge Coach gun: interchanges with Trulock’s Win-Brn-Moss style. That is, the Winchester, Browning Invector or the Mossberg 500 style tubes. SERIOUSLY doubt a Remington RemChoke style choke tube will fit. good luck, GJ

Well, all my Dillon carbide sizing dies have a threaded stem with the decapping pin on the end, and the stem unscrews easily. Then you can drive the case down and out with a hammer and a stout brass punch stuck through the top of the (now open) die. Why can't you accomplish that? Any good stuck case remover will let you pull a case, but it takes a drill and ability to tap a thread (tools include proper drill bit and tap). A vise is very handy too. But it will take 5 times longer to pull the case with a case remover, and I've not had to do that on straight wall (pistol) cases. Use some Kroil lubricant to soak the complete die overnight and that will often wick into the junction between case and die body. Makes most any removal effort a little easier. good luck, GJ

Well, if you think that is your only route forward, then that's what you think. Don't understand what you are asking us for if several experienced reloaders give you the same conclusions. One load suggestion I saw in one of those citations is down right guaranteed to be dangerous......20 grains of "some shotgun powder" to load a pistol cartridge.......yikes! Guess in this part of the world we're fortunate to have at least some options other than waiting for situation to get better. good luck, GJ

Because the word "MAY" is in the instructions, it is not required for the shooter to try to make up ANY Texas star misses! It's just an option offered to the shooter. After first five rounds are fired, a different target type becomes "active" and the five stationary targets become "inactive". So, no P for hitting any of them with the second five shots. So, 5 misses for TS plates not dislodged. Next. good luck, GJ

Some of the worse advice going. Because factories load with non-canister powder (stuff that is not available to reloaders) made cheaply and only to a particular performance specification, which they would not "tell their mother on their death bed." If you were to use it in low pressure pistol cartridges, there's PROBABLY minimum risk. Because you can fairly well watch for pressure signs in cartridge loads. In shotshells, it would be a lot like playing Russian Roulette, since the max safe pressures are very low, and plastic hulls and shotshell primers do not let you see accurate pressure signs. Probably lots better to switch to Black Powder or subs. good luck, GJ

First, check carefully for any "set screws" or pins that might be holding the sight on. Not common for Ubertis, but you can never tell what a smith might have done in the past. Probably, if the gun has been in the wet often, it's rusted in place. I find Kroil and a heat gun is about the best technique to loosen that. Tap that lightly during the soak to add some vibration to increase penetration, and let the Kroil work for 12 to 24 hours. Most fastener locking liquids will also weaken up with heat gun heat. I would NOT get a barrel hot with a torch to the point of showing a little red heat. Too much chance of oxidizing the rifling. If all else fails, with a hack saw cut CAREFULLY across the sight until you get down to within a few tens of thousandths of an inch from the dovetail in the barrel. That will release any binding pressure from the sides of the dovetail and probably let you break it free. good luck, GJ

Describe exactly how the feed failures sit in the action and we can make a real good guess. But failing to feed GOOD lead bullet loads when the gun feeds jacketed rounds, usually means the feed ramp and barrel entry ramp need to be fitted and smoothed. Take a couple of pictures of how rounds stop in the action when it won't feed, post 'em. Post a couple pictures of the loaded rounds you are making, too. Seating too long and having rounds stick in the throat of the barrel is a VERY common problem for folks loading lead for 1911 for the first few months. Factories do not usually worry at all about whether the gun feeds lead ammo, since 95% of .45 auto ammo shot is jacketed. Used to be Bullseye shooters who needed gunsmiths around. Now it's several action sports, but Wild Bunch may be the biggest users. good luck, GJ

I'd order factory springs for those, from VTI parts house or Taylors or even Uberti USA and hourglass the springs (or have a good gunsmith do them). Wolff, a major maker of coil springs, just won't have anything. And being Uberti Bisleys with an odd shape, doubt you will find anything but the factory spring shapes. good luck, GJ

So, you must make ALL the shots that the other top rank shooters make, then you can go as fast as you think is prudent. I'd call it managed speed. If it's a ten target match, best scores are 9 hits, then the time breaks the ties among the 9-hit shooters. 8 hits and less - not in the running for first. Rarely, it might be scored like a main match (time plus penalty time for misses). A MAIN match IS a speed match, as typically 20% of shooters will clean it. Your most correct source of information about how to shoot and what can be shot is obtained from the person putting the long range matches together. These usually occur only at big matches - state championships, annuals, or regional or bigger matches. Each WILL be put on differently. good luck, GJ

Part availability and smiths to install them are very limited. Whereas a lever gun, even a 92, can be worked on by many. good luck, GJ

Yep, Jim Finch at Long Hunters has done excellent work. Recently did some tuning, huh? Guess Jim is back to working at the shop again. Good news, but a little farther away from the poster's location than is Griner. good luck, GJ

Yes, an OOB incident often will cause a 73 design to bend the lever. The bend is what keeps the lever from contacting the trigger safety plunger, as you picture shows. If you can find an undamaged lever to use as a pattern, it's easy to bend it back to good shape - I've done that to 2 guns and they still run fine. New parts for a Miroku 73 are HARD to buy. If you were trying hard to close an action, slamming the lever, the spring loaded firing pin can fire the round even when the round is partially out of chamber. If you bounce the case up off the channel in the carrier block so the primer gets "speared" by the extractor tip, same thing can happen. If you stuck a slug in the throat of the barrel from a squib or a no-fire case, the next round does not fully chamber and the FP can be carried forward by inertia of loading next round into chamber. A reload with lead shaved off the bullet base, a fat crimp or no crimp at all or very long seated bullet can fail to chamber fully, and FP slams forward if action is worked hard. Your "long story" is going to be about the only clue you have to WHY the OOB happened. Almost all OOBs that I have been witness to (perhaps 10) have been when the shooter was trying to work the action real hard. This is not a gun design that fixes itself by applying more force. Any resistance to normal operation means you have to stop and find out what is wrong. This is not like a Remington 700 or an M1 rifle where you can beat on the bolt handle with a hammer. good luck, GJ

I'm on about 4 years of the use of the same 3 gallons of walnut hull (lizard litter) media, because I always toss a used dryer sheet into the vibratory bowl with each lot of brass I clean. Most of the powder fouling, leftover lube, etc. transfers into the sheet. Of course, I only add a quart of media to any one cleaning batch. Then it all goes back into the big tub. Brass comes out of the bowl in 30-45 minutes as clean as ever. good luck, GJ

A close cowboy gunsmith is worth a lot, both now and in the future for any added work you decide to do on the rifle. For your location, Ken Griner at Griner Gunworks outside Farmington NM might be that fellow. Does GREAT work. http://www.grinergunworks.com/ good luck, GJ

Don't know for sure what you need, so I'll recommend some that deal with period target rifles: Have you tried Buffalo Arms? http://www.buffaloarms.com/ Or Lee Shaver Gunsmithing http://stores.leeshavergunsmithing.com/ good luck, GJ

A whisper spring from The Smith Shop. Smith Shop retired several years ago, Online Outpost took their remaining stock. No more of these remain on Online Outpost website listings. I've got at least 2 in my 73s right now - been running them for 10 years. GJ

Mainsprings, especially lightened ones, will get tired and fail after lots of use. Only getting a year of service out of a new spring is pretty bad. Did the mainspring have a maker's name associated with it? Cold weather is known to slow down gun actions especially if lubed with an oil or grease that greatly slows down the hammer strike. Cold weather more commonly affects how powder burns more than how reliably a primer fires when struck. With only a month to go, look for every opportunity to fire that rifle with the same kind of ammo you intend to run the match on. About all you can do at this point. Besides also shooting the backup some too. good luck, GJ

This game is labeled the Single Action Shooters Society because semi-auto handguns are not used in Cowboy matches. We do have a second competition that uses 1911 design pistols chambered for .45 auto, though. good luck, GJ

Any load that is not considered a magnum or high velocity shell by the manufacturer, and uses lead bird shot of pellet size 4 or smaller . It's a rather loose definition. Winchester used to market a 12 gauge shotshell load that went by the name of Featherlite, and now may still be around as Low Noise Low Recoil. That was the poster child for cowboy matches. But loads typically used for any of the major shotgun clays games would be legal. Cartridges for rifle and revolvers are almost all rimmed cartridges, mostly developed before 1900, firing lead or polymer coated bullets. With velocities for revolvers between 400 and 1000 FPS, and rifles less than 1400 FPS. The Cowboy Action Shooting rule book covers this pretty definitively. Get your own copy from this page: Handbooks in SASS The game is largely played best by reloading. If you don't reload, Cowboy shooting can be done, but it's sometimes difficult to find ammunition that is available and competitive. Buying competitive ammo for the revolvers is often especially difficult. So, most of us reload. But you can get started by buying lead bullet "target" ammo, but avoiding wadcutter bullet designs. And in lever action rifles, also avoiding semi-wadcutter (Keith style) bullets since they may not feed well. COME OUT to a local match BEFORE you start buying guns and ammo and leather, etc. You will be surprised how many friends you will make, and how you will make much better choices! good luck, GJ