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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. First, let a good pistol shooter test POI as well. If he shoots well and on target at 10 yards, then it's you. good luck, GJ
  2. And the forces and recoil reactions make a difference in how a revolver shoots, compared to a rifle. The first thing folks often think about is how bullet drop affects long range rifle shots. There, more velocity results in higher impact AT DISTANCE because gravity works on the bullet for quite a while in rifle shooting. In short range handgun shooting, gravity is not the major influence (force) on point of impact, the direction the barrel is pointed when the bullet leaves the barrel is the major influence. good luck, GJ
  3. You will likely need 10 or 12 working 1911 magazines. They can get stepped on, the base plate bent, the lips tweaked, and the interior filled with dust and sand during a match. Yeah, you may take along some spray cleaner and lube, but nothing is easier and more reliable during the match than to turn to a known good, clean, replacement magazine when a disaster happens. Yeah, that almost certainly meant that the bearing surfaces of the stops which press against the carrier sides to open and allow next cartridge to feed out of magazine were worn from 60 or a hundred years of use. So, rather than welding on replacement metal, bending the stops to open "earlier and more completely" is also a great way to fix the problem for a long time to come. Glad you found a smith skilled at "getting 'er done." Cody is certainly one of our best smiths! good luck, GJ
  4. If you want quality restoration: Run-N-Iron in Bertrand NE 308-472-1445 Turnbull in Bloomfield NY 585-657-6338 If you want a deep clean and minor repair, I'd go to LongHunter or Ken Griner (see gunsmith list in the FAQs) good luck, GJ
  5. Don't confuse the conditions for HANDLING a firearm safely with the conditions for LAYING ONE DOWN safely. One can unload any of our firearms at any time on the firing line if gun is kept pointed safely down range. Shuck shotgun shells, lever out rifle rounds, punch out of cylinder some revolver rounds - all the same. NO Call. GJ
  6. No, we're kinda like target shooters, only much more fun. good luck, GJ
  7. PAM - equal parts hydrogen Peroxide, rubbing Alcohol and Murphy's oil soap. The alcohol ensures quick drying, the oil soap leaves a natural oil layer on the metal. Never have had a rust problem. The BP fouling dissolves in water, which the hydrogen peroxide and the rubbing alcohol both contribute. Never affects bluing. Safe on wood - in fact, it cleans and shines the wood. Smells good. All natural, and one could even drink it with no harm other than loosening up your intestines. No, don't drink rubbing alcohol, in case you didn't know it. And cheap, too. I usually cut down the oil soap amount to make a cheaper mix. Store in a hydrogen peroxide bottle with a new label. Cleans kitchen grease as well as 409, too. good luck, GJ
  8. All my pistol bullets for (smokeless) Cowboy AND Wild Bunch are cast at 8-10 BNH. Even for .45 auto loads. That's all the hardness needed to be pushed down the barrel with up to about 15,000 PSI chamber pressure. That means it's about half and half COWW and soft lead. With 1% by weight of tin. Most difficulties with cast bullet fill out are better corrected with a little more mold temperature, rather than adding tin. And for cowboy "minute of steel" accuracy, perfect bullets are not even necessary. Harder alloy than that, and several of my loads with conventional bullet lube would leave a little lead in barrel, especially the 1911 pistol. Most cast bullet gurus attribute that to a little bit of gas cutting lead off the shank of the bullet because the bullet is too hard for the low pressure to obdurate the bullet diameter to perfectly fit the barrel. good luck, GJ
  9. One more reason never to slam the action lever OR the clearing rod when a live round is still in the rifle. The easiest part of the action to have impacted the primer was the extractor tip. The cartridge support tab is a possibility, but it does not have as much projection out from the bolt face. Putting a rag or a chunk of leather just behind the case head before slamming the clearing rod into the barrel would probably have prevented a dangerous discharge, too. good luck, GJ
  10. Best quality magazines are a VERY wise investment if you are going to shoot a 1911, especially in a hard usage like WB. Most competitors eventually move on up to Tripp magazines. Order direct from the manufacturer. https://www.trippresearch.com/store/index.html good luck, GJ
  11. Does the dark color wipe off easily with a little bore solvent? The dark area is what is contacted by most sizing dies, so powder fouling would be spread out over the darker section of the case if it was not removed by tumbling or vibratory cleaning before sizing. The "clean" section is prevented from entering the sizing die by the shell holder. good luck, GJ
  12. Outlaw Gambler in Wisconsin The Dusty Bunch Shop in Casa Grande, AZ
  13. Which is why one needs to follow the directions, and not use standard hardware store "boiled linseed oil" or even worse, raw linseed oil. They may be cheap, but they have real drying/hardening problems. I've got over 25 guns with TO or LS finish. It just plain works, regardless of what various forums have led folks to believe. Each coat MUST be applied very thinly and allowed to set well. A clean hand is the best application tool. Certainly not a bristle brush or even a lint-free cloth. And, if you use a rag to spread or pickup linseed for any reason, even for cleaning the floor, realize it is an auto-ignition problem as the linseed oil polymerizes. Discard those oily rags in a metal covered bucket until they dry out. good luck, GJ
  14. Check wood inside of the buttstock (or even forearm) to make sure you don't have wood swelling to touch the hammer or other action parts. Remove any that does touch moving parts. Make sure forearm iron attachment screws are snug so the cocking mechanisms work properly instead of being shoved around. good luck, GJ
  15. Take a look at the inside surface of the Uberti grips. If that is a peachy to light pink color wood, you probably will be more pleased getting replacement grips. Uberti is kinda famous for spraying on a combination red stain/polyurethane finish. Cheap, fast, and even simulates some grain, whether the wood really has any or not. After stripping, if you have trouble with the residual red stain not being able to be tamed by applying a brown stain over it, I've had good luck pulling it out by soaking the walnut for a day in Naptha (aka white gas, aka Zippo fuel). Not auto gasoline - too many extra additives Takes out ALL remaining gun oil and oil based stain. Do this outdoors away from fire sources. Let dry for a couple of days. Then do the final prep work and apply finish. Agree - avoid all sanding. If needed, use some bronze wool to knock off any whiskers and saw dust. Disagree that a proper linseed oil based gun finish will "leak" oil. I use both TruOil and LinSpeed (both are modified boiled linseed oil finishes). I shoot in some of the hottest weather around (like Tombstone and Phoenix). Never have had the finish ooze anything or even soften. Linseed oil polymerizes (like plastic) with the oxygen in the air, and it can take a few days to couple of weeks for this to happen. But applied in thin coats and with the correct waiting periods, I have not found any finish that is as deep and easy to repair if scratched or chipped as the gun type linseed oils. And it's totally "authentic." good luck, GJ
  16. Yep, so let me state history more correctly. Let me know if there's still parts that are incorrect. All the Uberti 38-caliber 1866s have been chambered in .38 Special. Both the early shorter-length action, and the current long-length action made since about the mid 1980s). You won't likely find a short-length action any more at any shop, they have been out of production so long). And some important parts are hard to impossible to get. These 66s have also been made in several other chamberings, including .44-40 and .45 Colt. Even .22 rimfire. All the 38-caliber 1873s have been chambered in .357 Magnum, and all have been made on the long-length action. MANY of those are being shot successfully with .38 Special ammo, either loaded long or with some modifications made to the carrier block. Likewise, other chamberings for the 73 have included .44 Magnum, .45 Colt, .44-40 and .38-40, and .32-20. Even .22 rimfire. (As you can deduce from my shoddy accuracy writing about 1866 models, I have less than a passing interest in that model, having in the past tried to make one of those early Uberti short-action .38 special guns run fast and reliably in matches. ) good luck, GJ
  17. The first several years of their startup production, Uberti built .38 Special marked 66s (and maybe some 73s). They made these to function with the length of the first .38 Special ammo they got their hands on, which was military 38 special with a full metal jacket with a round nose. So, the action length is only about 1.450". After about 1986 or so, they started making .357 Magnum marked rifles so they could standardize all their machinery to make 1.600" actions (standard for .357,. .44-40 and other WCF cartridges, and .45 Colt - even .44 magnum. They have not made any of these short action rifles since. So you won't find a gun made in the last 30 years that is marked as a .38 Special chambering. There are now tens of thousands of us Cowboy shooters shooting .38 specials in our .357 chambered Uberti rifles. having 1.600" actions. But if you really won't take the time to make sure your ammo and rifle will feed .38 special ammo shorter than 1.550", another way to approach this is to load .357 brass with loads similar to .38 special velocities. And another way is to choose to use "long" nosed bullets in .38 specials. Which will mean loading your own ammo for sure. Do some talking with folks in your local club about these two approaches and see which will better "suit your rifle" (to hack up a John Wayne line). good luck, GJ
  18. Because of the dimensional and even parts variability found in most 73s, if you are going to have a 73 built by a smith, you should provide at least a cartridge OAL that you plan to use. Even better, provide 100 rounds of loaded ammo for a very good functionality test. good luck, GJ
  19. First let's get it clear - Are you asking about a lube groove or a crimp groove? "No lube grooves" at all are generally intended for a handgun bullet that will be powder coated. A modern development. "No crimp groove" often indicates a bullet that was designed for a semi-auto cartridge where only a taper crimp will be used. Roll crimps on revolver rounds are easier to apply firmly if mouth is pushed into a crimp groove. Your question about adjusting OAL of the loaded cartridge tends to make me think you are asking about crimp groove or no crimp groove. Having no crimp groove and a moderately soft alloy makes it VERY easy to adjust seating depth (and thus OAL) very precisely - just roll the crimp right into the band or shank area of the bullet where you end up with desired OAL. I've designed a couple of bullet molds that intentionally have no crimp groove, so the roll crimp can be placed as desired. good luck, GJ
  20. The 73 lifter block has an angle machined into the front face that returns the "second" cartridge back into the magazine tube AS LONG AS THE RIM IS NOT SO FAR REARWARD AS TO CATCH THE FLAT INSIDE SURFACE OF THE CARTRIDGE CHANNEL INSTEAD OF THE RAMP. This ramp is called the "cartridge return ramp." So, you can measure that "flat" length inside the cartridge channel of your lifter block to get the minimum length of cartridge you can feed without jamming up the gun. Now, there is extra brass in the factory carrier block! If you are careful to measure how much brass is there, you can file the "cartridge return ramp" back to just about 1.420" on most blocks, and get shorter cartridges to run more successfully (down to about 1.430" OAL or so). Trying to get the ramp to allow shorter cartridge length than that, and you take a risk of filing back into the cavity for the lifter arm, ruining the block. I have re-sloped the factory Uberti blocks in .38/357 rifles to allow the use of cartridges as short as about 1.45" 100% successfully. Be aware that making the ramp angle more shallow like this means you do have to apply just a little more force to the lever because you are always shoving the cartridge stack back into the mag tube against the pressure of the mag spring, as the lever is closed and the lifter rises. So, obviously, you want to trim the mag tube spring to as short a length as will always feed the last round out of the tube. I find leaving 3" of free length on the uncompressed mag spring is enough if your spring is fresh. As with many things, this is a balancing act between how short a cartridge you want to run, and how light a lever stroke you want to have. But, balky feeding of the next round is never acceptable. An overall cartridge length of about 1.45" is quite achievable with the factory carrier block modified to make the return ramp more shallow. I set up a .38/357 Uberti lever gun to do that for a very fast lady shooter, and by loading .38 specials with standard bullet designs, the length of cartridge was good enough to run flawlessly. BTW - A truncated cone bullet design will automatically add 10 or more thousandths to the OAL in a .38 special load using same weight bullets as a RNFP. good luck, GJ
  21. Scammers abound right now on the Internet. No credit card payment option? No way. No in-real-life location provided? No valid telephone number and business hours? Just started up in the last couple of years? ALWAYS claim to have lots of product in stock, even when your local stores haven't seen any in a year? Don't charge HazMat or explain the shipping charges up front? Ask your local club members where they have been getting supplies. Follow their lead! good luck, GJ
  22. Yeah, better having tuneup and stock fitting done by a target shotgun mechanic. Most of the cowboy smiths will likely have little idea how to get an over-under into good shape for better clays success. You probably do NOT want to have them "ease" the action any. The hinge fitting of an over-under gun comes just a little tight on purpose - to let the gun have a long life before the hinge has to be rebuilt. Keep it well greased and shoot a thousand rounds through it, and the action will be fine. Triggers might need lightening slightly. I've got two Citoris, neither needed trigger work. And don't even think of having someone cone the breech end of chambers - all the resale value of the gun will be gone. Nor shorten the barrels. I'll second Brileys for good target shotgun work. https://www.brileygunsmithing.com/ But possibly even better work at Cole Fine Guns in San Antonio. https://colegun.com/san-antonio-texas-gun-shop/ good luck, GJ
  23. Well, no where near enough powder. With 40% nitroglycerin in TG powder, it takes a good charge weight and resistance of the payload to get the pressure up. Titewad is indeed a much better light shotshell load powder, I'll agree. good luck, GJ
  24. The uncompressed mag spring needs to be at least 3" longer than the mag tube. You can use a Remington 870 pump shotgun mag spring and trim to the length you need. Mag tube needs to be spotless and very lightly oiled, same with the mag follower. A lube that dries to touch like Eezox or Boeshield T9 is what you need for lubricant in the tube. Check that both shell stops are pivoting far enough to let the rim of the hull emerge from the magazine as the action opens. These get dirty and quit opening fully. DO NOT LOSE the small screws that hold them in. good luck, GJ
  25. Move on up to a spray can of CLP (or one of several modern bore cleaners). Cleans better and no glass and no banana oil smell. good luck, GJ
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