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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. How about looking closely at the barrel forcing cone, right at the breech end of the barrel. Look for lots of lead fouling, or even a crack in the barrel. And, BTW, how COLD was your ammo at the time you had the problem? Cool or cold morning? Ammo left in the weather overnight, possibly? Cold weather makes inconsistent loads even more pronounced for most powders, including TB. I'd agree strongly with Cliff Hanger. This was likely a low-powder detonation due to the bullet starting in the forcing cone just due to primer, then a delayed ignition of the powder with bullet firmly stuck in the barrel/cylinder gap. Solution to this DANGEROUS situation is to LOAD NO LESS THAN MINIMUM RECOMMENDED POWDER CHARGE WITH TRAIL BOSS POWDER!! TB does not really give a consistent load (even for Cowboy) until you get to the midway point of published loading data ranges. If you want really light loads, use 700-X, Red Dot, Clays or other powder that is proven to work well in light loads. Good luck, GJ
  2. Umm, second view is a Front view of the carrier. Directions on firearms should always be determined as the gun is held in shooting position. (The view is from the front of gun. The front of the carrier is shown. That makes it a front view.) Good luck, GJ
  3. Yep, looks like Boyd's are still making them: https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/content/resource-center/gunstocks/winchester-97-12-ga-stock-500622j15zz Good luck, GJ
  4. Well, we are not "re-enacting" the Old West. It IS a fantasy game. Screwdriver holsters, either hung from gun belt or attached to a holster side, are in wide use in SASS matches. Go for it! Good luck, GJ
  5. Toggle link guns can be tuned to handle .38 specials very well. And, long nosed bullets can be used in .38 special cases for the real "tough nuts" guns. They are less OAL dependent than many pivoting carrier guns. Shoot .358 sized bullet when running lead slugs. Most jacketed will be 0.357" diameter. The barrel groove diameters are VERY consistent on these - slugging the barrel will almost always show 0.357" Quality was discussed when you asked this a couple days ago. 24" barrels are not the favorite of many. Big tall fellers handle them best. Good luck, GJ
  6. I've seen damaged lever bosses on Uberti toggle guns after 250 rounds fired. I'm with Marauder - get rid of the heavy and shard edged factory lever and lifter springs, immediately! Good luck, GJ
  7. I'll not discuss the Henry centerfires, other than to say I'd be more inclined to cuss them (nice workmanship, but low strength materials, and lousy designs for cowboy shooting). .22 Henrys excepted from those comments. The Miroku Winchester models are very well built, and more "ready to run" right from the factory. The current lack of speed parts limits their penetration in the cowboy shooting market, however. They tend not to use as pretty a wood, in general, but Miroku sure puts a good fit and finish on the metal. If I wanted a "minimal hassle" cowboy gun, the Miroku would be my choice. Almost all Uberti guns I've had need much more hand fitting work than the Mirokus, in order to get the most out of the gun design. They are often not smoothly fitted and are over-sprung to keep the factory workforce from having to do that hand fitting themselves. Typically made of quality materials, except screws are usually softer than normal, so they can be damaged easily and are prone to stretching the threads so the screws won't hold tight. That is the main reason Uberti torques them very tight at the factory. So, I consider any Uberti as being a "pre-assembled kit gun." Folks who enjoy a smooth and fast running gun will have tuning and smoothing done, or do it themselves. Especially rough are their cap and ball revolvers. Often almost unworkable from the factory, but they can be tuned to be nice shooters. Almost all Uberti guns have "good bones" and a nice finish. But their guts need serious attention to make the guns run like they look. Rossi has made some nice guns in the past, but the quality has suffered as they try to advance into more modern manufacturing equipment and less hand work. Pietta has come a long way with their revolvers, and now IMHO are building better guns than the similar Uberti models. But no rifles. There's my opinion. GJ
  8. In factory form, yes. Lee Shaver (and probably others) convert Uberti HighWall actions to leave hammer cocked when closing the action. Good luck, GJ
  9. Think you will be very disappointed in the range of .22 shot shells! I used a bunch when I was a kid, and was lucky to get even a few sparrows that I shot at 20 feet. Never wanted to try it on squirrels after that result. Use CB caps, or the CCI Quiet 22 LR shells if you don't have a "bullet fall" potential hazard within a mile. Or a .22 pellet gun with several strokes if you do. Good luck, GJ
  10. Piano-wire lever and lifter springs are very worthwhile, lighten the action a little and prevent fast wear on the lever boss. Tube alignment - only benefits a .38/.357 rifle, and then only slightly for most folks. Would not start out in game with one. Light safety spring - almost a requirement for easy operation of lever New tube cap - yes, some folks make an allen socket cap, well worth having. Jackaroo used to sell them, and may chime in about his source of them. Whatever one you install, lube threads with Never Sieze. And clean and dry-lube the inside of the magazine tube, too! Hardened screws - VERY worthwhile. I don't shoot a 73 without doing the screws and lever safety spring and light main spring. Coil mainspring - not all that much improvement over a lightened flat main spring. See the Smith Shop or Long Hunter Supply for a good one. Good luck, GJ
  11. There's powder baffles made to fit the Dillon hoppers that help with keeping the weight of the powder off of the powder being dispensed. I find them very helpful. And, different powders settle different amounts. Dense ball powders not much. Large flake much more settling. Good luck, GJ
  12. The choice that is to be offered is: Take a Reshoot OR Keep original results. Decision is made BEFORE the reshoot is performed. If shooter chooses the reshoot, nothing (except penalties earned on the first run, which carry forward) from the first run counts. Allowing "better of two runs" type of choices - lots of shooters will be taking that bet, for perhaps undeserved reasons. Good luck, GJ
  13. No. But there is a year code on the barrel (2 characters inside a square), which is what most folks use for any Italian made firearm. Here's what to look for and how to determine the year of proofing of the barrel/action. https://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?50321-Uberti-SAA-production-tables Or even better, this up-to-date chart from Beretta. https://berettausa.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/101/session/L3RpbWUvMTI5OTcwNTMyNy9zaWQvbUlUWUt3b2s= Good luck, GJ
  14. Two contradictory directions - perhaps would help OP to be made a little more clear. GJ
  15. Navy Arms 66 gun that I had at one time was a Uberti made piece, and was marked so, but not very prominently. good luck, GJ
  16. Except here in the southwest, where some are called Chispas!
  17. A 2005 rifle will need the new style bolt AND the new style firing pin extension AND the new style extension key parts. Minor fitting may be required. Might want to get a new extractor and extractor pin while you are at it, as a real old bolt will have a pretty worn extractor. And, if a real new bolt which does not have one installed, the replaceable cartridge support tab. That makes one more change in the toggle gun bolts - when Uberti recently (2-3 years ago) went to a replaceable cartridge support tab, right? Good luck, GJ
  18. STEEL shot will rebound very strongly off of our steel targets. Make sure no shooters EVER use steel shot shells in cowboy matches or practice, no matter how cheaply they bought them. Good luck, GJ
  19. I call a jam to be any condition that keeps the action from being worked. A misfeed or failure to extract/eject will involve ammunition as well. Either can fall under the general term, calling it a jam until the shooter figures out if the gun or the ammo is the primary cause of failure. A 73 Uberti will be using the small drift pin, 1/16" diameter that holds the extractor tail in the top of the bolt. That small pin sometimes works out of the bolt far enough to one side or the other that the pin catches on part of the frame as the bolt starts to retract. To see if this what is jamming the action, close the bolt/lever completely. Look down into the case ejection opening on the top of the frame, and you see the bolt. About 0.4" in front of the rear of the opening, just outboard of both edges of the extractor, is where that pin goes through the bolt to hold the extractor in place. Feel and look at that spot. If there is nothing sticking out of the bolt surface, you don't have that particular problem. But if you do, the bolt won't cycle back and forward cleanly. To fix, the bolt would be taken out, perhaps a new pin installed and filed down smooth to follow the surface of the bolt. Good luck, GJ
  20. For heavy loads, yep. For target or standard loads in the .45 Auto, Winchester's other jewel of a powder is fantastic (WST). Good luck, GJ
  21. If your TITLE is correct and you want the barrel relined: Perhaps Randy Redman's in Oregon. You'll have to call him, as 32-40 is not a liner that he lists on his web page. https://redmansrifling.com/gun-barrel-relining/ Or Run-n-Iron in Nebraska. http://www.runniron.com/index_cowboy.html Wayne York: http://www.oregunsmithingllc.com/Reboring-Relining-MuzzleBrake.html This feller I have not heard reports about: Larry Romano http://www.romanorifle.com/22601.html If you want a new complete lever-action barrel installed (like your text hints), then lots of gunsmiths can do a great job of it, but it depends upon what make and model you are talking about. Run-n-iron or York among these would be who I would call first. Run-n-Iron does a lot of restorations so they know their way around protecting a valuable antique gun. Good luck, GJ
  22. I use WST because it burns about as clean as any of the pistol powders. It's the most accurate target pistol powder I have found. It works in all my cowboy and wild bunch cartridges, including making absolutely great shotshells. And it meters VERY accurately. A load that WILL ALWAYS make power factor with ease for your 230 grain cast bullet is 4.3 grains of WST in your .45 AUTO case. It you ever find one labeled ".45 ACP", you can just about bet it came from Europe. Good luck, GJ
  23. The best printed manual that supports cowboy cartridge loading and is fairly current is the Lyman 4th Edition Cast Bullet Handbook. As listed on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Cast-Bullet-Handbook-4Th/dp/B004DWBKQY/ref=pd_lpo_14_t_0/138-5419020-5136541?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004DWBKQY&pd_rd_r=1a8a3c02-4362-4356-9db1-e10bb0504f7a&pd_rd_w=HroOm&pd_rd_wg=CrsGY&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=56PYV73DZ8TYSZ8D4Y06&psc=1&refRID=56PYV73DZ8TYSZ8D4Y06 It's low end loads are a little warmer than some cowboys shoot, but it gives you a good safe range to pick from. Not many of the really mild cowboy loads are published anywhere except right here. When you need a specific load, just ask! Good luck, GJ
  24. OP did not get cans with the powder! Strongly agree with labeling whatever containers are used. As I stated above. Good luck, GJ
  25. Grip panels - I would wait until original finish looks poorly. Then strip chemically and apply a gun stock linseed oil finish. Like Linspeed or TruOil. Both of which provide a finish that can be easily retouched with more BLO type finish. You can't really put anything on varnished wood pistol grips to keep them in perfect condition. Wax will make them slippery. Good luck, GJ
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