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Territorial Governors
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About Crisco

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    Rattlesnake Gulch Rangers, Apple Valley Marshals

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    Richland, WA

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  1. Using CominAtCha as an example, the category is handled as above, but each category is shot on a different shift, which makes it work. Your results may vary, but the only times I’ve seen it done on a single shift match it resulted in having posse members that did nothing but shoot while everyone else carried their weight.
  2. If threaded for chokes, don't shoot it without them. The cylinder bores referred to above are often simply barrels that were cut off, thereby removing the choke. I would suggest using those that came with it, and if you decide you want a more open pattern, buy a couple of cylinder choke tubes. From what I have seen, the lighter the load you shoot, the more you will appreciate having some choke to get more shot on the target.
  3. Some insight into the period from the instructions issued with Sharps rifles: “Instructions for Re-Loading Metallic Shells The cartridge issued with the Sharps Company's Arms are made up of shells that are susceptible to being re-loaded and fired many times. After the cartridge has been fired, the following process must be strictly observed in re-loading: Bore a hole in a piece of hard wood, the size of the body of the cartridge, leaving the rim of the cartridge even with the surface of the board, in which place the empty shell. Perforate the exploded cap on one side of its centre with the awl, and pry out the exploded cap; clean out the debris in the small end of the exploded shell perfectly, and insert a new cap in the head of the shell, setting it home snugly by pressure. Charge with 70 grains of powder, with a pasteboard wad upon the powder, forcing the wad down the full length of the follower. Insert upon the wad a lubricant disk composed of one part of pure beeswax to 2 parts sperm oil in weight, to occupy 3/16 of an inch in length of the shell. Dip the base of the ball [bullet] up to the forward ring [grease groove] in the melted lubricating compound, taking care to fill the grooves. Insert the point of the ball in the chamber of the Ball Seater, and introduce the shell through the circular orifice at the opposite end of the Ball Seater, and press the shell home with the hand on a soft piece of wood. Wipe the cartridge clean and it is ready for use.” I know the question was about primers, but more interesting in its entirety.
  4. I will just add that the smaller the shot, the better they will perform out of a pistol. If you can find a few ounces of #12 you will be impressed by how they work.
  5. Last time I bought any they were lubed with SPG, the best there is, but the bullet design doesn't really carry enough of it to completely avoid some hard fouling buildup up toward the muzzle. Easy enough to deal with by swabbing the bore every couple or three stages, but can't really be ignored.
  6. I’m a little past 2 years waiting for my .44-40 Vaquero cylinders from Al Story/BRC barrels. They sent a pair for New Vaquero’s last year and they were beautiful, but I only had one pistol they fit so had to send them back. Based on those 2 they are worth waiting for, but they only do one batch a year...

    Hey Crisco;


    What is your Unique load for 45 ACP? If you have one for 45 Colt I would appreciate that as well.

    Trying to help Scout Brown. He bought an old can at a gun show.


    Marshal Stone

    1. Crisco


      Sorry I didn't notice your note for a few days.

      These days I usually load the .45ACP with a 200gr LSWC and 6.0 Unique.  With a 230 LRN I use 5.5 Unique.

      In .45 Colt I load a 250L with 7.0 unique.  I've tried lighter bullets in the .45 Colt and was never happy with them unless the load far exceeded SASS guidelines (all the soot and unburned powder issues experienced by the folks that try to make a .45 act like a .38...).


  8. Our knockdowns (mostly US poppers) are 3/8" AR500 with 1/2" pipe stick welded to the bottom to mount in our bases. For static targets we've been using 3/8" and 1/2" mild steel for years, and they age pretty well with lead bullets and cowboy loads, but are getting too heavy for most of the folks willing to come out and help these days (not to mention being easily and heavily damaged by boneheads with rifles). We are gradually changing over to 1/4" AR500 targets with a small rectangular slot centered near the top so they can hang from a hook made of 3/8" AR500. Very much like what MGM sells for Steel Challenge if you want to see examples. We initially went with 3/8" AR500, but I saw another club using 1/4" 18"x24" targets that are aging very well in speed steel matches, in which they are getting worked over heavily with jacketed 9mm, .40S&W, & .45ACP, from both pistols and carbines. Since then everything I buy is 1/4" and they are much nicer to haul around. I just go to Pacific Steel with a cardboard template or drawing and they use a plasma cutter; I've not seen any issues with wear or such in the heat affected areas. For long range targets (and even Plainsman rifle targets) the 3/8" AR won't crater, but starts to bow pretty quick when it gets whacked with a few 405 or 500 grain bullets.
  9. Can't answer definitively about the "antique" classification but will tackle the concern noted above about getting them back into the US. SImply fill out a customs form 4457 and have the guns verified by a customs officer BEFORE leaving the states. This form provides the proof that you took them with you so you will not be accused of importing them on your return.
  10. I'm sure it's been longer than I think, but Numrich Arms (now Gunparts Corp) used to sell conversion kits to change your model 94 over to .44 Magnum. I think the "kit" may have consisted of nothing more than a barrel and carrier/lifter. If so, that will answer your initial question, at least for the larger cartridge.
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