Jess Money Posted July 14, 2015 Posted July 14, 2015 I did a search but came up negative for the subject matter. I've been able to do most everything needed to get my M220 to run smoother....except for changing those blasted cocking rod springs! I would imagine someone on the forum has discovered a fairly simple method of compressing the springs in order to remove the retaining cross pin and top cap to release the springs. I'd really, please, appreciate any information on how you pards accomplish this.
Count Sandor, SASS #74075 Posted July 14, 2015 Posted July 14, 2015 I did mine back in 2008 - assume the design hasn't changed. My bench vise has removable inners that rest on a small "shelf." As I recall, I removed the jaw liners from the vise so the ends of the struts would be supported from beneath, squared the strut between the jaws, and closed the jaws against the ends of the strut, drove the pin downward, then released pressure by slowly opening the vise. The factory springs are often said to be surplus Russian tank springs...that's not too far off! CS Edit to add: Lessons learned from working as a mechanic - compressed springs are trouble waiting to happen! Eye protection anytime you're decompressing anything bigger than a ball point pen spring!
Gunslinger SASS 10706 Life Posted July 14, 2015 Posted July 14, 2015 Make sure that the replacement springs fit and dont bind inside the frame.
Noz Posted July 14, 2015 Posted July 14, 2015 A kitchen fork slides over the rod and helps compress the spring as the rod is held in a vise. It only takes three hands and another body to find the pin and the spring on the first try.
Gunslinger SASS 10706 Life Posted July 14, 2015 Posted July 14, 2015 A small punch, small hammer and a Vice is all that's needed.
Doc Fill 'Em 67797 Posted July 15, 2015 Posted July 15, 2015 Put the compressed spring assembly in your vice with the top cap sticking out. Put a cloth over the vise to catch the cocking rod if it shoots out. Mine moved a little when I tapped out the pin but the cloth caught it. I used Vaquero hammer springs to replace the original springs so compressing them was easy.
Tucker T Fudpucker Posted July 15, 2015 Posted July 15, 2015 Try this site great info, learned a lot of tricks here. http://marauder.homestead.com/cowboy.html
Jess Money Posted July 15, 2015 Author Posted July 15, 2015 Thanks, everyone, for your replies. I tried using the fork like I do when changing Ruger springs but the Baikal spring just bends the fork. I was under the impression that a jig was required as someone had mentioned on another forum. I'll give the vice, hammer and punch method a try. Sounds like fun! An additional question to those of you who have changed to a light set of springs. Have you had any problems with the hanger assembly under the barrels coming loose?
Doc Fill 'Em 67797 Posted July 15, 2015 Posted July 15, 2015 My hangers are fine on mine. If you change to Ruger springs, get the heaviest ones that Wolff carries.
Doc Fill 'Em 67797 Posted July 15, 2015 Posted July 15, 2015 JM, I forgot to mention I put the spring assembly in the vise lengthwise, with the top cap to the right. That way the vise jaws help keep some pressure on the spring to dampen the force when the pin comes out.
Johnny Meadows,SASS#28485L Posted July 15, 2015 Posted July 15, 2015 I use a Bridgeport Mill, Them springs are a bugger. Johnny M.
Jess Money Posted July 16, 2015 Author Posted July 16, 2015 "....Them springs are a bugger...." AMEN! And they caused me to start drinking again.
Jess Money Posted July 16, 2015 Author Posted July 16, 2015 JM, I forgot to mention I put the spring assembly in the vise lengthwise, with the top cap to the right. That way the vise jaws help keep some pressure on the spring to dampen the force when the pin comes out. Thanks for the tip, Doc! Good info.
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