Now a question about the .223 and 5.56 round

[Utah Bob #35998]

I don't see any need in the steel case ammo in an Ar15 unless you are really strapped for cash.

I only use that stuff in the Mosin.

[Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172]

With the amount of ammo that I would use, I agree with you, Bob

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

Both my Bushmaster AR15 carbine and my IWI Tavor bullpup have no issues with steel cased ammo. Both have 5.56 chambers. BTW Hornady produces steel cased match ammo in 223.

Nornady contracts out ALL of it's ammo-They don't load any--

That steel 223 is just re-box'd is all.

LG

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

Barrel wear on chrome is less than on stainless but, for long range shooting, stainless is more accurate.

Competitive shooters usualy swap barrels at about 10,000 rds, but for normal shooters (and below normal like me) you could get 30,000 out of a steel barrel and 40k from chrome. Accuracy will drop some after 5-8000 rds. And of course rapid fire zombie killing will overheat the steel barrel and cause faster wear. Always let it cool down between mags unless ISIS is comin up the driveway.

Chrome is easier to clean and more forgiving of abuse.

Chrome'd chamber and bore doesn't hold on to copper like SS & CM does.

Nitrated bores are show'n some real promise in small-arms. Glock and H&K have used it for decades in their bbl's.

LG

[Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172]

Interesting thing I found in my research for ammunition to feed a black rifle.

Both .223 and 5.56 x 54 rounds:

Wolf Made in Mother Russia

PMC made in South Korea

Armscor U.S.A. Made in the Philippines

Prvi-Partizan Made in Servia

Independence Made in Israel

American Eagle Made in Missouri @Lake City

[Utah Bob #35998]

Interesting thing I found in my research for ammunition to feed a black rifle.

Both .223 and 5.56 x 54 rounds:

Wolf Made in Mother Russia

PMC made in South Korea

Armscor U.S.A. Made in the Philippines

Prvi-Partizan Made in Servia

Independence Made in Israel

American Eagle Made in Missouri @Lake City

 

I have a good stock of the Federal 5.56. (A virtual large amount for virtual Zombies)

I use whatever .223 brass case that's on sale for practice or reloads.

[Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172]

This particular dealer didn't list any AMERICAN AMMUNITION, except Lake City. I just found it odd that the Americans are quiet about their production. We have even shipped our bullets offshore. If I was to purchase I think I would go for the Lake City.

 

$200.00 for 450 rounds

[Marshal Dan Troop 70448]

If they are marked. 223/5.56 you can use either cartridge.

Some AR15 made by Colt, etc. are marked on receivers .223, some marked 5.56, or .223/5.56. If yours is marked .223 also check the barrel marking. If the barrel is marked 5.56 or CMP 5.56, its okay and safe to shoot both .223 and 5.56. Its the throat cut and jump to rifling, also thicker casing if used only in .223 marked barrels that will cause a dangerous situation. If barrel is not marked or marked .223, a gunsmith can cut the throat deeper as per military specs to make using both safe.

For long distance pin point accuracy, .223 barrels are more accuratte, spinning the bullet immediately after ignition, were as a slight deforming sometimes occurs, especially in a heated barrel to make the jump in a 5.56 barrel.

Its the barrel that determines what caliber to shoot. MT

 

ADDED; There are some 5.56 ammo, especially sold in bulk, that is not marked 5.56, nor .223. Mistakenly some have thought it was .223.Its NATO ammo, 5.56, if not marked as such can be determined by the NATO mark on the head, circle, with a plus sign in the circle.

[Gunner Gatlin, SASS 10274L]

Some AR15 made by Colt, etc. are marked on receivers .223, some marked 5.56, or .223/5.56. If yours is marked .223 also check the barrel marking. If the barrel is marked 5.56 or CMP 5.56, its okay and safe to shoot both .223 and 5.56. Its the throat cut and jump to rifling, also thicker casing if used only in .223 marked barrels that will cause a dangerous situation. If barrel is not marked or marked .223, a gunsmith can cut the throat deeper as per military specs to make using both safe.

For long distance pin point accuracy, .223 barrels are more accuratte, spinning the bullet immediately after ignition, weras a slight deforming sometimes occurs, especially in a heated barrel to make the jump in a 5.56 barrel.

Its the barrel that determines what caliber to shoot. MT

Yup. My Colt 6721 receiver is marked .223, but the barrel marked 5.56

 

The Ruger Mini-14 receiver is marked .223 but easily accepts 5.56 ammo. It's in the manual and calling Ruger directly confirms this. I have shot tousands of 5.56 from my Mini-14 w/o issue.

 

But yes, in general if a barrel and/ or receiver is marked only .223 its best to check with the manufacturer. If you don't know DON'T shoot 5.56 through it until such verification can be made.

 

Happy Shooting....

 

GG

[Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172]

Didn't want to hijack Hardpan's thread to I dredged this one up.

 

I have a question on the .223 round vs the 5.56 Nato round.

 

The both take the same case, correct?

They both take the same diameter bullet, correct?

 

Just what is the difference aside from the powder charge? C.O.L. of the rounds?

[Utah Bob #35998]

Bullet is the same. The case however is not exactly the same.

Here's a pretty good run down.

[Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172]

Thanks Bob.