Darksider Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 i want to jewel my uberti 73 rifle that is case hardend. do i need to strip that off before i jewel it? if so what do i use to take it off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ketchum Quick, SASS #72923 Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Yes. To make it look right the CCH has to go. Then the part needs to be polished where the jeweling will be. KQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283 Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Howdy What part do you want to jewel? You do understand the purpose of jeweling don't you? It is to slighty rough up the surface of the metal so it will hold a thin skim of oil. Your question makes me think you want to jewel the frame. Generally speaking, it is moving parts that are subject to wear that get jeweled, not frames. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Pony Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Hey Johnson shouldn't you be at the auction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wild Bill Blackerby SASS # 34989 Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Hey Pony - shouldn't you be on your way. Darksider - go ask Jimmy how. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacknife Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Howdy What part do you want to jewel? You do understand the purpose of jeweling don't you? It is to slighty rough up the surface of the metal so it will hold a thin skim of oil. Your question makes me think you want to jewel the frame. Generally speaking, it is moving parts that are subject to wear that get jeweled, not frames. I thought the purpose of jewelling was to please the owner, if that is what he wants. I have seem lots of hammers and triggers jewelled. Guess that was so they wouldn't wear prematurely, not to look good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darksider Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 i want to do the leaver of the 73 just for the look i need to know how to get the cch off?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzly Dave Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Buy a new lever that isn't CCH and jewel it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fargo Bill, SASS #4942 Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Took mine off a Ruger with Gun Blue remover and Flitz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rancho Roy Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 The Ruger revolvers have an "applied" case coloring. It is a simple paint type finish. It can be easily taken off and to many folks horror, comes off all by itself. The Uberti and other Italian firearms is real case hardening. It will need to be ground and polished off. Depending how deep the case finish went into the metal, this might destroy the item being ground and polished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireball #7709 Life Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 As to the practical benefits, such as lubricant retention and friction reduction, I'll leave that argument for another time. Jeweling will remove blue, Color case colors (whether truly hardened or not), rust and any number of finishes. It is "applied" using abrasives and that IS a finish remover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Long Branch Louie Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 As to the practical benefits, such as lubricant retention and friction reduction, I'll leave that argument for another time. Jeweling will remove blue, Color case colors (whether truly hardened or not), rust and any number of finishes. It is "applied" using abrasives and that IS a finish remover. +1, I buffed off a lot of blue and color case. It is generally not deep and is usually quite easy to get off. I would agree that for the best "look", it would be better to polish before jeweling so it will have a more uniform look... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283 Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 The Uberti and other Italian firearms is real case hardening. It will need to be ground and polished off. Depending how deep the case finish went into the metal, this might destroy the item being ground and polished. Oh my goodness. First off, you are not getting real bone or charcoal Case Hardening when you buy an Uberti. Real Case hardening is an expensive, labor intensive process. You would have to pay significantly more to get real Case Hardening. What you get is a much less expensive process where the parts are dipped in a hot chemical bath, and then quenched in water. It does provide some surface hardening, and it does impart some colors. But it is not the traditional type of Case Hardening that Colt still uses. Secondly, you don't have to grind anything to remove the colors. Whether real Case Hardening or the type Uberti uses, the colors sit on the surface of the metal, they are not infused into the hardened case. The colors of real Case Hardening or the type that Uberti uses are quite fragile and easy to remove. Go to the hardware store and buy some Naval Jelly. Wipe it on and wipe it off and you will wipe the colors right off the part. Without grinding anything. Be careful though, the Naval Jelly will remove blue too. So take the part off of the gun before treating it with Naval Jelly. Follow the instructions on the can to completely remove the Naval Jelly. You will have a nice 'in the white' part. The surface hardness will still be there, only the colors will be gone. Polish the part or not, whatever you want, before going ahead and jeweling it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klondike SASS Life #29713 Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 I have and still jewel a lot of parts. I take the parts I want to jewel and polish them to a very high gloss on the buffing machine. You may need to use 2 or 3 polishing compunds to get it where you want it. It is also easier with a compound tilting machinist vise and a compound cross mill slide table. These work great on your drill press. Also get some practice metal to work on, old 97 bolts, SAA hammers, anything. Are you going to use the brushes or the cratex abrasive rods? P.S. The side plates on a 73 look great jeweled as well as the bottom of the carrier. Send me an email address and I can send you a few pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darksider Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 email sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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