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Uberti Walker Wedge too Tight


Doc McGee, SASS #51213

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The barrel wedge in my Uberti Walker does not fit properly. I purchased it used, noted that the cylinder did not rotate unless rotated both with the hammer and by hand, took both to make it rotate. Even though used, it appeared unfired, note the cylinder problem. Yup, got a very decent price on it.

 

If the wedge is inserted so it is just past flush thru the frame, the cylinder/barrel gap is such that it rotates very well just using the hammer.

 

It shoots OK, the wedge doesn't try to come out, even after a couple cylinders shot with 35 grains and three full 60 grain loads. The 60 grain loads were ust to see what it was like and to make sure everything was seated proper. No more of those.

 

Material probably needs to be removed from somewhere to get the wedge in like it is supposed to be.

 

Now the question, where to remove material, or should I just leave it like it is?

 

Thanks

 

Doc McGee

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Doc McGee,

 

I have two Open Tops that if I put the wedge in any tighter than what you have described the cylinders will not rotate.

 

I have to leave them sort of "loose" in order for the cylinders to rotate.

 

Mac

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I'd leave it be.....

 

It'll tend to seat further as you use the pistol....Shoot it 1000 rounds and see how the wedge is doing then.

 

I wouldn't mess with it at all if it is shooting OK, and the wedge isn't "working".

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Doc McGee,

 

I have two Open Tops that if I put the wedge in any tighter than what you have described the cylinders will not rotate.

 

I have to leave them sort of "loose" in order for the cylinders to rotate.

 

Mac

 

That may just have answered a question that I have had i purchased two Cimmaron open tops from the wire they were unfired, one cocks and rotates easily the other one will do good except on one or two charge holes it seems to bind and needs help.

 

I did not really look at them that closely and I have not shot them..

 

Any input would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Doc

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I've got an 1847 Walker replica that had the same problem. I've heard of people unscrewing the pin the cylinder rotates on and shimming it out to move the wedge slot further out. The problem with my Walker was that the cylinder was not square on the end, it would rotate on some holes, but not others. I mounted it on a mandrel to reference off the inside bore and faced the surface just enough to true it up. Worked fine for me, but as suggested, I'd shoot it some more first and see if it loosens up.

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Mr. Pettifogger,

 

I had heard about your series on Pietta and Uberti tuning. I did keep the Chronicle articles on the Pietta, but missed them on the Uberti.

 

Looks like the arbor modifications needed for my Uberti Walker are the same, the parts of the Walker are just a bit bigger.

 

The instructions are quite easy to follow, aided of course by the quality pictures.

 

Thank you for posting the link.

 

Doc McGee

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Humph!!!!! Pettifogger beat me to it!!! I was going to refer EVERYBODY to his article posted on "The Open Range." Really great stuff.

 

Now, If you own an Open Top type revolver, whether its an 1871/72 Open Top, Conversion, or BP, the fit of the arbor to the Barrel is ......... not good. Please read and re-read Pettifogger's stuff for Open Top guns. Once the barrel fits correctly to the arbor and frame, the guns can be tuned to match anything for durability. Plus, the 1872/72 Open Top and 1851 Conversions point like nothing else we shoot. They do however require some specific set up to function correctly.

 

Coffinmaker

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Mr. Pettifogger,

 

The fit of the arbor into the barrel is definitly off...the barrel overlaps the frame by nearly .030"!!!

 

I'm not even sure that the arbor is bottoming in the barrel recess as the arbor binds up near the bottom. I'll measure those distances to make sure what is happening there.

 

Don't think I'll do much with it until I get the brass spacer installed, looks like the diameter of the spacer will be significantly smaller in diameter than the Walker arbor. That reduction in diameter at the end of the arbor may do the trick so I will not need to fool with the arbor/barrel fit.

 

Ordered a couple of the spacers from Dillon, they should be here in a couple days.

 

Thanks again for your articles. Much obliged.

 

Does make a feller wonder why, since it is a known problem, Uberti does not take steps to correct it. They must think that it is minor and not worth addressing. After all it can be worked around by adjusting the position of the barrel wedge. Sheesh.

 

 

Doc McGee

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Doc M,

 

Manufacturing tolerance. Insures every gun will go together regardless of the skill of the assembly person in Italy. Eliminates needing a Bottoming cutter at the workbench.

 

Coffinmaker

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I think it is also the case that the manufacturers do not realize how hard we run our guns. They still are under the impression that the reproductions are only used by re-enactors and fired rarely if at all.

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Coffinmaker,

Also machine parts with enough clearance (slop) so every thing will go together, regardless of the functionality of the finished product.

 

Noz,

'tis true we don't use our guns for safe queens or wall hangers.

 

Made only one mistake buying this Walker back in '06. The dealer had another one with a sticky cylinder. Shoulda bought it, too. Darn good prices on both.

 

Doc McGee

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I just finished correcting the arbor and wedge fit on my 4th Uberti 1851.

 

Mr. Pettifogger is a genius. Follow his instructions.

 

I found that after correcting the arbor length so that the barrel and frame fit properly, the wedge slot in the arbor was not aligned with the wedge slot in the barrel frame. The wedge would not go all the way through.

 

I ground down the nose of the wedge on one side (it happened to be the side closest to the grip) a tad to get the wedge to seat properly. A wedge is a lot cheaper than an arbor or barrel assembly to replace.

 

Thanks Larsen for your efforts on behalf of all the rest of us.

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