JackSlade

Oh now THOSE are some custom grips i can get behind. I'm normally not a fan of anything other than plain walnut on anything, but french curve engraving does look mighty fine in that distressed color tone.

Could you send that to me too, please. Currently waiting for components to come back in stock to start loading my own Magtech 12g and federal paper loads with 777 Ffg.

I like the name... Shiny.

Yeah I reached out to that YouTuber and he couldn't speak to the wads he was using because he had a box of antique wads that were actually sized correctly for paper hulls. He wasn't using modern fiber wads. I prefer to crimp instead of using an adhesive for the brass hulls. My question was specifically for wad sizing in paper and in brass hulls, but I don't see any definitive answer in either of those charts

So for someone getting started with shotgun loading. I've been scouring the web for answers and it seems everyone has their own way of loading these 2 shells. Is there a definitive answer to the following two questions? For PAPER hulls (Federal), do the nitro card, fiber wad, and overshot card need to be different gauges to prevent bulging? I've heard of people downsizing the fiber wad and nitro wad to 14 gauge. For Brass hulls (magtech), nitro card 11 ga, fiber wad 11 ga, overshot card 10 ga, with 11 gauge working if you crimp hard enough?

I saw a gent post his Uberti Transitional 1860 on GunBroker last month. Nobody wanted to pay 2 grand for a discontinued rifle. If I did get an 1860, it would definitely be that limited run rifle. (It has a loading gate and the tab is removed). But I didn't want to spend all that money while on vacation. If one ever goes back up for auction, I might take a shot at one...

Another quick way to check if your saa clone is a 3 click without even touching it (pictures on GunBroker, etc) is to look at the trigger. If the hammer is down and the trigger is sitting halfway in the middle of the trigger guard, it's a 3 click safety hammer. You can pull that trigger with the hammer down and feel the spring of the rod inside the hammer. If the trigger in the picture is sitting to the rear of the trigger guard, then it's a normal 4 click hammer. If you don't purchase the "kit" from Taylors, you can do what I did and purchase a hammer, new firing pin, firing pin retaining pin from VTI or EMF (the Pietta parts store). You can use the same trigger, you'll just have to grind off the arm that pushes the safety rod on the old hammer. You also may have to file 1/16 or shorter off the new firing pin, or you might get punctured primers. I believe you can use the dime test to verify proper length.

I'm gearing up to shoot/load BP shotgun and I'm curious about how necessary or not it is to lube fiber cushions. I plan on reloading brass and once-fired paper hulls. I know for the brass hulls, some adjustments need to be made to which gauge wads and cards due to the thickness of the brass. Are any other adjustments required for the paper hulls?