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Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933

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Everything posted by Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933

  1. Watched the "new" show. Will not be watching another episode.
  2. The only major smith I see missing is Jim Bowie. As noted in previous posts Shotgun Boogies uses new precision machined replacement parts. As far as I am aware everyone else uses cut and welded original parts.
  3. Do you have an accurate caliper and do you know how to make accurate measurements? The pin should be .098" in diameter. What is the diameter of the pins you have? The closest drill bits are going to be number drills. #40 would be .098" and #39 would be .0995". 2.5mm is .098" and a roll pin has a certain amount of spring to take up tiny variations in OD. If you cannot find the proper size roll pin at your local ACE PM me your address and I will send you one.
  4. Or, put the pin on two washers and put a punch in the center and give it a smack to put a slight bend in the pin.
  5. The problem gun I have was the same way. The interior was hand filed to get the backstrap to fit the frame. These are castings and the exterior of the gripframe and backstrap and screwed together and buffed as a unit. This does not fix any interior fit issues. Those were addressed at the factory with a file. Not terribly noticable on a stainless gun but very noticable on a blued gun. My initial thought was the same as Matthew Duncan's. But, nope, that is the way some of them are coming through.
  6. Just a few things to think about that I addressed in preparing the article. 1. What type of primers are you using? A stock Ruger should fire anything. One of mine did not. It would only reliably fire Federal primers. First photo a Federal primer on the left and a Fiocchi primer that is currently being sold by Sportsman's Warehouse on the right. The one on the right only fired about 1/3 of the time. After hours of investigation and work on the gun Federal on the left and Fiocchi on the right. They are now the same. If you want to try this with EMPTY primed cases remember that when you fire a primed empty case the primer will set back and the cylinder may be difficult to rotate. I popped over 50 primed cases changing things on the gun until it worked the way I wanted. The bottom photo is with a lighter than stock spring in the tuned gun. 2. As previously noted check for hammer drag. I changed to a SBH hammer and the drag got worse. 3. Check for backstrap to frame fit. On the problem gun one side of the inside of the backstrap where it attached to the frame was rubbing on the hammer while the other side had lots of clearance. 4. Check firing pin protrusion. The stock firing pins on my pair of guns only protruded .028". They should protrude about .055". On the stock guns the firing pin dent is deeper than .028" because the firing pin travels further forward through interia. On Federals inertia allowed for a deep dent and reliable firing. On the harder primer the firing pin did not continue forward through inertia. The harder material stopped it's travel. It is unlikely the Ruger firing pin spring is defective. (Ruger does not make conversions.) 5. Poor pawl fit. On about the last 3/32" of hammer travel the pawl reverses direction to disengage it from the cylinder ratchet teeth when the hammer is all the way forward. A poorly fitted pawl puts tremendous rearward pressure on the hammer. Quick check - cock the hammer and then hold it back with your thumb. Pull the trigger and keep your finger on the trigger to hold the transfer bar in the up position and slowly lower the hammer. Does it travel all the way to the frame? In many cases the hammer will stop short of the frame. If it does push the hammer spur forward with you thumb (while keeping you finger on the trigger). The resistance you feel is the hammer overcoming the pawl and to a lesser extent the firing pin spring. On the problem gun that last movement was heavy and felt like the pawl was going over a cheese grater. At this point your options are either to send it to Ruger or send it to a smith for an action job. The article will explain how to fix these problems but who knows when it will come out.
  7. Just bought a pair to do a tune-up article for the Chronicle. One worked fine, the other was a nightmare. The potential problem(s) were interesting in the one gun. Too lengthly to go over here. I will finish the article as soon as possible.
  8. Got so excited you had to check your blood pressure.
  9. That is what it does but it is only about .002-.003". Hardly worth the effort.
  10. I have used large pistol primers while shooting some BP cartridges. They seat a tad deeper but work just fine.
  11. I can see making it deeper, but how do you make a primer pocket shallower? You have my curiosity peaked so I came back and edited this post. Why would anyone want to do this?
  12. In case you have not heard Hodgdon has renamed Titegroup. It is now High Gun. Here is a post I copied from a shotshell reloading site. "I just received this from Hodgdon..............Hello Danny, The High Gun powder is Titegroup with a shotshell name, we felt it was often overlooked for shotshell use even though it is excellent for that. Perfect pattern is however a new powder of its own.Thank youLuke OtteCustomer Service ManagerHodgdon Powder Co.6430 vista dr.Shawnee, Ks 66218"
  13. Do it yourself bacon kit. Slice it any way you want it.
  14. Your original post was not clear. A photo often helps. So here is a short discussion of APP, some photos and maybe some suggestions or ideas. APP has been through numerous iterations. There was light tan, dark tan, light grey, dark grey and now it is black. APP has a reputation for clumping and this has gotten to be less of a problem with each iteration. FIrst make sure there are no clumps. Shake the can really good and dump some in a bowl and stir it around to see if there are any remaining clumps. I just went out to the loading room to do a little experimenting. Here is a photo of some old dark tan APP I found and some of the new black APP. Next let's make sure we are talking about the same thing. Here is a photo of the Dillon funnel set-up. I have also picked out two .32 expanders that I found in my expander drawer. The short one is for rifle and the long one for pistol. Make sure you have the correct expander. The ID should be .200". The OD is around .306. (.32 is nominally .312 so the expander has to be slightly smaller than that for bullet retention.) For the heck of it I took a scoop and dumped some charges with the tan and black APP. If I dumped slowly the powder seemed to through fairly consistently. If I just dumped the whole scoop it bridged. I could not find my old .32 expander that I had in my .32 H&R set-up as I have sold or given away most of my .32 loading gear. On that one I bored the center hole to around .230. This still leaves about .035" wall thickness at the tip of the expander so it still works OK. Another idea would be to make the die into a drop tube of sorts. Take a piece of plastic pipe and shape it so it raises the funnel. That way the power will free fall and spread out before going into the explander. The red thing is just a mock up to give you and idea of what I am talking about.
  15. APP granules are larger than comparable real BP granules of the same "FF" range. APP FFG is about like cannon powder. The granules are huge. FFFG APP is smaller but can still be a challenge at times in a .32. I shot Single Sixes in .32 Mag in Frontier Cartridge Duelist for a lot of years. (And a lot of .32-20s. Same problem.) What a lot of people do is strap an aquarium air pump motor or a hobby vibrating motor like this one on the measure to vibrate it. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Vibration-Vibrating-Electric-Massager/dp/B08265KJLY/ref=sr_1_54?crid=1CK18I0KNOKKD&keywords=small+vibrating+motor&qid=1697427086&sprefix=small+vibrating+motor%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-54 You have to make fabricate some kind of power supply which you can also get off Amazon or a hobby store. Here is a photo of a vibrator on the primer slide of a shotshell loader just as an example. I also put my powder funnel in a lathe and opened the hole just a bit. Even a homemade knocker sort of like some old powder measures had can help. (The little gizmo on the front of the measure.)
  16. That sounds like the retractable firing pin. They have a reputation for the firing pin not locking properly when the trigger is pulled. On a non-short stroke model a typical solution is to replace the hammer and trigger with ones from a standard "four click" model. That won't work with the short stroke as the parts are different and short stroke parts are very hard to find. You best bet may be to find a smith that will pin the firing pin in its forward position permanently and eliminate the retract feature. Since this is a "safety" feature I doubt that Taylor will eliminate it. They will try to fix what is there.
  17. The BIG question the OP has not addressed yet is whether this is a retractible firing pin model. If it is that is where you start investigting for a problem. P.S. Tammy and Sue are the owners of Taylor's and they and the rest of their small crew are wonderful people and great to work with. They are no doubt at Land Run. Wait until Land Run is over and they have had a chance to drive home and try them again.
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