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This is one of the new generation Triumph Bonnevilles. It is made to resemble the originals but with a lot of modern upgrades. It is air and oil cooled. Holds a gallon+ of oil, and has a large Oil cooler to keep things where they should be. I had one back in the 60s... I think that I pushed it as much as I rode it, seemed like I worked on it all the time to keep it going, and had to keep a pan under it to catch the oil leaks. These new ones are a heck of lot better, and have a lot more power. It is 865 cc over-square engine with a 360 degree crank that develops plenty of HP and mid range torque. It does have a counter balancer so that 360 does not hop around at all. It is quite smooth and sounds like a twin should. Those Carbs are phony!, Yep, it is fuel injected, and they are made to look like carbs.Has a input port to change the fuel maps... but I see no need to do that. I've had so my bikes that I can not remember all of them... from small to large, Many big Touring bikes, Crotch Rockets, Dual Sports, Dirt bikes, and a variety of street bikes. I must say that this one handles better than any of them that I can remember. (although my old BSA was pretty nice) I went to buy a new 2016 but they had this 2014 with only 600 mi on it! The 2014 is the identical bike as the 2016. I didn't want the 2017 Bonneville because they are a totally different machine which is larger and has different motor, water cooled, 270 degree crank and cost about twice what I paid for this one. So.................... I got rid of the Honda CTX1300D. Dropping 300# in raw weight was sure nice. I no longer plan to do the long tours so didn't need the big touring bike. This bike just fits the bill here in my mountain area. It's plenty quick, and nimble as a Cow dog. I think that it will be just what I want.

You are sure the chamber is 44-40 and not .44mag?

I'm reminded of the time in San Francisco (where else?) when I walked into the break room at work... three female-type persons were seated at a nearby table; I smiled, and said "Good morning, ladies..." At which one of 'em turned, glowered at me, and snapped "We are WOMEN! We are NOT 'ladies'!" I smiled again and responded "Well then... I reckon you aren't at that," and walked away.

I don't like gunsmiths using the term "cleaned up" when they mean they have to remove metal. It misleads the shooting public into thinking problems with machining are always "just a cleanup". Without pictures, it's hard to say what the fix will have to be, but if you are gouging brass just chambering a round, it's going to be a gunsmith job! Ok, with that out of the way. If there is a gouge below the surface of where the chamber walls should be, that's really tough to remove. A new barrel, a barrel reline or a chamber reline (which isn't done often) are obvious ways to give the barrel back enough metal to cut a clean chamber. If there is a badly cut (partially finished) chamber, it might be possible to remove just a little with a finishing reamer. But it is SO much easier to do chamber reaming with the barrel dismounted from the receiver, I don't think any gunsmith would try to ream while barrel is mounted. If there is just a burr at the entry of the chamber, that can be removed with CAREFUL work with a die grinder or Dremel tool. All depends upon what the damage to the chamber is! Now, IF this is a factory new gun, you have a warranty claim. Let the factory decide how to fix it, unless you are wanting to pay someone to fix it because you don't want for Rossi to get to it. If this is one you bought used from a pard, I'd be talking with the feller about the "undisclosed damage" and how he will be helping you get it fixed. Unless he made it clear that the gun was not suitable to be fired without work on it. Good luck, GJ

Can I send it to you for a steam engine upgrade

Titanium would be the preferred material, DO NOT GET TITANIUM COATED. Steel blades and titanium coated blades will need to be oiled and coated with silicone to keep them from rusting. On the coated blades the titanium will come off and hide rusting. Avoid them like the plague. One with a flat pry-bar like tip is extremely helpful. I would also get one with serrations on the back and a line cutter. Some dive operations will not allow a spear pointed tip, but those are great to have when spear fishing. Having the ability to remove the handle is good as you can clean the blade a lot easier. Many have a metal pommel on the handle, these make great signaling device when tapped on the tank. They can be heard from far away underwater. Long blades are better for spear fishing, but short blades can be mounted to the BC and are extremely handy. Also, bright colors are great if they are dropped.

I got some nice things but the best gift was was daughter, son-in-law and grandson came to visit. That was the best gift.

What we’re going to do is create a fillet of JB Weld behind the tab so once the gate is removed, degrease it, and use some sandpaper to rough up the back side of the tab as well as the base where you will be applying the epoxy. Then just apply the JB Weld to create the reinforcing fillet like below. After it sets but before it fully cures you’re going to need to take a knife or file and trim the material where it meets the tab so that the tab will fit in the notch of the receiver. This is where it must fit. The tab doesn’t actually get pushed all the way into the notch when loading a round and as a matter of fact my tab reinforcement didn’t actually interfere with the notch but I trimmed it a bit anyway. So that’s all there is to it, probably a 20 minute job and this gate should last forever.

I would duck the Taurus and go with the others.