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Slicking 1851 Navy


Dusty Woodman

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I have converted my second Navy recently and find the Kirst products to be really well made and their after service very responsive.  The only issue I have had was really operator error in that the screw that secures the gate to the back plate would work loose and move out into the head space.  Blue lock tite helped that but does not survive my sonic cleaner if I use that. I may consider installing a set screw for a more permanent solution.  

Does anyone have any advice on slicking these things? I have no expectations of making them Vaquero fast, just more reliable and smooth. 

Dusty. 

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Check out Mike Beliveau's videos on YouTube.  He has one or two on that very subject, albeit with non-converted revolvers.  I cleaned up my Armi San Marcos 1851 and 1860 revolvers following his instructions, and they came out really good, in my humble opinion!  

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The backing plate or conversion ring really shouldn't need to go into the sonic cleaner at all.  The fixed conversion rings on my Uberti factory made conversions has never needed anything more than a q-tip and solvent cleaning, even after shooting BP, for decades.

 

As for slicking, all I've done to most of my guns is a spring kit (main spring, trigger/bolt spring) and it makes a big difference.  If you are ever going to shoot it percussion, then you wouldn't want that light of a main spring.

 

Also, regarding Coffinmaker's comment, you can drop a #10 split washer down the arbor hole in the barrel to take up the extra space that shouldn't be there.  Although I shot mine for 20 years before doing that.  Also, if you don't have the two-step hand from Kirst, that made the action a little smoother on my one gun with a Kirst.

Edited by Abilene, SASS # 27489
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Woodman

 

It "Depends." (no, not the ones inna plastic package).   What needs done will depend on whether you're talking about a Uberti or Pietta.  The Uberti will require more work than the Pietta.

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While I've kept mine with a stock mainspring (only shoot percussion), two of the mods I've found that work wonders are replacing the bolt/trigger spring with a wire unit from Heinie and replacing the flat spring for the hand by drilling thru the back of the frame and installing a Ruger plunger & spring from a Blackhawk.  Both improve reliability, and IMO, the "feel" of he action.

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This may not be a path you want to follow given you’re converting them, but I had my 1851’s worked on by Mike of Goons Gunworks and was amazed at his work. You will have a substantial wait, but it’s worth it.
 

I don’t recall all the things he does but I know he puts in a cap rake, a shield where the hammer meets the frame (to keep pieces of cap from getting into the inner workings) a set screw for proper arbor fit, a coil mainspring in place of the leaf spring, and other stuff I don’t remember.

 

Seat of the pants observation tells me cocking effort is about a third of what it was.


http://www.goonsgunworks.com

 

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Thanks for the recommendation. 

I am one of those amateurs in the old world sense of the word. Someone who does it for the love of things. I'm a hell of a woodworker and a fairly good machinist along with other things. Shooting these old style things is something I like to do but why would I let someone else have the fun of doing the work on them? It's just part of who I am. Like when I rebuilt a 56 GMC long bed. I got her running well and then looking good. After that, just didn't thrill me so much so I sold it. I enjoy process more than ownership I guess. 

Dusty

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I will check out the rest of the advice when I get back from the River City regulators shoot this morning. 

Y'all All right great Pancho people and I really appreciate you pointing me in the right direction.

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