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FIE 1858 rem only fire on 2nd or third strike


Lunger Dan

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I've got an old F.I.E. brass frame 1858 Remington I'm working on...ratty looking but functional , that was given to me
Cylinder locks up good-no play, nice and tight
Will only fire on 2nd or third strike no matter what combination I use:
#10 or # 11 caps, remington or cci
original fie nips
treso nips
stock uberti nips
pressed on as hard as possible with stick
Mainspring is for sure not weak or low power, thing cocks like a russian tank
checked internals for anything slowing down the action, smoothed and all looks good

Same nipples and caps work fine on my uberti open top and crappy old fie .31 caliber pocket pistol

Any suggestions?
 

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Probably too much distance between top of nipple and hammer face.
Offhand, I can think of a couple of ways to reduce it.

Put a few wraps of copper wire around the nipple threads, or use a copper washer like they use to sell as "glo plug washers" for gas model airplane engines.

This will bring the top of the nipple closer to the face of the hammer.

I have done this on some of my past cap guns, and it works well.

Second, put a thin washer on the cylinder pin in front of the cylinder.  This will increase the cylinder-barrel gap though, so this is not a first-choice fix.

--Dawg    

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19 minutes ago, Prairie Dawg, SASS #50329 said:

Probably too much distance between top of nipple and hammer face.
Offhand, I can think of a couple of ways to reduce it.

Put a few wraps of copper wire around the nipple threads, or use a copper washer like they use to sell as "glo plug washers" for gas model airplane engines.

This will bring the top of the nipple closer to the face of the hammer.

I have done this on some of my past cap guns, and it works well.

Second, put a thin washer on the cylinder pin in front of the cylinder.  This will increase the cylinder-barrel gap though, so this is not a first-choice fix.

--Dawg    

This actually worked..just tried with a strand of copper chore boy wrapped at base above threads (not with original nips which were short as hell to begin with-but with uberti stock nips)
I will have to do just a hair of brass removal on bottom inner frame so that caps will clear when rotating-they get hung up just a touch..
Thanks!

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When shimming the nipple on the cylinder to move the nipple closer to the hammer, make sure the hammer does not come in contact with the nipple. Contact will flare the nipple end and make seating the caps difficult. This creates a new problem.

 

I have been using stainless steel washers.

Unlike copper or brass, they do not flatten out from hammer striking.

I get washers that are just thick enough to bring the nipple to contact with the hammer when tight.

Then I sand them down until I have a slight gap.

When I get luck, I fine washers the correct thickness for a given cylinder and frame.

 

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before messing around with adjusting nipple heights and all kinds of fun stuff have you checked the adjuster screw for the main spring located in the front of the gripframe? look at the face of your hammer and see if its smooth or has a circle mark imprinted on it. if it's been dry fired a bunch it may not be making good contact with the nipple and they'll need adjusted as mentioned. but i'd take a look at that mainspring first. they do wear out and/or the adjustment screw needs reset. YMMV 

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9 hours ago, Turkey Flats Jack said:

before messing around with adjusting nipple heights and all kinds of fun stuff have you checked the adjuster screw for the main spring located in the front of the gripframe? look at the face of your hammer and see if its smooth or has a circle mark imprinted on it. if it's been dry fired a bunch it may not be making good contact with the nipple and they'll need adjusted as mentioned. but i'd take a look at that mainspring first. they do wear out and/or the adjustment screw needs reset. YMMV 

Oh someone had been dry firing it for sure...theres a perfect circle on the hammer face....I did try the adjustment screw;from not touching to screwed in til it couldn't anymore, as well as a spare main spring I had lying around.
I've got it half figured that this is one of those "who knows" imports from the early seventies-so, quality or control is nil.

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