Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Lunger Dan

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Lunger Dan

  1. Salt bath here also.
  2. Every single one I bought at Roses or Kmart or at a flea market for $50-75, cleaned up and had fun with, then sold;that are now worth $500+ Mosin Nagants for $500...SKSs for 6, Enfields for 6+..... In fact, every one I ever had.... Worst though...the Belgian Fn FAL I had bought before my divorce that was a full auto deactivated for civilian use...all matching, beautiful wood, the whole shebang...I think it was 2 years later the value on that thing went from 1 k to about 5 k-and I sold it for the 700 I bought it for.
  3. The plastic collet/ring which is turned to adjust trim length is very easily broken-I broke mine the first day. Lee will send a new one. Ive used them for 303, 7.5x55 30 carbine and 8mm...there is a big learning curve. setting the collet length right(very little adjustment)pressure and timing. I just let the weight of the drill do the pushing and a count of Mississippi's to get there...Its not as precise a tool as some of the other trim tools which take twice as long or more for each brass. Dont push down..after awhile you'll be able to hear and feel when its done cutting. "The trimmer comes to a rest on the die shoulders when done cutting. " Negative..it comes to a rest on the spring action under the cutting blade which rests on the mouth of the case. Thats why continued pushing will go past the spring action and cut too much.
  4. There are people and storefronts, gun show vendors and dealers I will remember after this "crises" (if there ever is an end) Some, due to their attitudes and practices in these dark days, will never get my business in either good or bad days again. You have the right to run your business as you see fit..I have the right to not use it and let others know .
  5. There is a flat on the bottom pin that the set screw rides, this keeps it aligned...Ive never had a problem with it P.S.: I did mine not because it was broken, but I wanted rid of the hourglass and in searching Baikal stuff...I found another Cowboy who had done this mod....it was on some extensive write up online about someone slicking a baikal
  6. I see how you are missing that chunk on your piece next to the the pin-but it shouldnt matter...Id use some JB to finish the gap-leave it or maybe build up with solder..thats not a high pressure area
  7. Could cut it in half and perma fix the top half in...thats what I did with mine works nicely
  8. Too much talk about this and the price will double.....
  9. The "replies" and comments are already filled with ignorant comments by anti gun advocates...."Twitter" and "tweeting" are not bastions of Second Amendment Advocacy. Right now, money is the main roadblock to people I talk to about SASS. No fault of SASS...just is what it is...
  10. I also use it for shotgun. As an experiment, I sifted a pound of Swiss reenactor using the correct aprx sized screening(cant remember mesh sizes off top of my head-it was a couple years ago), with the sifting including some pressure to kind of "korn" the larger pieces through the mesh....I ended up with about 3/4 bottle of 2-3F which I used in my cap and ball pietta with just fine results for cowboy shooting . (dont know if Id use it for long range target shooting -but Ive never done anything but cowboy shoot with BP anyway) I will admit, it was a dirty process to screen and squeeze . Id do it again if need be...but it was a good experiment. As far as those other parts of the question...black is black...its kind of like asking what is the difference between pouring 10w30 or straight 30 over your gun....same result. I dont use any automatic powder measures in my reloading stages, but I do load it through my Lee load all for shotgun shells. How bad do you want some black powder to use? I did this experiment back in the good times, BB (before biden) as a curiosity and having read about it online somewhere to save a couple bucks. I'll always use it for shotgun since then.
  11. Loving mine...put in pappa daves levers, cut the extractor horizontally in half and perma fixed the top half back in...runs like a champ-better than I do
  12. After 10 years I'm sure SOMETHING has warped around there....
  13. Same here..happened a couple times to me also-very laughable moments. But thats not why I got rid of my Uberti-it was because of the major erosion around the firing pin hole-the dreaded doughnut-ridiculous that a $900 + gun would be eroded after maybe 900 or so cowboy loads.
  14. 3/4 oz of # 6,7,7.5 or 8 shot and the correct amount of Black powder......thats plenty of shot to knock down a target (hell just a wad will knock most down) and black powder is the best way to get rid of recoil pain...its a gentle push rather than a quick slap. Also, re cutting the cant on the buttstock helps tremendously with recoil pain.
  15. Its basically using a special salt with a high melting temp to dip the case mouth in and anneal...there is a lot of info if you google it. the price to get into it is minimum-just need the salt and a small lee pot. Now, of course there are "info" wars about this between the anal eeze manufacturers and salt bath annealing kits sellers... Works for me is my experience.
  16. I salt bath anneal...but not as often, maybe every 4-5 reloads on my 45 colt.
  17. The situation: There are no caps for sale anywhere-no bigbox store is getting any in, CCI is barely putting out primers for reloaders.... I dont believe for a minute, that a call to them about 2 year old(maybe more) primers would yield any type of satisfaction on my part. (I doubt it even in the good times). So, to be pro-active in a useful manner, what I have done is made a mixture of acetone and the nitrocellulose based Duco Cement and put a drop from the end of a swab stick in each cap. Waited 24 hours to dry . Tested , every one went off (I did 10) they passed the rattle in the tin as hard as possible test, and are even hotter than original manufacture. Oddly enough, another side affect was-out of every one-not a single one fell into 2 or more pieces after being hit-they came off/out as one unit. I am not about to sit down and do a thousand at a time..nor 100 at a time-but when I roll up my paper charges (35) prior to a shoot-I can certainly lay out 40 caps and super cement them..takes about 4 minutes. As far as the future tins I open and find any popped out-I will carefully try to re-construct them with the cakes found in the tin.
  18. These fell out in 2 parts, the red paper disk as well as the grey "cake" leaving a perfectly clean shiny interior of a cap I guess that would be a good way to see if any existed at all !
  19. Right before the SHTF, I was lucky enough to grab up @ 1200 cci #10 caps. In individual blister packs of 100per tin. Got them at Sportsman's warehouse. Couple months ago, Id have about 3-4/100 from each tin that would have the ignition material just fall out like a little cake-not crumbly. Yesterday, I had about 60-70 caps loaded in my straight lines...and I swear, they were just falling out left and right....probably about 5 or six from each inline cap holder....some just from turning upside down It was humid, but caps were in shade... These things arent being jostled about. They sit in the climate controlled cave in an ammo box Anyone else having this happen? As rare as caps are now, it pains me to see this happening ( not to mention the FTF I got when one fell out as I was loading at the table and didnt notice) Anyone have a remedy? I was thinking maybe a touch of that nitro glue/ acetone mixture in each days before use-like they talk about for the DIY caps stuff.
  20. More like AARP with the average age these days
  21. Synthetic lube? I dont believe thats what you want to use.....
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.