Three Foot Johnson Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 It finally happened to me yesterday, so I took it apart when I got home and... ... you've GOT to be kidding me... that tiny little "scratch" across the carrier is causing this problem? I'm going to step out to the shop, apply a little weld, take a draw file to it, and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marauder SASS #13056 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Can be amazing, but when you figure the leverage, a small amount can impact the timing quite a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sage Creek Gus SASS #64320 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 It finally happened to me yesterday, so I took it apart when I got home and... ... you've GOT to be kidding me... that tiny little "scratch" across the carrier is causing this problem? I'm going to step out to the shop, apply a little weld, take a draw file to it, and see what happens. Hey J Bar Did you ever build one of those Caltrops targets? I built a small one to test with 22 rimfire and after a little changing of dimensions it worked fine. We're in the process of building a full size one to test with Cowboy firearms. We hope to have two of them ready for our match next weekend. SCG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Art Tillery Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Don't forget to take round-off the sharp edge of the lever. I was lucky when it happened to me and was able to smooth that slight scratch out and round the lever a bit to take the edge off and it still worked fine. Good luck with your repairs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubious Don #56333 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Welding and filing is one way to fix it. Replacing the carrier is another. But once you do either, go to Marauder's website and do the fix for the marlin jam or it will happen again! The sharp edge on the lever is radiused to prevent it digging so mich into the carrier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Widder, SASS #59054 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 J Bar: That little 'scratch' becomes a factor in the carrier maintaining its position in front of the mag tube entrance to keep that 'next round' from pushing onto the carrier. YES, that sharp edge on the snail cam on the lever causes it BUT, when you round out that sharp edge, in effect you are also creating a situation that allows the carrier to drop down just a couple .001 which can also allow that next round to start pushing onto the carrier which will also cause 'The Jam'. Sooooo, when you build up the ramp on the bottom of the carrier, you might want to add a couple extra .001's to offset your rounding off that sharp edge of the snail cam. Bottom line: its all a timing issue. As the lever is opened, the first round which is viewable from the loading gate, will release from the back of the loading gate and then sit on the carrier. As the lever rotates towards fully opening, you will notice the carrier stops its upward motion and the front of the carrier is blocking that 'next round' in the mag tube. THEN, when the lever reaches its fully downward position, the carrier should still maintain its position blocking the next round in the mag tube. When a groove or 'scratch' is present in the carrier ramp OR, if the sharp edge of the snail cam has been radiused, the carrier will drop a few .001 when it reaches the fully open position. This can be just enough for rim of that 'next round' to push its way onto the carrier. Ifn it were me, I would hard weld that 'scratch' in the ramp AND radius the sharp edge of the snail cam.....THEN I would check out Marauders website and look closely at Rusty Marlins info concerning bending up the nose of your carrier just slightly enough to accomplish its task of maintaining a position to block those 'next rounds' when the lever is in its fully open position. There are other options. Hope this helps. ..........Widder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Foot Johnson Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 Well THAT was a bigger PITA than I ever thought it was going to be. First of all, let me say that this is my recently "factory rebuilt" .38 spl CBC, and it functioned fine for the few rounds I put through it to set the sights, but yesterday at the match, it made it exactly ONE round before "The Jam". I filled the scratch/forge mark with weld, draw filed it down almost to the original surface, broke the sharp edge on the cam, and experienced no improvement. Next I laid a bead across the entire length of the ramp, draw filed again, and saw minor improvement. Back out to the shop, heat sink, vise, a couple more beads, and a damn slag pocket that wouldn't go away, so Dremel a big ol' V in the thing to get rid of it, fill, draw file, and test. This time, there was a marked improvement and the lifter definitely sits higher now than when I started; approximately half way between the rim and the primer of the next cartridge, holding it securely in place, but still easily letting the first one onto the carrier. I've radically changed the angle of the ramp the cam bears on and the upper end is easily .080" taller than it was when I started, tapering down in about 1/2" to the level of the original ramp. The point of contact with the cam is probably around .050" or so higher than it was. I took it apart one last time, cleaned, polished everything up, lubed, reassembled, stepped out the door, and cycled a couple tubes of LIVE ammo through it. (I can safely do that - I own the mountain. It's good to be the king!) I'm starting to believe the stories I hear about Remington repairing Marlins - they just don't know how lever guns work yet. Hey, Gus, all I made was a crude small scale one too, but it works fine with .38's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sage Creek Gus SASS #64320 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 [quote name=' Hey, Gus, all I made was a crude small scale one too, but it works fine with .38's. What are the basic dimensions of the one you built? SCG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Foot Johnson Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 1/4" stock, ~4" paddles, probably about 15" in diameter. Very crude, cut out with an oxy-acetylene torch cuz I didn't want to drive to the neighbors place and use his plasma table. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sage Creek Gus SASS #64320 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 1/4" stock, ~4" paddles, probably about 15" in diameter. Very crude, cut out with an oxy-acetylene torch cuz I didn't want to drive to the neighbors place and use his plasma table. Mine is 3" paddles and 6" arms from base of paddles to center made of soft 1/4" stock. Works well with a 22 rimfire out to about 50 yards. SCG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.