Come On Christmas Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Do they stay sharp? or am I being penny wise and dollar foolish again? Shameless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001 Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Sir I am lookong at the same thing , I would suggest thet you get a plastic cutting board , like you use for punching holes in leather to help protect the edge on the punches . JMHO CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Hanger #3720LR Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 I have done the punch my own wads thing. Mostly for 45/70 . Used a pine board as a backing to punch on. Easy to replace once it's all splinted up. Now I consider the cost of the tools and the time to chase down the wad fabric. Also I have to consider all the different sizes I need and use. I now just place a call for what I need and wait two days for it to show up. Different sizes and thousands at a time. No blisters. No smashed fingers. No sore hands from all the pounding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairie Dawg, SASS #50329 Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Hey Shameless: Here's a link to just that discussion over on the high road. Just for reference, I use the end of a log. felt wad making --Dawg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 I only have need for two sizes of wads, 12 ga and 45 LC since I shoot the same rifle caliber as pistol. I bought a press mounted punch http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm/4,443.html and have had nothing but great success with it. Since it does not touch a pad of any sort, it stays sharp. And its small diameter makes for a sharp punch as well. 12 ga I just buy the felt and nitro wads ready made as I feel the amount I am loading would not justify the tooling necessary to make the wads. Smithy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Come On Christmas Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 I should have jest private mailed you! Only you would know . . . You, You Dawg You! Shameless :-> Hey Shameless: Here's a link to just that discussion over on the high road. Just for reference, I use the end of a log. felt wad making --Dawg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Come On Christmas Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 I should have jest private mailed you! Only you would know . . . You, You Dawg You! Shameless :-> Hey Dawg! I found one to put in my drill for $9.99 ($18 deeeeeelivered w/tax) at Harbor Freight it came up as a suggestion when I went to the address you selected. Now to find a suitable log. :-> Further Shamelessness! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty Dude, SASS # 51223 Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 I bought mine from Buffalo Arms with the punch board. I have made many wads from milk cartons & fiber egg cartons. I use a plastic mallet & the board they sell as a backer. Mine is as sharp as the day I got it. http://www.buffaloarms.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 I was to cheap to buy a ready made punch. I used an old steel golf shaft. Got to the widest par, sharpened it on the belt sander and cut a wad. It was just a bit big so I went down the golf shaft to the next step, sharpened it and cut a wad. Perfect for 45/70. The golf shaft is made of pretty good metal and holds an edge if you cut wads into end grain of a log. Been using the same punch for years. Made some up for 44/40 and 45LC to cut bees wax wads for Black Powder loading. Also made one in .44 and .36 for the Percussion guns. Been using Bore Butter melted into the felt as a lube. I also use an old golf shaft as a drop tube when loading black powder cartridges. Good luck, Castalia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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