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Problem with firing pin pushing into primer when closing lever


Guest Max Morgan, SASS 41265

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Guest Max Morgan, SASS 41265

Weird problem. had this rifle for years and it worked fine. then the problem started a little while ago. when closing the lever there is a resistance to closing the last 3/8". at first thought it was a fouled chamber but not so. upon examination it shows ~1mm of primer sticking out of the bolt as it approaches a chambered round. the resistance felt is the firing pin actually pushing into the primer. upon disassembly of the gun and removal of the bolt and striker it shows the firing pin still poking out. examination of three other 73's demonstrate that those three have the firing pin fully inside of the bolt at rest. inspection of the lumen of the bolt, the pin, and the spring show no abnormality. no crud, no rust, nothing bent... and with the drift pin in place the firing pin will not seat fully within the bolt.

 

so what happened? did the firing pin grow longer with age or what?

 

while the firing pin looks like a one piece affair, could the enlarged portion be pressed on the pin or is it a forged or cast structure?

 

has anyone else had this problem and can help solve it for me.

 

thanks for reading this.

 

max morgan

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I'm guessing here, you'll have to inspect yours closely to see if it's the same as my .45Colt. My firing pin is a two piece affair... The piece in contact with the primer is the firing pin extension. There is a gap, even with the hammer down between the two parts, that allows the extension to retract into the bolt. While some have said this extension should have a return spring to keep it off the primer, my 1986 produced rifle doesn't have one. If your does, it could be that your spring has lost its tension and collapsed. And yes, with repeated, blows from the rear, the contact point at the rear of the extension, the fore part could have stretched. However, if there's a noticeable "drag" that you can feel when closing the bolt, far more likely is that the hole in the bolt has become deformed, causing a drag on the firing pin extension.

 

It could also be the firing pin where it passes thru the frame at the rear of the action and into the bolt.

 

The inability to post pictures to illustrate a point inside the post without resorting to "flipping" back & forth is frustrating. Someone more experienced than I, surely will be able to explain better than I can.

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Max, would be hard to "armchair gunsmith' a problem like that, but I WOULD NOT cycle live rounds through it till repaired. Good chance of having an out of battery discharge. I would start with a new firing pin spring and go from there. Could be several things causing it due to wear. Don't see how the firing pin would cause resistance when closing the bolt, sounds like something else is out of alignment.?

Mink..........

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so what happened? did the firing pin grow longer with age or what?

Aw, come on Max, your joking of course! This is the 'best' line I've heard in decades! :blink: If it did, pigs fly too ;)

Bandit has the right answer. Take the rifle to a gunsmith. No Wire Freebies for this one

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You may have 2 different problems. First, resistance from 3/8" out would have nothing to do with the firing pin. You either have lead buildup inside the chamber (probable) or sizing issues with your cartridges. Or, if you're doing this in slow motion, the extractor is beginning to ride up over the base of the cartridge.

 

Second, the firing pin should have a return spring on it. It may be stuck inside the bolt, but based on your description, some idjit didn't put one in. In the old days, folks used to think that the gun didn't need one, so they took it out.

 

It does need one...secondarily for safety...and primarily to make sure there is adequate contact with the firing pin extension at the right time.

 

I'm not home, or I'd send you a high performance spring fer nothing. Someone else will likely oblige ya.

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Guest Max Morgan, SASS 41265

Thanks for all the ideas about the uberti rifle that imprints a live round primer every time the bolt closes. the resistance seen is noted at the lever distance from completely closing and is definitely due to the pin pushing against the primer. This was done with the muzzle pointed down range and safety glasses on. btw, no resistance is felt closing the lever on an empty chamber.

 

Yes, I was joking about the firing pin growing. the rifle was never fed any viagra.

 

I will however, take apart a new 357 /73 and compare firing pins

and other parts.

 

Griff, thanks for the info from VTI.

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Guest Max Morgan, SASS 41265

if u insert a round into the chamber by hand do you have any resistance??

 

 

No resistance to pushing round in by hand.

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My 66 was doing a similar thing. I found that the spring had collapsed inside of the bolt and was no longer functional. It would catch the firing pin sometimes and allow it to contact the primer. New spring and problem solved. Was a real bear to get the old collapsed spring out. Made a tiny hook on the end of a sturdy paper clip to catch it and pull it out. Still took several tries and a reasonable quantity of blood to get it out.

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Reading this thread out of curiosity . . . I wonder why Uberti found it necessary to redesign something that had been working just fine for so many years ? :huh:

 

My Winchester '73 was made by Winchester. No two peice firing pin, no firing pin spring. And it works just great, . . like they have been since 1873. :)

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Guest Max Morgan, SASS 41265

the spring was intact and clean. the lumen of the bolt was clean as well.

 

i took a new 73 apart and found it has a different design for connecting the bolt, firing pin, and the striker. could not figure out how to take apart so could not compare new gun's pin length to old one.

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the spring was intact and clean. the lumen of the bolt was clean as well.

 

i took a new 73 apart and found it has a different design for connecting the bolt, firing pin, and the striker. could not figure out how to take apart so could not compare new gun's pin length to old one.

 

Max, if it is a 2008 or newer, the front toggle link pin and tab is what holds the firing pin extension in the rear of the bolt. The older models had a small pin (.058 or .078 I think) through the rear of the bolt to hold the firing pin extension. Some will fall out and some will have to be driven out with a punch. I thought you would find a problem in the breech bolt when you took it apart. Has to be something binding inside the bore of the bolt, either the spring or firing pin, or the spring is too weak to pull the pin back into the bolt. Will be interested to find the problem....

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The new Uberti 73's use the original wedge that is held in place by the toggle links to connect the firing pin extension to the bolt. When you remove the links you can disconnect the firing pin extension from the bolt. As usual once you slide the dust cover back (remove the small screw and front guide) you will need to remove the stock and drop the trigger group and hammer in order to remove the firing pin extension and then the bolt. The firing pin extension will not clear the bolt. Uberti did this so unlike the old design if there is a failure of the wedge connecting the firing pin extension to the bolt the firing pin extension can not be driven past the hammer into the shooters face.

 

TB

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