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Taos

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    Outlaw Camp

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    Russellville, Arkansas

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  1. So, Elder Statesman CAN NOT be collapsed to Silver Senior? That right? What if the Category is ES Frontier Cartridge? Can it then be collapsed into SS Frontier Cartridge?
  2. Heck, if I were an Aussie and that was my only choice to continue to shoot, I'd do it. Assuming the volunteer shot shell is a 12ga.: 20gr of powder in a Cowboy 12ga load is kinda hot, but not hot for a hunting load. From that I "assume" the powder used is nothing unusual. Shot shell powder is used a lot in light cowboy pistol and rifle loads. You already know the powder is a shotshell powder, it's not something like H110 or similar. If the volunteer powder is not a flake powder I would maybe do a little more investigation. Say a .38 load; we know 3gr of any noteworthy pistol or shotgun powder will work. I'd start with 1 gr of the unknown powder, I very much doubt it would cause any problem other than a squib. Then work up .5gr at a time from there to get a comfortable load. You said you had a chronograph so tracking velocity should not be a problem. Of course we all know what the first three letters in "assume" are.
  3. I bought an AWA Lightning in 44/40 just for sport. I like messing with guns and getting them working like they should. But......the Lightning kicked my butt!! Try this, try that, make a load like this, make a load like that, pump it like this, pump it like that, the gun don't care. It'll work fine one stage and then find a new and interesting way to jam up. UUUUURG! I know I could send it to Lasseter, I could also just leave it standing in the corner. Or hang I could hang it on a wall, someone else's wall because it would just piss me off every time I saw it!
  4. If it were me? I'd visit a few hardware stores or auto part stores and buy a piece of rubber gasket material and cut my own new gasket.
  5. Taos

    Yildiz SxS

    My Buckaroo grandson uses a Yildez. 12ga now, had a 20ga but sold it for the 12ga. Seem to be good guns. Very light, much lighter than a Stoeger. He also has a very slicked up 12ga two trigger Stoeger and MUCH prefers the Yildez. Both his Yildez have had a few problems, nothing unusual for a lower dollar gun, and nothing that myself or most any gunsmith could not handle. Build quality is way above Stoeger. My biggest fear with the Yildez is getting parts if I need them. The 20ga is a different gun than the 12ga, different mechanisms (don't know why that is, but is). We seemed to have more problems with the 20 than the 12. The 20 had problems locking the barrels, had to get a gunsmith (Boomstick) to weld/work on the barrel locks. It also would light strike the left barrel, but that was pretty rare. The top lever that opens the barrels had problems too. The internals of the opening lever on his 20 was apparently made of soft metal and it wore completely out to where the gun would not open. Had to get it repaired with a hard weld and ground back down to specs. IMHO based on my experience with the 20ga, I'd stay away from it. The only problem with the 12 was it not opening far enough and staying open enough for easy load and shuck. An easy but careful fix. There is a lug on the barrel, between the barrels, that cocks the hammers. The lug was too long and was over-cocking the hammers. This caused the hammer springs to keep tension on the lug and barrels not allowing he barrels to stay fulling open. By removing the butt stock I could see how far the gun was over cocking. Marked the hammers to where they cocked and carefully ground down the cocking lug on the barrels to reduce the over cocking problem. I just had to be very careful not to shorten the cocking lug too much, or the gun would be gunsmith bound. Works like a charm now. That and the regular lightened hammer spring, polishing and chamber honing/widening. Overall the Yildez 12ga is a great gun. IMHO The internals of the Yildez are very similar to a Stoeger, so if you can work on a Stoeger you should be able to work on a Yildez.
  6. I wet tumble using dish soap and Lemeshine. After tumbling and rinsing I put a couple capfuls of my favorite car wash soap in a bucket with just enough water to cover the brass. Swish it for a few seconds, drain and lightly rinse. Then I dry in a case dryer. I rarely get water spots. The slick ceramic coating also seems to help make reloading easier, slick in the dies I guess. I use Turtle Wax Ceramic Hybrid Solutions. I've tried a few others, didn't work as well. Used to be able to get it at Walmart, now I have to get it through Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-53411-Solutions-Ceramic/dp/B07XYQNZ2R/ref=asc_df_B07XYQNZ2R?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989588515103&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589115104599&th=1
  7. Thanks Garrison Joe. That's exactly what I was thinking. Maybe I just needed a little encouragement? I would have tried it anyway. I know all too well about "taking a little off", put it all back together, try it. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Thanks watab kid for the measurement, that gives me some sort of ball park to aim at. Had a Yildiz 20ga once that would sometimes open with recoil. The opposite problem this Stoeger has. Had to add a little metal to the lock on the barrel, then shave it off a few thousands at a time. I could simulate recoil by knocking downward on the end of the barrel with a mallet. Of course I went too far with removing metal and had to weld again, but then I had a good measurement on where it needed to be. Gun worked like a champ from then on. I sold it later, and I hope it's still holding up.
  8. Thanks guys. It's not the top lever spring, and the lever is bent to assist opening. The problem is the top lever needs to pushed over probably something like 50 degrees before the second latch releases. 20 to 25 degrees would be more like it. I've removed metal from guns before to make them operate smoother/quicker. Last shotgun I worked on was grandson's main match shotgun, a Yildiz. Had to take some metal off the hammer cocking mechanism to get it to open further. I've taken quite a bit of metal off my 45/70 single shot rifle. I've taken metal off my Colt replicas. None of those guns were messed with by me without first asking a few questions. I've taken pounds (LOL) of metal off my 03a3, 30.06 which I sporterized. So, not afraid of taking off metal. Was just wondering if someone who has done this before might have a little insight to share. Most of the time metal off can be welded back on if I screw up. Thanks
  9. Working on my Buckaroo Grandsons Stoeger SxS, his back up gun. The top lever has a very long travel, makes it hard for small hands to get the barrels open. The gun has two barrel locking lugs. The first lug disengages easily and with little top lever movement. The 2nd lug however disengages only when the top lever is pushed all the way to the end of it's travel. My question is: Can the second lug be worked on so that it disengages sooner? And if so, do I shorten the lug or the catch on the barrel the lug engages? Thanks
  10. Stick em in empty cases and see if they go "POP". I have not tried fiocchi pistol primers. Tried shot shell primers, they were junk, threw them all away.
  11. I have a Stoeger 12ga that I am thinking about selling.  It's a double trigger, the rear trigger has been swapped to the right.

    The gun has been recently tuned, gone over and re-slicked by Boomstick and operates very nicely.

    Auto-safety removed.  

    The lever and barrel locks have been reworked by Boomstick to allow the barrels to open sooner (less lever travel) and still solidly lock the barrels closed.

    Choke tubes.  I have no idea what chokes are in the gun, I have never removed them.

     

    I have two butt stocks, the original and a cut down butt stock for small people (Buckaroo).   LOP on the cut down stock is about 11/1/2 inches.   The cut down butt stock has been completely reworked to remove about 2 lbs of wood, making it slimmer.  The work was modeled after a Baikal butt stock.   The forestock has also been slimmed and lightened.  

     

    I am the 2nd owner.  The previous owner and myself clean guns after every match, it's been well maintained.

     

    It's not a fancy pretty gun, it's a reliable workhorse.  My Buckaroo Grandson has used this gun for about two years now.  Has won 3 Arkansas Buckaroo State Championships with it.

     

    Let me know if you might be interested.

    Taos

    Stoeger 1.jpg

  12. Hey Big Gus, THANKS!

    I could use the brass next Saturday, but I can wait.  Beggars can't be choosers.

    If not next Saturday then the next Plainsman Match I know of won't be until April.

    Just send them when you can send them.

     

    I will gladly pay you for the brass.  And if you has as many as 50 you are willing to sell, that would be great.

     

    And thanks again!

     

    Jim Devereux

    50 Price Blvd

    London, AR.  72847

     

    Taos Lightning

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. Big Gus, SASS# 66666

      Big Gus, SASS# 66666

      $9.45 address on box

    3. Big Gus, SASS# 66666
    4. Taos

      Taos

      You got it coming.

      THANKS SO much!

       

      bang, bang, with smoke.

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