Taos

If it were me? I'd visit a few hardware stores or auto part stores and buy a piece of rubber gasket material and cut my own new gasket.

My Buckaroo grandson uses a Yildez. 12ga now, had a 20ga but sold it for the 12ga. Seem to be good guns. Very light, much lighter than a Stoeger. He also has a very slicked up 12ga two trigger Stoeger and MUCH prefers the Yildez. Both his Yildez have had a few problems, nothing unusual for a lower dollar gun, and nothing that myself or most any gunsmith could not handle. Build quality is way above Stoeger. My biggest fear with the Yildez is getting parts if I need them. The 20ga is a different gun than the 12ga, different mechanisms (don't know why that is, but is). We seemed to have more problems with the 20 than the 12. The 20 had problems locking the barrels, had to get a gunsmith (Boomstick) to weld/work on the barrel locks. It also would light strike the left barrel, but that was pretty rare. The top lever that opens the barrels had problems too. The internals of the opening lever on his 20 was apparently made of soft metal and it wore completely out to where the gun would not open. Had to get it repaired with a hard weld and ground back down to specs. IMHO based on my experience with the 20ga, I'd stay away from it. The only problem with the 12 was it not opening far enough and staying open enough for easy load and shuck. An easy but careful fix. There is a lug on the barrel, between the barrels, that cocks the hammers. The lug was too long and was over-cocking the hammers. This caused the hammer springs to keep tension on the lug and barrels not allowing he barrels to stay fulling open. By removing the butt stock I could see how far the gun was over cocking. Marked the hammers to where they cocked and carefully ground down the cocking lug on the barrels to reduce the over cocking problem. I just had to be very careful not to shorten the cocking lug too much, or the gun would be gunsmith bound. Works like a charm now. That and the regular lightened hammer spring, polishing and chamber honing/widening. Overall the Yildez 12ga is a great gun. IMHO The internals of the Yildez are very similar to a Stoeger, so if you can work on a Stoeger you should be able to work on a Yildez.

I wet tumble using dish soap and Lemeshine. After tumbling and rinsing I put a couple capfuls of my favorite car wash soap in a bucket with just enough water to cover the brass. Swish it for a few seconds, drain and lightly rinse. Then I dry in a case dryer. I rarely get water spots. The slick ceramic coating also seems to help make reloading easier, slick in the dies I guess. I use Turtle Wax Ceramic Hybrid Solutions. I've tried a few others, didn't work as well. Used to be able to get it at Walmart, now I have to get it through Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-53411-Solutions-Ceramic/dp/B07XYQNZ2R/ref=asc_df_B07XYQNZ2R?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989588515103&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589115104599&th=1

Thanks Garrison Joe. That's exactly what I was thinking. Maybe I just needed a little encouragement? I would have tried it anyway. I know all too well about "taking a little off", put it all back together, try it. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Thanks watab kid for the measurement, that gives me some sort of ball park to aim at. Had a Yildiz 20ga once that would sometimes open with recoil. The opposite problem this Stoeger has. Had to add a little metal to the lock on the barrel, then shave it off a few thousands at a time. I could simulate recoil by knocking downward on the end of the barrel with a mallet. Of course I went too far with removing metal and had to weld again, but then I had a good measurement on where it needed to be. Gun worked like a champ from then on. I sold it later, and I hope it's still holding up.

Thanks guys. It's not the top lever spring, and the lever is bent to assist opening. The problem is the top lever needs to pushed over probably something like 50 degrees before the second latch releases. 20 to 25 degrees would be more like it. I've removed metal from guns before to make them operate smoother/quicker. Last shotgun I worked on was grandson's main match shotgun, a Yildiz. Had to take some metal off the hammer cocking mechanism to get it to open further. I've taken quite a bit of metal off my 45/70 single shot rifle. I've taken metal off my Colt replicas. None of those guns were messed with by me without first asking a few questions. I've taken pounds (LOL) of metal off my 03a3, 30.06 which I sporterized. So, not afraid of taking off metal. Was just wondering if someone who has done this before might have a little insight to share. Most of the time metal off can be welded back on if I screw up. Thanks

Working on my Buckaroo Grandsons Stoeger SxS, his back up gun. The top lever has a very long travel, makes it hard for small hands to get the barrels open. The gun has two barrel locking lugs. The first lug disengages easily and with little top lever movement. The 2nd lug however disengages only when the top lever is pushed all the way to the end of it's travel. My question is: Can the second lug be worked on so that it disengages sooner? And if so, do I shorten the lug or the catch on the barrel the lug engages? Thanks

Stick em in empty cases and see if they go "POP". I have not tried fiocchi pistol primers. Tried shot shell primers, they were junk, threw them all away.

Sometimes things are just made too complicated. I've made many pistol holders for carts and pistol holder racks. The longest rack holds I think, 12 pistols. Just used a 2 inch hole saw blade. Then notched the hole with a jig saw for the top strap and trigger guard. Then cleaned it all up with a rasp and sandpaper.