Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933

The firing pin bushing seats solidly in the frame. It is not supposed to be dimensioned so that the retaining pin holds it out from its seat in the frame. If there is something wrong with the bushing seat in the frame it is not something you can fix. The retaining pin could be left out entirely and it should not affect how deep the bushing is sitting in the frame. If you don't know what you are doing returning the gun to Ruger would be the best course of action.

Soft.

You are in command of the mightiest research tool in the world. The Internet. Go on-line and start searching. Tom MIx was famous so there are a lot of resources on him. He died in a car crash right here in Arizona just outside of Florence. There is a road marker at the crash site.

Your best bet is to put the good parts on Ebay and just buy a new Pietta steel frame. They are on sale frequently at places like Cabelas. By the time you buy a frame and assemble one from parts you will probably spend more than a new one will cost.

Once the bullet feeding tubes are filled you can load the ammo much faster than loading the tubes. I have three magazines so they hold around 320 bullets. I fill them when goofing around sorta like filling primer tubes. Once everything is set to go it makes the actual loading process a lot nicer. I have an RCBS bullet feeder so what I have done is set the RCBS feeder up so I can fill the mini-bullet feeder tubes. I use the mini-feeder on my Dillon 1050 because the RCBS doesn't work well on it because on a 1050 the tool head moves up and down rather than the ram and kinks the flexible metal feeding tube. The RCBS feeder is attached to a Dillon 650.

If you are looking for SASS guidelines have you tried the rule book? Metal and paper targets of generous size are used. Reactive targets such as pepper poppers and falling plates are used when practical to enhance shooter feedback and spectator appeal. Targets are set at close to medium range. There are no absolute rules, but we suggest the following distances, by firearm, if using a target approximately 16" X 16": Revolver – 7 to 10 yards Shotgun – 8 to 16 yards Rifle – 13 to 50 yards That's all there is. Target size and distances are determined by the club.

The registration booth closes at 3:00 pm on Tuesday. Drop Turquoise Bill a note (the sidematch coordinator) and you can exchange contact information. turquoisebill@cableone.net

OP the term "Zulu" shotgun just means a class of cheap, cobbled together single shot firearms made for the African trade. They were made from French, Belgium, British and other surplus military arms or cobbled together out of any cheap civilian guns that were avaiable. You will need a much more detailed description of what you have and PHOTOS to have any chance to find what you are looking for.

I have a blue car. It needs a new transmission. Can anyone help?

Numrich frequently just gets generic parts. You just need a spring for a SAA. Some springs do need a little fitting if they bump on the back of the hammer when it is cocked. Either of these should work fine. http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/performance-enhancing-kits/gunslinger-handgun-spring-kits-prod1577.aspx http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/frame-parts/mainspring-parts/mainsprings/saa-cowboy-action-springs-prod16557.aspx Or for a stock spring scroll down to #36. Although I can't imagine why anyone would want a stock spring when the aftermarket tuned springs are about the same price. http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Uberti-/1873-Cattleman-S-A--sid325.aspx

VTI, Taylors, EMF, Cimarron. Of just skip the factory springs and get a Lee or Wolff.

I haven't seen him for several years. The last time I talked to him he refused to just sell parts. Running "El Rod" here yields no results. Googling Eldon Penner does not show a website or address. So, for all practical purposes the parts are basically non-existent. If you have contact infomation it would be useful to print it.

Good. The only American I have left is an old M-7 lightweight.

Wow, that price list is from 2008. I wonder if they are even still in business? I haven't seen a new one on a dealer's shelf in a long time.

You bought a Winchester by Miroku 66 a year ago? They only had a couple of engraved prototypes at the shot show a year ago. If you have a standard "production" model where did you get it?

Some worked. Some did not. The early ones were marked "AWA International" and had functioning problems. The later ones were marked "AWA USA." Some of those ran fairlly well. There are no spare parts. I always tell people if you are going to shoot a Lightning it is going to become your second hobby. What's funny about Lightnings is they might cycle dummy rounds all day but as soon as you go to the range for some live fire they start to have problems. If you aren't a decent gun mechanic you might want to pass as sending them out to get worked on can be expensive and there are only one or two people that really know how to tune them.

You'll have to ask the SASS front office what they are doing this year.

All the distributors sell "competion" ready revolvers as well. Just helps to be clear what you are talking about when asking tech questions.

Silngle shots aren't legal main match rifles either. Are you talking about a side match? Four guys standing in line for a side match ailn't the same as 400 guys waiting behind some one in the main match. In any event the 80's are long gone.

The past couple of years you have to figure out the application form and check the appropriate boxes.

Might be useful to specify whether you are talking about a rifle or a revolver. "1873" can be either.

+100%. I was at a very large match one time where they let a shooter use a muzzle loading rifle. Ten shots on the clock took a while. That shooter may have been having "fun" but for the other 289 people backed up in hour+ long delays on the other stages they were NOT having fun.

Twelve inches out of a rest at two feet! Who'd a thunk it. At any rate you said you like the American Derringer. Americans do not have a rebounding hammer so one way to "select" the barrel is to look at the breech face when the barrels are open. If the firing pin is sticking out of the top hole the bottom barrel will fire first. If it is sticking out of the bottom hole the top barrel will fire first. After the first two shots it will continue to fire in the same order. (Unless you slip hammer or somthing else causes the hammer not to come fully back and the pins get out of sequence.) Another way is to look at the pivot in the hammer face. If you look carefully you can see what postion it is in and after a while you can tell what pin it is going to hit. One thing with American Derringers is that since they do not have rebounding hammers you have to make absolutely sure the hammer is placed on half-cock before closing the barrels with rounds loaded in them. Otherwise you could get a nice surprise. Bottom firing pin protruding so the top barrel will be the next to fire.

I know what stippling is. It is usually done on metal with a prick punch. I just wanted to make sure what the OP was talking about. The photo in number four was done by laser and either Drifter or Taz can do it.

What do you mean by laser "stipling?" There are a couple of people that routinely show up at major matches to do laser engraving on wood. Drifter from (I believe) the Mid-West and Taz from New England attend many matches and both do great work. Taz is already parked at Ben Avery getting ready for Winter Range.