Griff

With ANY ammo under 1.600" in length you're having a round partially feed into the carrier block. When the lever is pushed forward, the block raises forcing that next round back into the magazine. 1.600" being the spec'd length of the carrier mortise.

For the same reason a Winchester 94AE in a pistol caliber is a legal main match rifle... Which didn't come along until 1982!

Just in case you're wondering Snakebite... PWB emails me when he has a question!

I'd argue that if the Henry BigBoy is legal, the Marlin 336 is certainly even more legit... being a direct descendent of the 1893... but... I don't have to, 'cause the 336 is legal, just not as a main match rifle in anything BUT the 44 Mag.

Keep your loads using a RNFP shaped bullet and either a Rossi 92 or Marlin 94 should be fine. Both are relatively simple to slick up, but the Marlin is a little simpler to disassemble and reassemble!

Probably not what you want to hear.... but, "...trade it in on a new one?" I've got both their coach gun and Uplander (double triggers), been using them since early 1986 and never had occasion to peek inside their actions, except to disengage the "auto" portion of the safety. You might just need to take the stock off, operate the cocking mechanism and see why it ain't engaging. Could just be something simple...

TW... that is where the RO III manual is great at resolving these apparently conflicting issues... The observing spotter or other shooter should bring the matter to the TO's attention... in a forceful & commanding tone, for the TO to then issue the relevant and binding commands to the offending shooter!

Shhh... I was hoping nobody noticed!

When I first started shooting cap guns, I'd get caps back in the hammer channel all the time... There was no one paving the way, so to speak, I learned by experimenting and trying what others did. The closest I came to a fix came by wallering out the inside curve of the hammer. Sometimes I've have 10 caps stuck down in there... and then one would be one too many and the hammer wouldn't contact the cap... Noticed my nipples were getting mushroomed... trimmed 'em back and cleaned them up... NOTHING worked. I finally sent my cap guns off to have the Manhattan conversion done. Now with Treso nipples and Remington #10s, it's rare that I have a cap jam... but when I do... it's nearly always when I'm shooting C&B GUNFIGHTER!!! The slot in the hammer has been filled. This is a "in progress" photo.

Did you see the video of my last stage of EOT, 2021? Felt like it took 15 minutes of replacing caps on one revolver that never even popped! Finally got all five rounds to go off and ended the embarrassing spectacle, on how to pick off dead caps, replace them with other dead caps... but, salvaged a clean match!!! Took awhile, but figured out that caps can get wet... CBB, I always figured that paper cartridges was an art form, much like paper-patched bullets... and roll-yer-owns... Something I never mastered... And since I'm not inclined to practice things that up my self-satisfaction quotient, I ain't startin'!

I look in the SHB, the RO Guides... then ask PWB. Our TG is fabulous... keeps us informed, asks for our input on questions or Summit topics...

Nay, Griff lives in Texas... some of the time... the rest of the time he lives all around the US... except, CA, NY, NJ, or points NE of there.! And, is dubiously only part Irish, but a WHOLE lot of Scottish! But, I fully understand and fully support your hedging of bets... I'm doing the same... figuring that I'll have a dry hole or a cap only ignition and have to cap that 6th chamber to get 5 rounds to go off! And I don't have flash holes the size of Alaska...

IF it undersized by some .004", depending on a number of factors, hardness of your lead, actual size of your projectiles, chamber length, diameter, length of leade, and what depth you seat bullet to, it could, possibly, maybe, might, increase pressure somewhat. Since the 45 Colt factory ammo is relatively anemic, as it's made to be safe in even 1st gen Colt SAAs, and the Marlin IS safe with 44 Mag ammo... I wouldn't worry about it at all. But, like mentioned above, (at least once), I slug the barrel and take a chamber cast so that I'd KNOW what all the factors are rather than SWAG'n it. Wait, it'd still be a SWAG... except after the measuring, it'd be a Scientific Wild Assed Guess, instead of a Silly Wild Assed Guess!

I've shot 1851s in SASS matches since 1986... and have charged all six chambers for every stage I've shot... both when we only used one pistol and when we moved to having two pistols on every stage. I've never had a chain fire... Not saying it won't happen with the very next pistol I load... but.. the evidence I'm in possession of, sez the likelihood is very small. That is both with stock nipples, Treso, Ampco & SlixShot. You can worry about a chainfire if you wish... me... I'll cap and continue on. I would however, check to make sure the flash holes in the nipples to be used did NOT look like the mouth of San Francisco Bay!

Western 3-gun. And long before that, @ West End Gun Club it was allowed, and continued until they became SASS affiliated. The "basketball" rule came into being in '86/'87 as I recall, just before the formation of SASS. That's when a goodly portion of the action left cowboy action, IMO.. Not that I can keep up even now! Ain't sure, but maybe OWSA, as I seem to recall firing as you advanced on downrange movement.

No, nein, nichts... lead ball scrapes previous shot fouling out in front of it, lubed wad lubricates bore making it easier to remove fouling coming along behind it.

FYI, signing up on the SASS Wire, is not joining SASS, and will not result in a SASS #. What TS just said. Also, on that site you'll be able to join SASS, register your alias & receive your #.

I'd done the same conversion and short stroke kit in a Uberti 1873 a couple of months ago... and everything in it was nearly drop in. The Pioneer kit includes very well written and illustrated instructions... needed for us neanderthal types! With the older 1873 I ran into a problem... and decided to just try it. It came very close to being another drop in after I got the carrier/bolt timing down. After a call to PGW I understood very easily what was interfering, keeping the lever from returning to parallel to the lower tang. It doesn't involve bending the lever!

Y'all overly complicating this "in hand" issue. Yes, it sez "in hand", but... if you think of it as out of holster... it becomes a whole lot clearer. When the revolvers are initially staged on a prop... think of the prop as the "holster". Damn it folks, use some uncommon good sense. Just like a good cop, enforce the "spirit of the law", not necessarily the letter of the law.

Clean... after shooting smokeless? Okay, at least once a year, I clean. Hoppe's #9, a brass brush, dry, then lube... lightly.... VERY lightly! Reassemble, repeat a year later. I'm a little more aggressive after shooting BP, when the match is over I disassemble, clean with Hoppe's #9, dry, make sure ALL the fouling is removed... sometimes after a 3-day match I have to scrap off some of the more burned-on fouling. Do NOT lube, and reassemble.

Filing on the surface of the carrier bar that mates up against the front of the lever. Sez it's not a common problem... but easily corrected. Which I'll attest to, took several trial fittings to get it done, but... this kit will live in the 1860...

What? The .375 balls... Hey, if they cut a lead ring, I'm golden.

If only!

Talked to Joe @ Pioneer, learned trick... working now!

I'll second the advise not to use wheel weights for your C&B revolver... It takes quite a bit more force to size an RB made of WW than pure lead.