H. K. Uriah, SASS #74619

I have not had a problem turning .32-20 into Nagant rounds. I have used Remington and Starline brass. No need to thin any rims. I've also turned .32-20 into .32WSL without changing the extractor groove, and just running it through a resizing die.

I have a Taylors 73. Out of the box, it has a very nice, smooth action. Not quite as good as my real Winchester, but still very good. I noticed that when operating the lever, part way through the stroke, there is a (I'll describe it as) lump in the action. It gets just a bit stiffer for a bit before lightening back up again. Comparing it to my original Winchester, the lump is there, but not nearly as noticeable. I am assuming this is more or less a design feature, and that there must be a solution to it, as I have handled slicked up guns that don't seem to have the lump. Does what I am describing sound familiar to anyone? Is there a simple fix for this, or is it a gunsmith job? Not interested in short stroking or a "race gun." Just wanna eliminate or at least minimize, the limp.

Okay. Here's the "regular" 92 based Mare's Leg. Here's the AWA Lightning Bolt Here's the 73 And here's pic of reference for scale.

Thanks, Abilene. I tried searching that way, and I found a place that has a 3" version of this. It may be "too new" but it looks nice, so I think it'll work. Why not, it's a fantasy game anyway. I have no idea what kind of a costume he'll have at the shoot I'll be taking him to, but I'll bring along my Canadian marked Mark V Webley just for fun.

Does anyone know where I can get a replica of a Canadian badge that would have existed in the time period of our game? It doesn't necessarily have to be one for the North West Mounted Police, the predecessor of the modern Mounties, but that would be ideal. Finding various replicas of US Old West badges is pretty easy, but I want to get something for a Canadian friend. I tried various google searches, and came up empty for things of the era that are also for sale.

And have it checked even if the barrel says 2-3/4. They apparently measured things differently back then, and a chamber marked 2-3/4" might actually be 2-5/8" I know that proved true for my 12 gauge 97's. Which is why I just run 2-1/2" shells in anything made during or prior to WWII.

That's funny. as I do the exact opposte. I take .32-20 brass and run it through Nagant dies to get perfectly usable brass for those weird Russian pistols. It's too "short" to do the chamber seal thing, but using wadcutter bullets, you can at least shoot your Nagant with very satisfactory results.

Cyl would indeed stand for Cylinder, or basically, no choke. That's fine. Based on your pic, I'd say that's not a cut barrel. Or if it was cut, whoever did so did a great job. Only way to know for sure would be to get a factory letter. But, I would guess it's probably uncut. 24" seems to be an odd length to trim to.

Based on the pics, it looks to be in slightly better shape than my own 12 gauge 30" full choke that I paid $400 for about 10 years ago. I don't know if 16 gauge adds or detracts from its value. Is that 24" barrel the original length, and what is its choke? For ME, if it's cut, that lessens the value. For others, it makes no difference or might even enhance it. IF I was interested in 16 gauge, and IF that's the original barrel length, I'd be interested in this gun. Prolly willing to pay $600 or so. If the barrel has been cut, I'd not go more than $400, and would be more inclined to pass. But, I am in the small minority of people who prefer long barrels on their shotguns.

I'd like to give a shout out to the Wm Brown Holster Company, located in Colorado. Their main website is here, https://wmbrownholster.com/ but I'd like specifically endorse this one... https://wmbrownholster.com/product/mares-leg/ I have not one, not two, but THREE of these holsters. The first one I got is fairly "generic" for a 92 based pistol. The second one though is somewhat of a custom job for my Lightning Bolt pistol, (Mares Leg version of the Colt Lightning) and the third one, that I just got today, for a 73 based "pistol" with a 16" barrel. Again, a bit of a custom job. These pistols are are impractical, cumbersome, not SASS legal, and as much FUN to shoot as you can possibly imagine! But the subject of this message is the holsters. They hold the pistols well and work as well as can be expected with the guns in question. I realize that not many people will be interested in this specific holster, but the quality of their product is really good, and I heartily recommend them if you are looking for something special.

I have one of those in .38 S&W. A few years ago, just before I went to EoT, I asked if the pistol was legal. PaleWolf said it was. I used it at EoT, and no one said anything about the grips, or the pistol in general.

I have to admit that I have always found these to be fascinating. They looks like a cross between an older top break, and a newer swing out S&W. Are we sure they are not SASS Legal? Might they be okay the same way the Ruger is? No skin in the game, as I don't own one, but I have wondered about them,.

Ah, the Bisley. Fascinating gun to look at, and I always thought I wanted one. A few years ago, I got a chance to handle one, I believe it was Driftwood Johnson's, and I didn't like the way it felt in my hand, so I stopped wanting one. Then, about 2 years ago, I found one for sale in .32-20 for an excellent price. So, after hemming and hawing for a while, I bought it. Soon after that, I went to the range with these guns... And I shot a clean match. Real Winchester 92. Real Colt Lightning, Real Winchester 97. Previously mentioned Bisley. 3rd Gen Colt. All rifles and pistols in .32-20. I brought the two rifles because I had just replaced the ancient and weakened original magazine springs. Both rifles now work properly. I had not used the short barreled 97 in a long time, so I took it out for a change. Once I actually got to shooting, I really didn't notice any difference between the Bisley and the standard SAA. I even switched hands half way through the match. (I shoot double duelist style.) I was just concentrating on shooting and did not pay the differences any mind. I enjoyed the Bisley so much that I did not hesitate to get another one when I found another for a relatively inexpensive price. Sooner or later, I'll take 'em both to the range for a shoot. Now if I could just figure out how to cut this foam to fit.... Bisley revolvers are fun.

Neither my original Winchester, nor my Chiappa have he drop two. But I have found that if you push down the lifter, you can then drop two round into the action, and that will work. It's probably not as efficient as a true drop two modification, but it can be done. And you can still stoke the magazine.

Why would you modify it? As much as I love my original, I gotta get me one of the long barrel Chiappas so I can occasionally shoot smokeless with an 87. But they've got screw in chokes. I HATE screw in chokes.

Another pard here east of the Hudson once told me that the Chinese 87s are nearly perfect copies of the oiriginals, which were built for 2.5" shells. You will probably find that the shorter shells will work better. I know that even though my Winchester has had it's chamber lengthened to 2.75", it works much better with Magtech 2.5"s than it does with AA's. My Chiappa on the other hand, digests 2.75" shells with no problem, but occasionally stovepipes the shorter shells. Go figure. BTW, Reverend, you said you are from New England. Have we me?

I have no pics or videos of me using them, and while I am normally a 97 guy, I do use my 87's from time to time. 87 #1 is a real Winchester with a 30" full choke barrel. (Of course) Although it's black powder only, it's a lot of fun to shoot. 87 #2 is a Chiappa in "Terminator 2" configuration. You might wanna call it a "Mare's Leg Shotgun." Technically not allowed under SASS rules for some reason, but but still a lot of fun to shoot at local clubs that will let you. And here's a pic of the Winchester with some other things. The 87 is just plain fun to shoot.

Hmm... .44-40 revolvers. (antiques) 1 1st Gen Colt 1 Merwin & Hulbert 1 S&W Model 3 DA 1 S&W New Model 3 1 Colt 1878 (modern) 1 Uberti Clone 1 3rd Gen Colt 1 3rd Gen Buntline, .44 Special with .44-40 Cylinder 2 3rd Gen Sheriff's Model, .44 Special with .44-40 Cylinders I use Winchester primers, the ones labeled "For use in standard or magnum loads." They always go bang in all of the above. Don't know what that means, if anything.

Oh yuck! I can see how that could be a frustrating annoyance!

I am not sure I understand what that means. Can you post pics?

Not too long ago I shared a post about my Colt revolvers and asked people to do the same. Some did. (Huzzah!) But I limited my post specifically to real Colts and did not include clones. Well, I was thinking today about the clones and thought it would be fun to share then as well. (By "clones" I mean things that are supposed to be a copy, of sorts, of the Colt SAA, not things that are very similar like the Remington or Ruger.) But I also thought just sharing some clones was kinda "why botherish." But then I realized that there are almost as many different "safeties" on these various clones, or other differences that might be fun to look at. So I figured, "why not?" And with that in mind, I shall now send in the clones. Like with my real Colts, I'll do it by caliber. We will start with .44 Special. The top pistol is an Alder Italy Model 1873, imported by EMF. The bottom is an Uberti Cimmaron. The Alder has got what I consider to be the most offensive, and weirdest, safety I've ever seen on a clone; a kind of rotating cylinder pin. You can tell that it's in the "fire" position by that red dot. This is also why I hate it so much, it's just plain ugly. You can't see it well, but the base of the cylinder pin has a kind of a nub on it. When it's in the fire position, it'll fit in this notch on the hammer, allowing the gun to go bang. When it's in the safe position, it blocks the hammer from going all the way down. This safety might actually work, but I'd not recommend it. Trying to rotate it around to the firing position, while cocked, or at least on half cock, is a fumble and stumble procedure. Best to ignore it's existence and just carry 5. It is however, a very easy thing to fix. A Colt cylinder pin will fit. The Uberti has a strange feature, I don't know what Uberti calls it, but I refer to it as the "Safety Notch Block," and it seems to be the most common safety I see on Uberti made guns. I am sure almost all of us have seen this little switch like thingee on the back of an Uberti hammer. And this is what it looks like from the front of the hammer. And there is a hole in the frame the same shape as the block on the hammer. When the gun is on the first, or safety notch click, this block drops down into the hole, preventing the firing pin from being able to go forward. Of all the safeties I've seen on the clones, this is the only one that seems to function practically, and would thus actually be a viable one for actual use. Not that I would, but it does seem that it actually would be safe. A little more difficult to get rid of, you'd have to replace the hammer with one that doesn't have the block. Don't think it's worth the trouble. Here's my .44-40 clone.... This is an American Arms Uberti. It has the Safety Notch Block safety. Up next, .44 Magnum. The top is another American Arms Uberti with the Safety Notch Block thing. As you can see, it is slightly "upscaled" to, I assume, make it stronger. In the middle is an original Great Western Revolver, which is also the original clone, and depending on who you ask and believe, the first revolver to hit the market in .44 Magnum. Interestingly, it's not scaled up any that I can see when eyeball comparing it to my Colts. The bottom is a Virginian Dragoon, which seems to be more of a copy of the New Frontier than a standard SAA, and it is even more beefed up than the Uberti up top. Here's an interesting feature of the Great Western... No firing pin on the hammer, giving it a very unique and strange look. The firing pin is in the frame. Oddly, this is NOT a safety. With the hammer down, you can see the pin being forward to contact a theoretical cartridge. I have no idea why Great Western made this change, and can see no way to get rid of the feature. The Dragoon has something very similar going on. Again, no firing pin on the hammer.... ...because it's in the frame. Again, not a safety though. Instead, it has one of these... This is a dual position cylinder pin. In the rear position, the gun goes bang. In the front, it causes the pin to stick out the back of the frame, preventing the gun from firing. It works, but I'd not use it. To much of a hassle to "deactivate," and when you put it back in after cleaning, make sure you put it on the correct position. And finally, my .45's The top is a Uberti Cimarron, with the dual position cylinder pin type safety. Next is another American Arms Uberti, (Whatever happened to American Arms?) with the Safety Notch Block. The third gun is an Armi San Marco set up to look like a GI pistol, right down to the US on the frame. It has the dual position cylinder pin safety. And last, but by no means, least, is my (in)famous Big Iron. It's an Armi San Marco that started life as a generic 5.5" barrelled revolver. It also has the dual position cylinder pin safety. Here's pic of it... It's a little different from the Virginian, but you can see the similarity. I'll go on record that, in spite of it's being too impractical to actually use, I find this to be the least "offensive" of all the safeties to be found on the clones. Not only is it not noticeable unless you really look for it, it is easily done away with by replacing it with a Colt pin, which fits. If an SAA type revolver MUST have a safety, this is the kind it should have. And those are my clones. Curiously, I don't have anything made by Pietta. Has anyone encountered a clone with a different kind of safety than what I've seen here? I'd be curious to know about them. Or were/are there any other makers of clones? As soon as I type that, USFA and Standard Manufacturing come to mind, but I don't have any of those either. Anyone else want to share their clones?

A quick check says Buffalo Arms has bullets in stock you can use for .50-70, but they are out of stock on brass.

Man, I'd love to go to that! But it's about as far from Boston as you can possibly get. 72 hour drive, 88 hours via Seattle to minimize time in Canada. And you gotta go through Canada to get there... (9 Day drive.) Flying with all those guns and ammo would be... Difficult...

Let me add some clarification. The link on Page 1 at the beginning of the thread works just fine. Just this one here on Page 2 seems to have a problem.

Broken link.