The Original Lumpy Gritz

Take the front cover, over the wheel off, and you'll see what needs to be done.

ALWAYS

Bacon grease

OP Check ALL screws for tightness.

B

Try some factory ammo also.....

Go to Ace Hardware and buy a few #10 AN washers. Use them, one at a time, at the base of the hammer spring.

Was this a factory new gun when you bought it?

Are the primers fully seated to the bottom of the primer pocket? Did you install a lighter hammer spring?

Not familiar with that one. How does it look installed on the other wheel?

Don't 'fix' what ain't broke

Well, you never stated the caliber Do the cylinders turn and index correctly when you cock them? How do they perform when live firing?

Sure you don't have the cylinders switched?

Now, post the same breakdown for Governor.

Call RG and send them pictures. We would like to see some too. RG has used several different way to attract the wheel.

Do you use a case gauge to confirm cartridge fitment? You need to back off the thumb screw on that LFCD about 1/3 turn. Did you have the die base touching the shell plate on full stroke?

Look at the Lee Factory Crimp Die. You want a FIRM roll-crimp!

Started using Unique in 1967. All that I use for following SASS loads, .32 S&W, .38 Special, .44 mag and 12 gauge. The use of a firm roll-crimp helps with the powder burn. My second choice would be WW231/HP38.

How old is this powder? Do you spray lube the cases for sizing?

Try different ammo

Can't steer'em.

I started reloading in 1967. Properly stored powder, will out last you.

Trade it for Unique or WW23I/HP38(same powder).

You can load every caliber, and shotgun gauge used in this game with Unique powder.

296 and 110 are the same powder. It's outstanding, for top end magnum handgun loads. Meters great...... Do NOT go below minimum load data!