Matthew Duncan Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 (edited) I got my courage back up and decided to have a look see at the Cocking Rods. Removed the rubber butt-pad by removing the two screws with a Phillips. 12 MM socket and long extension to remove the bolt that holds the stock to the receiver. Then removed the side plates by removing two screws per side plate. Now I have access to the "guts" Here is the Left Cocking Rod. Opening the action causes the Cocking Rod to be pushed forward cocking the Hammer. When the action is closed a spring pushes the Cocking Rod rearward. To remove the Cocking Rod you need to remove this pin. I used a hammer and a punch. I discovered a hammer wasn't needed, pin was easily pushed out with a punch. I pushed the pin to the center. This created more effort to reassemble. If I was doing it over again I would have taken a large paper clip, bend a ninety in it and pushed the pin from the inside out. Spring tension is released when the pin is removed. I kept my finger over the end to keep the spring from sending parts into orbit. ion. Look like the manufacturer used some type of brown oil for lubrication? Left Cocking Rod I miked at 3.657". The right miked a bit shorter at 3.651. Nostrum Damus recommends, "...shorten the rods to the point where the hammers, after firing, are ALMOST BUT NOT ACTUALLY touching that inside wall of the receiver. " I didn't feel comfortable shortening my Cocking Rods, I have the tendency to over do. I cleaned the parts, oiled and a dap of Tipton Molly Super Lube where the Cocking Rod contacts the Hammer. If after this year's SASS season I might reconsider, order replacement Cocking Rods just in case and follow Nostrum Damus's suggestion. Edited February 14 by Matthew Duncan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Maverick Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Have you checked out Ken Griners web site and what he does in his tuneups? https://grinergunworks.com/cowboy-action/ CZ Sharptail Action work that sets us apart from the rest! Modified hammer spring struts and new hammer spring stop plate. This allows for easier replacement of the hammer springs and much easier cocking of the shotgun. Also our low profile extractor conversion, for easier and faster reloads! As another option, we can bend the lever for a shorter reach. I have not had any issues with my 2 after his work. He makes his own parts and would at least be worth a phone call. Thanks TM 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lead Monger Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 If you look closely at the interaction between the hammer, cocking rods, sears, hammer spring guide rods and firing pins you can see clearly that; 1. The cocking rod length has nothing to do with where the hammer comes to rest after firing. The rod only controls how far the hammer is pushed back when the action is open. 2. The length of the hammer spring guide rod and the firing pin spring control the position of the hammer after firing. The guide rod is adjusted to allow the hammer to rebound slightly so the firing pin can retract under the force of its spring. If the hammer is held against the receiver wall the firing pins will protrude through the breech face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oak Ridge Regulator Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 I found when I did my gun the hole bored thru the frame that the cocking rods run thru was so rough the rods had to be pushed by hand to give the springs a little extra help, I made a lapping rod and polished them length wise to remove the drill cuts until the rods would slide out just by tipping the gun even without the springs, made a huge difference in smoothness 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 14 Author Share Posted February 14 (edited) On 2/14/2024 at 1:01 PM, Texas Maverick said: Have you checked out Ken Griners web site and what he does in his tuneups? No I have not. At this point I don’t want to ship it (and the related hassle) to a professional. Edited February 15 by Matthew Duncan Correct autocorrect 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 When you cock the action, how far past the notch on the sear, does the hammer notch travel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 14 Author Share Posted February 14 (edited) 3 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said: When you cock the action, how far past the notch on the sear, does the hammer notch travel? Without removing butt and side plates again I don’t know. Edited February 14 by Matthew Duncan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 (edited) 3 hours ago, Matthew Duncan said: Without removing butt and side plates again I don’t know. Check it out when you can. Edited February 15 by The Original Lumpy Gritz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 17 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said: When you cock the action, how far past the notch on the sear, does the hammer notch travel? This far: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 Shorten the rods in .010 increments, untill the hammer notch is about 1/8" behind/past the sear notch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 (edited) You’re really trying to get me to mess with the rods aren’t you! And since I have it apart….you think my table sander with course grit paper would be up to the job? Seriously. Lead Monger posted his rods were 3.668” and he took them to 3.635”. That’s .02 shorter then where my are now. I’m quitting while I’m ahead. Edited February 15 by Matthew Duncan 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 20 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said: Shorten the rods in .010 increments, untill the hammer notch is about 1/8" behind/past the sear notch. Looks like they’re at a 1/8” now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 Use your calipers, not a ruler...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 1 hour ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said: …untill the hammer notch is about 1/8" behind/past the sear notch. With my ruler I can measure to “about 1/8””. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 1 hour ago, Matthew Duncan said: With my ruler I can measure to “about 1/8””. Do you have a set of dial calipers? You're gonna need to measure the OAL of the cocking rods to .001, to keep the length equal as you remove material 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 17 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said: Do you have a set of dial calipers? Yes I do. I’m leaving the rods as is for now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 1 minute ago, Matthew Duncan said: Yes I do. I’m leaving the rods as is for now. Trimming the rods really helps in the action staying open when loading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lead Monger Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 If this helps. My final number for the cocking rods after squaring and polishing both ends is 3.630” and 3.631. This gives about 0.025” over travel. Looking at your pictures I would knock off about 0.002” at a time and check the operation. Remove both rods when checking so one doesn’t interfere with the other. I think you are within 4 or 5 thousandths and it does make a difference in how the action hangs open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 2 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said: Trimming the rods really helps in the action staying open when loading 24 minutes ago, Lead Monger said: If this helps. My final number for the cocking rods after squaring and polishing both ends is 3.630” and 3.631. This gives about 0.025” over travel. Looking at your pictures I would knock off about 0.002” at a time and check the operation. Remove both rods when checking so one doesn’t interfere with the other. I think you are within 4 or 5 thousandths and it does make a difference in how the action hangs open. STOP IT!!! THE BOTH OF YA!!! I’ve got my mind made up not to and y’all are messing it up with facts! Ok. Perhaps, maybe after I’ve got my Federal AND State taxes done I’ll be in a better frame of mind to grind the rods down. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bill Burt Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 6 minutes ago, Matthew Duncan said: STOP IT!!! THE BOTH OF YA!!! I’ve got my mind made up not to and y’all are messing it up with facts! Ok. Perhaps, maybe after I’ve got my Federal AND State taxes done I’ll be in a better frame of mind to grind the rods down. Buy replacement rods and do the work to them. If things work out, great, go to it. If they don't, put the original rods back in and chalk it up to experience. Then send OLG the bill for the rods. 2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 44 minutes ago, Captain Bill Burt said: Buy replacement rods and do the work to them. If things work out, great, go to it. If they don't, put the original rods back in and chalk it up to experience. Then send OLG the bill for the rods. THIS ^^^^^ Call CZ-USA and they will ship the rods to you, IF they are in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 On 2/15/2024 at 8:58 AM, The Original Lumpy Gritz said: …hammer notch is about 1/8" behind/past the sear notch. 1/8” = .125 Left hammer notch is .116” behind/past the sear notch. Right hammer notch is .122” behind/past the sear notch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 1 hour ago, Matthew Duncan said: 1/8” = .125 Left hammer notch is .116” behind/past the sear notch. Right hammer notch is .122” behind/past the sear notch. See the backside, towards the rear, of the notch cut in the sear? When the SG is held fully opened, you want the hammer notch just about equal to the back side of the sear notch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lead Monger Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 On 2/15/2024 at 10:55 AM, Matthew Duncan said: STOP IT!!! THE BOTH OF YA!!! I’ve got my mind made up not to and y’all are messing it up with facts! Ok. Perhaps, maybe after I’ve got my Federal AND State taxes done I’ll be in a better frame of mind to grind the rods down. I have removed the stock so I can shorten the length of pull for my wife. This is the last opportunity I’ll have too mess with your head. This is the overtravel with a rod length of 3.630” and the second pic is the other side at 3.631”. Easy does it. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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