Matthew Duncan Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 (edited) First. I'm very well please with the fit and quality of the exterior of the Sharp-tail. The guts need some work for SASS. The Sharp-tail has a rather pronounced extractor and has two parallel guide rods. The bottom rod looks like the manufacturer tried to cut threads into it and didn't do a very good job. After polishing both rods the extractor would slide closed until the last 1/16", then required some force. I believe the two rods weren't 100% parallel. I noticed the last three digits of the Sharp-tail's serial number was stamp on the extractor so it must have been a custom fit. I'm crediting Nostrum Damus and The Original Lumpy Grits for forcing me to resolve this problem. True Gunsmith's/Craftman stop reading. You have been warned. I dug out my Dremel tool and put a 1 1/2" cutoff wheel on it. Masking tape on the front of the extractor to draw a straight line where I'll be cutting it in two. Holding the extractor in one hand and holding the Dremel in the other resting on my leg I slowly start cutting. If I screw this up getting a custom fitted replacement will be difficult. Insert drum roll here. I did it. And the extractor no longer sticks in that last 1/16" of closing AND the action now opens part way with one hand! I still need to do a bit of polishing on sharp edges I created. I'm wondering if a Jeweler's saw would have made a finer cut? Any ideas, other then JB Weld, to "pin" the top part of the extractor to the barrels? Edited February 14 by Matthew Duncan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 How much does it rock/rotate side to side now? Yes, on the jewelers saw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 27 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said: How much does it rock/rotate side to side now? Yes, on the jewelers saw Enough that it could be possible to interfere when closing on empty chambers. I’ll thinking a wide shim between the flat part of the rod and set screw might solve that problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawnee Hills Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 Make sure that the bottom of the set screw is flat, screw in until it’s slightly snug on the extractor rod, and then back off just enough to allow the rod to move freely. Doing this will allow the extractor to work as intended without interference from the cutout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 (edited) 2 hours ago, Shawnee Hills said: Make sure that the bottom of the set screw is flat, screw in until it’s slightly snug on the extractor rod, and then back off just enough to allow the rod to move freely. Doing this will allow the extractor to work as intended without interference from the cutout. Unfortunately my set screw is too short to snug on the extractor. I'd guess about 1/16" + too short. Now I'l thinking of ways of I can make it longer within my skill set. Perhaps a longer screw cut to length and a screw driver slot cut on top. Then a drop of Locktite. I do have a metric thread gauges. With the aid of my fat fingers holding the short screw and a magnifying glass threads are 0.75, whatever 0.75 means. Edited February 10 by Matthew Duncan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lead Monger Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 Amazing, the condition of the extractor guide rods out of the box. Mine were rough as a cob as well. I like your idea for extractor modification. Doesn’t the extractor rub on the breech face when closing the action enough too prevent it from trying to rotate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 (edited) 1 hour ago, Lead Monger said: Amazing, the condition of the extractor guide rods out of the box. Mine were rough as a cob as well. I like your idea for extractor modification. Doesn’t the extractor rub on the breech face when closing the action enough too prevent it from trying to rotate? I believe it should normaly. Unfortunately my set screw is short by 1/16" +. CZ is made in Turkey, threads are metric, my thread gauge says 0.75 and Al Bore's Internet translate that to a M4. I'll offer to take the wife out for supper and swing by Menard's to find out if they have an internal hex head screw I can adapt. Edited February 10 by Matthew Duncan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawnee Hills Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 1 hour ago, Matthew Duncan said: Unfortunately my set screw is too short to snug on the extractor. I'd guess about 1/16" + too short. Now I'l thinking of ways of I can make it longer within my skill set. Perhaps a longer screw cut to length and a screw driver slot cut on top. Then a drop of Locktite. I do have a metric thread gauges. With the aid of my fat fingers holding the short screw and a magnifying glass threads are 0.75, whatever 0.75 means. The factory set screw should be long enough. You really don't have to go much farther than how it was originally installed to get it to work. As long as the screw doesn't run out of internal threads, yer good to go. A drop of Loctite or nail polish works to hold it. If you do need a new screw, any good hardware or farm store should have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 35 minutes ago, Shawnee Hills said: The factory set screw should be long enough. You really don't have to go much farther than how it was originally installed to get it to work. As long as the screw doesn't run out of internal threads, yer good to go. A drop of Loctite or nail polish works to hold it. If you do need a new screw, any good hardware or farm store should have it. Factory screw is not long enough. Head bottoms out (runs out of threads). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawnee Hills Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 31 minutes ago, Matthew Duncan said: Factory screw is not long enough. Head bottoms out (runs out of threads). That's weird. The two CZs that worked on didn't have heads on those particular screws. They were typical set screws that were threaded from end to end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 35 minutes ago, Shawnee Hills said: That's weird. The two CZs that worked on didn't have heads on those particular screws. They were typical set screws that were threaded from end to end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eyesa Horg Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 Seeing the pic, I'd just go with a metric setscrew of the appropriate size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Mulo Vaquero, SASS #55942 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 Geeeezzzz, don't over think it. Just drill the hole the size of the head of the screw just enough deeper to make contact. No extractor wobble-easy sliding. That's what I do on them,.... its essentially what you're trying to duplicate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 (edited) 13 hours ago, Eyesa Horg said: Seeing the pic, I'd just go with a metric set screw of the appropriate size. Just got home from taking the wife out for supper and a stop at Menard's. 5mm x 6mm Metric Socket Head Set Screw is the replacement. Extractor wobble greatly reduced, no longer a potential problem. And while I have the LockTite out think I'll put some on the the smaller extractor rod (after de-oiling) to "glue" it in the barrels. Edited February 11 by Matthew Duncan 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lead Monger Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 Simple fix that should work great. Did you grind the face of the set screw flat and polish it? A side note. I revisited the cocking rods because the action would rebound if I wasn't paying attention just enough to prevent empty shells from falling from the chamber. The rods were about 3.668” in length and I shortened them to 3.635” which reduced the hammer/sear overtravel by half. The action opens a little further and doesn’t try to spring closed enough to trap shells from falling out. I could take a little more off the rods and it would open a tinny bit more but as they say; error on the side of caution! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 32 minutes ago, Lead Monger said: Simple fix that should work great. Did you grind the face of the set screw flat and polish it?… No I didn’t. Excellent idea. I couldn’t find my Locktite so I can easy polish the screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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