How to remove/tighten the arbor from an Uberti open top?

[Flaco Joe]

Hey Pards,

 

I have an Uberti R-M ‘51 in .38 spl that is one of my main match revolvers.  The arbor (cylinder pin) is loose, causing the barrel to have some wiggle.  I’d like to remove the arbor and implement a repair to tighten it.

 

How do I remove the retainer pin that prevents the arbor from screwing out?  My Pietta ‘51 Navy has a hole from the front of the breech face that would allow me to knock the pin out, but the Uberti doesn’t, at least not that I can see because of the breech ring for the conversion.  Maybe the questions should be, how do I remove the breech ring, then how to I remove the arbor retaining pin?  Do I have to drill the pin out?  I’m afraid to do that, because I’d enlarge the hole, which would necessitate making a larger pin to replace the old one once I put the arbor back.  

 

The breech ring has some play in it, moving slightly side to side, but not front to back.

 

How do I tighten the arbor once I get it out?  I have some shim material of varying thickness from MidwayUSA that I was planning to wrap around the threads before reinserting it into the frame.  I also thought about applying JB Weld around the arbor shaft, screwing the arbor back in, and letting it set.

 

I would appreciate advice on how to fix my loose arbor. Thanks

[J-BAR #18287]

I am not a gunsmith.  I had a loose arbor on one of my 1851s.  If your gun still shoots decent groups I would use it as it is, until the wiggle affects performance.

 

I drilled out the pin,  used JBWeld in the arbor threads, and made a new pin from the drill bit that I used to drill out the original pin.  I can’t say it is the best approach but based on the experience with one gun, it worked for me and the arbor did not wiggle after the fix.  If you do this, be sure to allow the epoxy to set while the barrel and wedge are in place to ensure proper alignment.  

 

Good luck.

[Rafe Conager SASS #56958]

Very interested in this topic, I too have a 51 navy that has barrel wiggle from the arbor wiggling. Not bad enough to affect shooting it but does bother me.

Rafe

[Lead Monger]

If you smack that pin with a punch and hammer it might snug right up. If not, drill it out on a drill press. Remove the arbor, clean it well and install it with a little JB weld on the threads. Install the barrel and wedge so the arbor is pulled straight while it cures. 

To lock the arbor in place do not use a drill bit shank or other hardened steel pin. You will never get it out again. Drill and tap the hole for a 8-32 set screw about 3/8" long and your all set. 

You could do the drilling and tapping before applying the JB and put it together all at once but it will work eat her way. 

Good luck Flaco.

[Rooster Ron Wayne]

I would recommend getting in touch with Mike @goonsgunworks.com 

Before you do something you can't undo .

Rooster 

[Flaco Joe]

Thanks for the tips everyone.

 

J-Bar, good idea on resetting the barrel and pin. 

 

Lead Monger, I should have just called you to begin with!  Thanks.  I’ll let you know how it goes.

 

Rooster, I did reach out to Mike.  Thanks

[45 Dragoon]

I fix loose arbors fairly regularly and quite often the owners didn't know they were loose in the first place! Many "new" open tops will show up with loose arbors. The way I repair them is like this:

 

 1- remove the staking pin by drilling it out. Often it will start spinning while you're drilling and will likely come out as you remove the drill bit. This will also help you realign the arbor when you reinstall.

 

 2- if needed, use the wedge inserted in the slot to help unscrew the arbor and clean the threads as well as the those in the recoil shield. Using a small hammer (I use an old tack hammer that was my dad's) upset the shoulder of the arbor that butts against the shield (or the conversion ring as in the OPs situation) in about 3 places. It doesn't take much. What you want is an interference fit when you reinstall the arbor so that you have to torque it back in place. I will use a "shop wedge" in the slot in the arbor and lightly tighten it in a vice (NO PLIERS ON THE ARBOR!).

 

 3-  I then torque the frame to position by watching the staking pin hole.  When you think it's right, check the alignment of the wedge slot by installing the barrel assy. Tweak as needed. When you're satisfied, install the cylinder and barrel assy and drive the wedge in tight to align the barrel with the arbor under tension. Leave it together while you install a new staking pin.

 

 4- a new pin needs to be fashioned to stake the arbor in place. Something malleable like a nail.

Chucking up a nail in a drill motor and filing it down to size is one way or if you have a bench belt sander (second most used machine in the shop!!), you can thin one down rather quickly. Using calipers is handy but not necessary. What you want here is a pin slightly longer than the depth of the hole and slightly over-sized for a forced fit. This is the reason for a malleable material. You want to be able to force fit it but be able to drill it out should you ever need to. With a suitable pin, drive it in place. File down any excess.

 

Techniques-

--  when torquing the frame into position, a large screwdriver can be used to to pry the frame around the arbor. Locate it against the recoil shield, not the front end of the frame.

 

 -- if you feel the need, you can upset more shoulder material after you test fit the arbor. If you were a little "heavy" with the hammer right off the bat, you can file some of the material you moved  and check the fit as you go.

 

 --  I don't feel it's necessary to use thread locker on the arbor threads but if you do, by all means do so.  

 

--  when I make the staking pin, I put a slight taper for easy insertion. When I cut the length of the pin, I only cut it about half way through the diameter of the nail. This allows you to hammer the pin in place without having to be careful of hitting the sides of the hammer slot or the need for a punch. When the pin is in place, just break off the remainder of the nail and dress down as needed. That gives you a flush factory type look.

 

 -- another option that some folks like is installing a set screw instead of a pin. If you have the time and ability it's your baby. I have the ability, just not the time!! Lol!! Besides, the original setup will normally last the life of the revolver and, removing broken taps cost way too much in time!!

 I feel the loose arbors that show up on new revolvers were just not torqued properly to begin with. I've never had a repaired one loosen up, new or used.

 

Mike

 

[Flaco Joe]

Thanks Mike.  I’ll have to re-read your notes again while I’m doing, because I can’t quite picture what you mean, but I’m sure it’ll all make sense when I’ve got the arbor off.  

[45 Dragoon]

I'll try and post some pics of a Dance Bros. I fixed yesterday. 

 

 

 

This is the shoulder.

[45 Dragoon]

 

This is displaced material. Should be done in at least 3 places.

[45 Dragoon]

 

New pin installed and dressed.  Sorry for the image position (I'm not sure why it happened.).

 

This Dance Bros. is brand new, out of the box and had a loose arbor. Of course, I've got the materials "at hand" as it is a somewhat common exercise and all bits and materials are normal daily items used in the shop. Ultimately, it's about a 10 min. process but then again, I've been practicing .  .  .   it's definitely something you can do.

[Flaco Joe]

Thanks again for the tips and the photos. 

 

Mike let me call, and he was helpful.  He's a good pard.

[Rooster Ron Wayne]

56 minutes ago, Flaco Joe said:

Thanks again for the tips and the photos. 

 

Mike let me call, and he was helpful.  He's a good pard.

Like I said Mike is always willing to help .

And a Great Guy Also.

Rooster