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45 Dragoon

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About 45 Dragoon

  • Birthday 07/22/1957

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    106478

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    www.goonsgunworks.com

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  1. It's mostly all the other power robing "things" that prevent a hammer from detonating a cap. All the springs sold by all the companies will definitely work as long as "everything else" is done. The hand drag, the handspring tension, the bolt arm tension, hammer drag in the hammer slot, hammer face condition . . . . so many variables. That's why "the" main spring that works in one revolver won't in another. When "thumbs" get put into the equation, the "edge of the envelope" comes into play . . . Mike
  2. I agree Blackwater, thanks for being there . . . he will be missed thanks to all that were there Mike
  3. Asking for your prayers for the Judge. He's had a health setback and needs your prayers. I've known and been friends with him since 5th grade (we are old!! ) and those of you that know him know that he has had a rough go but, he's big fighter with a big big heart and now, needs your intersession! He's a believer!! Thank you!! Mike
  4. Yes, someone offers a coil spring conversion for the Colt copies (both top straps and open tops), Remingtons and Ruger Old Armys ( obviously including the other 3 screw models). The Colts get a direct coil-torsion spring (ea.) for the bolt and the trigger and a frame mounted compression coil spring for the hand (Ruger style). The Remington patterns get a coil-torsion spring (ea.) for the trigger, bolt and the hand. This setup has proven to be "bullet" proof and with the addition of a bolt block and an action stop, to be an equal to the Ruger for "toughness" ( this goes for all Colt and Remington patterns). I believe I'm the first to coil spring a Remington action. I also found it easier to "redesign" the bolt (cyl latch) coil-torsion spring for Rugers to make a bolt block installation easier. A total redesign/relocation for the trigger spring gets it out from behind the trigger and up in the frame (where it otta be!). It has a much smoother action and more linear feel. (This can be seen in Chronicle in George Baylor's ROAs "Heaven" and "Hell" ). The addition of the bolt block and action stop in the Ruger increases the life of these revolvers as well. I've been doing the coil conversions for about a year now and it is the "center piece" of my service now. No user install kits available at this time. All springs are made "in house" except for the compression hand springs, they are sourced. Mike
  5. Abe, Captain, you guys are correct. I was posting about overall safety. I wasn't connecting "rule" as in the SASS rule book. My mistake. Mike
  6. The 1000 fps rule is for smokless loads. Blackpowder loads are fine as the pressure curve is the true "Demon". Mike
  7. RAM, if you get a Howell conversion, Taylor's conversion or a Kirst conversion you can most certainly shoot smokless ammo! It's one of the main reasons for their availability, the convience of shooting "ready made" smokless ammo. If you'll go to their respective websites, you'll see what the restrictions are for them, I believe the Kirst allows any "standard", lead (no +P loads) 1st tier 45C ammo ( 1000 fps or less ). You'll enjoy them immensely!! Converted revolvers are all I shoot!! Mike
  8. Thanks so much for the mention guys! I truly appreciate the SASS community. I've learned a lot from the "racing" community. You folks are the main reason why the "coil spring conversion" for the actions in the Colt pattern open top revolvers, Mod. P copies, as well as the Remington pattern is now the standard setup from my shop. I know this may seem like a little "overkill" to some folks but what is "too much" when it comes to performance? reliability? It's the setup used in the finest S.A. revolvers available today. Yours might as well be too!!! Thanks again, Mike By the way, there is a "standard" setup for ROA's as well. I have my own spring conversion for them (I'll send yours back to you). Yes, your ROA will be tougher and more mechanically accurate . . . . (thanks to George Baylor and J.T. for the time!!)
  9. Yes sir, position sensitive is "key" to looking for certain known problems. One of the most common would be (from your description) the transition to the breech face. The video link provided by July Smith is an excellent visual and explanation of the problem. You can test for this simply by pointing the muzzle straight up and rotating the cyl by hand. Watch the cartridge heads as they transition from the recoil shield to the breech face. Some of the rims with sharper edges may "snag" on the transition. Obviously, any downward angle from center would have the cartridges forward in their chambers which would, as you indicate, allow smooth cycling. I think MB was referring to the recoil plate which Uberti's don't have but he brings up the possibility of a burr that the firing pin can raise as it passes through the frame. If that is the case, filing it down will correct the problem and it more than likely won't reoccur. Mike
  10. I think Flash is on the right track. The Uberti's tend to have a more abrupt step up to the breech face as the round going into battery reaches it. You will need to radius the edge of it for a smoother transition. Mike
  11. Ha!!! You are exactly right!! Lol! I can remove all the "other" obstacles but I can't load um for ya!!
  12. If the lighter main spring "doesn't work", it's probably a culmination of other " things" that is at fault. Mainsprings are often blamed but are truly not the problem. Stout handsprings, tall cams, thick bolt arms can be "the" problem or a culmination of all. Your trigger will be lighter after installing the reduced main as well. Mike
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