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45 Dragoon

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About 45 Dragoon

  • Birthday 07/22/1957

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  • SASS #
    106478

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    www.goonsgunworks.com

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  1. WC, you could have just punched the cam out from the back side and bypassed the grinding step. (But then again you would've missed the fun of using the Dremel !!) Of course I watched again and I missed the part about the possibility of some Weld being involved the first time (wasn't trying to be a Smarty). Mike
  2. Understood but if you want an actual/close copy of a "period" revolver (or just don't want a 2 pin Ruger), you can make them as tough if not more so and as reliable as a Ruger! No slap at Ruger though, just a "mark" to achieve. The plus you get is a Colt type action, correct timing an no "beauty rîng" on the cylinder! It's all good!! Mike
  3. The answer then is to make the '72s "utterly dependable" ! Mike
  4. How heavy is the hammer pull? If you have a gauge, measure the pull from the hammer face (roughly the same arc as your thumb). The main spring is the biggest "influencer" of trigger pull along with overly positive engagement. Mike
  5. Sorry for your loss DJ. It's tough putting a pet down . . . Mike
  6. Well as to the differences in Piettas in 25 yrs. , "modernization"!! The fit is better, consistent. The springs are better and for open top revolvers, they addressed the short arbor issue that has plagued every copy ever made!! The only downside is the parts still mimic 1970’s parts (thick bolt arms) and they're all still over sprung! And, downside or not, they make everything off of one platform (you know, Vega, Monza, Sunbird). That's great for production and being able to " mix n match" but it also means no pocket gun sized revolvers and no Walker/Dragoon revolvers . . . To me, Uberti has most excellent parts (bolts are more like originals) , lighter mainsprings, different sized (and close to correct) Models. But, they refuse to address the arbor issue!! So, best "out of the box" ? Already tuned new in the box from GGW's!!! That's the best!! (Wheww!!) (coming real soon). Mike
  7. Hint, the only reason a Colt SAA has 4 clicks is because it has a "safety notch". If your S.A. (of any make) doesn't have a" safety notch" , it is a 3 clicker. Otherwise, it has a timing issue. Mike
  8. What about videos that are already out there? Some I've seen are pretty scary!! A couple of hints: -if they continuously keep calling the part by the wrong name (or even 2 or 3 names) or - if they tell you up front to get extra parts, lots of parts, parts are cheap . . . I would say watch the video to see what NOT to do !!! I've seen posts with advice given that came from such videos . . . I've had to replace parts that were "tuned" by following the crap these guys teach!! As Widder said, a really good book or manual is an excellent source. It will give you nomenclature of parts, "how to" sections, correct sequence for fitting/tuning (so you don't go in circles). That at least will give you enough information to familiarize yourself so you can tell if the video is legit or just some Yahoo showing you how screw up your revolvers! Also, like Widder says, nothing can help more than talking with those that can explain exactly why and how, what leads to failure or longevity. I spent many many hours on the phone with Jim Martin. When he described hows and whys, I could understand exactly what he meant. I've considered doing a video several times but until I get caught up, it won't happen (don't start, I'm making good headway now!!)! To do it correctly would take hours and hours including talk of methods and techniques. It's a good thought though!! Mike
  9. Cypress Sam, you're absolutely correct!! I pretty much live in the "single fingered hand" world!! Glad you pointed that out! I'd be in trouble if he shortened the top hand ( like i said above, careful who you listen to!! Lol!!). You're right about the hand slowing the cylinder down for lockup too! That's why i use a stouter spring for my coil/coil conversions. Throw-by is also indicative of a mal-adjusted or cracked flat hand spring. Mike
  10. This is a little alarming, I'm sure this was learned from watching a YouTube video (he always tells you to get extra parts . . . and he ain't kiddin!!! (You're gonna need um!!!)). You don't adjust timing by filing on the cam, you file or sand on the left bolt arm. By the way, I'm not admonishing Trailrider per se, those videos have been watched (and followed) by too many people!! YouTube isn't the best place to learn how to fix your revolver (especially when they can't even name the parts correctly half the time!!). Even when cams were a separate part, you don't set the bolt drop by filing away on the cam. Today, the cam is integral with the hammer so . . . You can " adjust" the height of the cam, polish the cam but don't diminish the circumference of the cam to adjust timing. Replacing a bolt is cheaper than a hammer. The left bolt arm is supposed to fall off the front of the cam as it is being pulled rearward (not slide off the side as the video suggests). Anyway, just thought I'd share that little bit . . . maybe it'll save a cam or two. Mike
  11. It's probably the difference in the hand location between the two hammers. Hammers and triggers aren't "drop in" parts . . . oh, they may function . . . kinda. In Wild 45's case, the hand is probably still putting pressure on the ratchet at lock-up. That will cause throw-by. The fix would be to dress the top of the hand some. This may cause the original hammer to not allow complete carry-up (assuming your using the same hand on both hammers). You can verify this by checking the cylinder rotational play with hammer at rest and at full cock. If there's no play at full cock, hand is too long. Mike
  12. Dangit!!! I forgot the Black & Tan !! or even a couple pints of Guinness . . . Good call Yusta B
  13. GordonBH, why not clean it as best you can and then pack (like a bearing) the frame with some Mobil 1 grease? That will take care of internal "cleaning chores" for years (maybe for rest of its life since it's a cartridge gun). Just clean the barrel and cylinder and wipe down the frame. Mike
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