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45 Dragoon

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About 45 Dragoon

  • Birthday 07/22/1957

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    106478

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    www.goonsgunworks.com

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  1. Those Remi fact. conversions are really sweet revolvers!! I had one in the shop a few months back. Nice choice !! Mike
  2. "Truer" words never spokuth!! Mike
  3. Correct, "they are not Rugers" but, they can be made to be as tough, fast and reliable as the fastest Rugers !! They have just as much ability to be in the "winner's circle" as any Ruger . . . . and I am a fan of Rugers!!! It's not a slap at Ruger, more a "pat on the back" that Ruger is the "mark" everyone wants their revolver to meet!!! It is possible . . . Mike
  4. Tully Mars, you are correct sir!! That's why it's a "clearance" and not a "gap". A bushing allows for a "gap" which is a "defined opening" whereas a "clearance" is a maximum opening. And, since an open top revolver actually "kisses" the barrel each time the action is cycled, it's "self cleaning" whîch allows for such a tight clearance! Pretty cool!!! The tight clearance gives you more efficiency which means better burn which means more velocity/energy!! Awesome!! Celebrate your open tops!!! So, as far as the Piettas having a correct arbor, they may for the "norm", but I don't do norm! I have to close them down to my tolerances. Mike
  5. Tully Mars, I understand what you're saying but my requirements call for a .0025" - .003" barrel/cyl clearance, not .005" + . Mike
  6. If I had a choice, I'd go with Uberti. I know each camp has their champions and then again, some don't care. Any of them can be made excellent competition guns. As already mentioned they both need work but mostly in different areas. The Piettas action parts are basically '70s design (LOTS of massaging!!) made with modern technology (careful, you'll break um!!). The Uberti's have the best parts and more correctly made ( less massaging) but they have the short arbor problem (which is fixed easy enough) compared to just adjusting (shortening) the Piettas arbor. I personally would go with Uberti because of the more refined action parts. Mike
  7. Well like I said, it's the area I work in which would be what I'm most accustomed to. I did list them from '58 cap gun to the '90 so all are included. Also, just as Shooting Bull suggested, some heft may be helpful to some. The OP wanted suggestions and that's what I gave. No need to shy away from "non-coil" revolvers, they can be fixed!! That's what I did to the Remington pattern! It's the biggest advancement for them since 1890 !! Mike
  8. Lol!! Well, sure you can run them as fast as you can run Rugers or Piettas (or Uberti's)!! Like I said, set up with coil hand ,bolt and trigger, they'll last as long as "other" coil actions and I'd venture to say you can't out run them!! They are great when set up correctly for competition!! Just did another pair yesterday!! As far as light, I was comparing ROA vs REM. "cap guns" (which is mostly what I work on). But, since a new light has been shown on the subject (thanks Shooting Bull, excellent input!!) Some heavier Rems. may be a more "steadying" package. Wow!! Gotta love it when a plan comes together!! Mike
  9. Just so you know, coil springs in Uberti's /Pietta's (cartridge or cap gun) put them head to head with Rugers as far as durability goes. So, the possibility of a more correct look, half cock action, or feel can still have the life of a Ruger. Rugers are great guns but don't pass up other great guns just for coils. Heck, coils can be put in all the Colt and Remington patterns. There ya go, . . . not sure I saw anyone mention Remington's. They come in cap gun, '58 cart. conversions, '75 and '90 versions. Who knows, you may like a Remington! ( Btw, Remington's are a much lighter revolver which definitely helps in the speed Dept.) Mike
  10. Thanks Jack!! I know "Judge" ( but I still called him Wally, known him since 6th grade!!) would be so proud !! Thank you for your words! Wish he could still come sit in the shop with me . . . good times . . . Mike
  11. Ok, that's a Ruger-esque type setup. Same same applies as far as setup goes. The hand spring is a "frame mounted" coil and plunger just as the Ruger (and most everyone else . . . including me!!! Lol!). The #35 spring in the view is the combination bolt/trigger spring (hand spring and plunger are #47 +#48). Mike
  12. In that case, make sure the bolt is "resetting" (so that it will move when you start the cycle again). If not, that is the problem (at least the primary prob.). As you have seen, a locked cylinder won't turn. If the bolt is resetting, the hand is too long (bolt isn't out of the way before the hand engages the ratchet. One of these corrections should allow the action to cycle, so now you can "setup" the action. 1st step is having the bolt head snap into the locking notch simultaneously with reaching full cock (this involves adjusting the hand length). Once that happens, Step 2. Adjusting bolt drop ( bolt "dropping" onto the cylinder) to basically a bolts width before the locking notch (about midway in the approach if one is present). This involves adjusting material on the left bolt arm (in a Colt type action) or the tail of the bolt on a Ruger style bolt. Holler if you need help with that. Mike When you say a broken hand, are you referring to a spring mounted on the hand or an actual "broken" hand?
  13. I'd say the new hand is too long (needs to be fitted) which means it is trying to turn a still locked up cylinder. Mike
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