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45 Dragoon

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About 45 Dragoon

  • Birthday 07/22/1957

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  1. Eyesa, they look fine. Here's a tip though, the ones in Tyrel's guns were thinned to fit the notch in the hammer. You need to keep as much of the hammer face as possible for the best reliability. Just trying to help . . . Mike
  2. Eyesa, believe me, I totally understand!! Lol!! Mike
  3. I think the last statement is the most troubling . . . . for those of us that do . . . So what yer saying is if you spend $200.00 - 250.00 on a $250.00 gun, and what you get back functions better and as reliably as a $1,000.00 + S.A., it's not worth it? Which would give you a two-fer? I'm not necessarily " not understanding", but a tuner or gunsmith also imparts technique and knowledge and "the best way" or a "better way" than the kitchen table guy (that read a book!). . . we've done a few . . . Getting back "tuned" vs "worn out" is a big difference as is "wearing to longevity" vs "early demise". You apparently understand about " antique trucks " so maybe you understand the difference between a "rebuilt" engine and a "balanced and blueprinted" engine? You get what you pay for . . . no matter what the arena . . . (just speaking up for "those that do this" . . . post brain picking. .. .. .) No harm intended . . . Good luck this weekend! Mike
  4. Haaa!! Anything in the rules about bringing your own fan?!!! Mike
  5. Great question!! When the hammer drops, pops a cap and lights off the main charge, the path of least resistance is back through the nipple. The pressure builds and tries to push the cap hull off the nipple. A heavy mainspring helps to keep the cap on the nipple. A light mainspring (allowing a 4lb. hammer draw) will allow some lift of the hammer and a cap hull / fragments are free to go where ever. Enter the cap post!! The C.P. is a physical structure that stops the cap hull from moving any further to the rear and thus, the hammer with it. Therefore, a light mainspring can now be used to allow a more "cartridge" type setup which will be much easier to opperate than an 8 lb hammer draw. Oh !!! Hello speed !!!! Mike
  6. I agree that there are many "schools of thought" on fixing the "cap sucking" prob. Personally, I'm a big fan of the cap post (rake for some). My instruction to customers is to cycle the action with "authority" !! This will help the post remove any fragments in the hammer nose and toss them away from the hammer slot. Of course cycling the action in this manner can be "tough" on revolvers not setup for this as "normal" operation. Cycling slow gives more opportunity for caps/frags to not clear the slot and fall into the action anyway. I designed an "action shield" for this exact reason. It keeps caps, frags and fouling from entering the action (down the hammer slot) and keeps presenting the debris (each time the hammer is cocked) so it can be dumped. It works exactly as intended!! As Coffinmaker mentioned, the cap post allows a lightened mainspring to be used (the post limits rearward hammer movement). Some folks don't mind a heavy main but those with arthritic thumbs need a "thumb friendly" hammer! Not to mention the folks that are interested in being fast . . . heavy mains are just not fast. Mike
  7. Thanks Rooster! A local Smith should be able to do that correctly (even if they aren't "familiar" with the open top). -drill (remove) the staking pin (seen in the hammer slot). - unscrew the arbor - slightly upset the edge of the arbor (prominent diameter just ahead of the threads), - clean up the surfaces and reinstall the arbor (staking pin hole is alignment mark) you will need to torque it into position. - confirm the position by installing the barrel assy and wedge and install new pin (not hardened) while the assys are together/under tension. File pin even with frame. Mike
  8. Thanks July Smith and Sourdoughjim !! S.D., the other thing to look it would be the barrel wedge slot itself. When the barrel assy is mounted on the arbor, you should see the forward most part of the slot in the arbor. That is the "bearing surface" the wedge contacts on the arbor. The rear most part of the slot should have a void where the arbor slot is. This means you should only see the sides of the barrel slot and none of the arbor surface. The rear contact for the wedge should be the two sides of the barrel. That's how the tension from the wedge is applied to hold the two assemblies together. Front contact is the forward material in the arbor slot, the rear contacts are the sides of the barrel slot. Sometimes the arbor slot is too short (front to back) and there may be contact of the rear of the arbor slot along with the sides of the barrel. This condition won't allow tension between the two assemblies. The fix is to extend the arbor wedge slot further to the rear. Installation of the set screw in the end of the arbor (as already explained) will restore the "fit" of the wedge. Make sure you grind off the cutting surface of the set screw (nice smooth surface) to make the bearing surface. Mike P.S. Your post above was posted while I was "building" my post. If the arbor slot is short, a wider wedge won't help.
  9. Welcome Sourdough! Nice looking revolvers. What I've observed from others that install cap posts/rakes as a service (including myself) is that the post/rake is narrowed to fit the slot that's already in the hammer. That being the case, there is no reason the "safety slot" can't still be used as intended (meaning it still can trap a pin just as it did before ). The post not only removes any trapped fragments from the slot as the hammer is drawn back, it also is a physical barrier that blocks any fragments that may be loose and could fall down the hammer slot. Even with the lighter loads folks shoot in competition, a cap can be blown loose and with no barrier, it's a straight shot down into the action. That being the case, I've solved that possibility as well with the advent of the "action shield". It covers the action in the hammer slot and with its hooked end, will keep presenting any fragments each time the hammer is drawn. All the user has to do is turn the revolver over and the debris will fall out. It's very effective at keeping the action clear of debris and fouling. As far as the bolt being in the down position and putting pressure on the bolt spring, this is more of a problem for a much too heavy bolt spring. You only need 3-4 lbs. tension for the bolt to opperate properly. Many of the Italian S.A.s have as much as 7-9 lbs tension which leads to " trenches " dug on cylinders , cams being cut off the hammer and the heavy springs themselves are more likely to break from the excessive tension (saplings bend, Oaks break). I take the flat spring problem out altogether by installing coil springs in the actions. They can be individually tuned for their specific job and are much more forgiving when under pressure (such as a hammer down between chambers). My converted open tops have all the chambers stuffed with cartridges and the hammer down on the firing pin between chambers (Kirsts). Never had a spring problem (flat or coil). Mike
  10. It's mostly all the other power robing "things" that prevent a hammer from detonating a cap. All the springs sold by all the companies will definitely work as long as "everything else" is done. The hand drag, the handspring tension, the bolt arm tension, hammer drag in the hammer slot, hammer face condition . . . . so many variables. That's why "the" main spring that works in one revolver won't in another. When "thumbs" get put into the equation, the "edge of the envelope" comes into play . . . Mike
  11. I agree Blackwater, thanks for being there . . . he will be missed thanks to all that were there Mike
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