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45 Dragoon

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About 45 Dragoon

  • Birthday 07/22/1957

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  1. The "cresent" shaped cut on the left bolt arm is the "reset cut". It is I.D.'d in Mr. Pettifogger's picture of the cutaway. It needs to be slightly enlarged so that arm can slip over the cam so the cam can unlock the bolt for the next cycle. It's also the second " click" you hear when letting the hammer down from full cock . . . the first one being the hand selecting the next ratchet tooth. Mike
  2. Thank you sir!! Awesome cutaway!!!
  3. The bolt reset cut needs to be addressed. It needs "help" by moving the cylinder back and forth which "encourages" the bolt arm to reset. Once it resets, it works again! (Presto!!) Mike
  4. Barkeep Casey, those have coil torsion springs in them and a coil and pushrod for the hand. They May or may not have an action shield ( covers the action when the hammer is at full cock). A bolt block and an action stop is also the norm (they'll take whatever you can dish out!! Lol) The action should also be packed with Mobil 1 grease. The Judge would come sit with me in the shop sometimes . . . always a good time!! Mike
  5. That may be true for those that "slick up" revolvers or do their on "slickin up" . . . probably because they learned how to by watching a YouTube video or two. (Most teach you how to screw-um-up!!) Tuning a revolver properly will EXTEND the life of a revolver (competition or not) not reduce it. Everybody knows a "balanced and blueprinted" engine wont last any longer than a "stock" engine right? Riiiiiiight. . . . Same with a correctly TUNED revolver, it doesn't matter what you do with it, it should function flawlessly from then on . . . setting one up to "run" is different from setting one up to "get by" or "feels good" . . . Built-in " insurance " is what makes the difference . . . Mike
  6. Actually, it'd be easier to drive the old one out and replace it with a new one. That of course is if it's a separate part. First though, I'd drive it out and "clock" it so "new meat" would be in position and then profile accordingly. If it's not a separate part, I'd measure the diameter., grind flat then drill a new hole (smaller than the dia.) to mount a new section of drill bit of correct dia., ground down to allow mounting in the drilled hole. Replacing the hammer changes everything, timing, cycle length, trigger seer engagement . . . Mike
  7. More than likely the bolt drop is a little late, the bolt head isn't centered in its tracking ( to the rear, bad, in the center- correct, forward - ok), weak hand spring, weak bolt side of combo spring. A bolt block and action stop would be necessary for the most reliable/ parts saving additions. A S.A. out of the box ( "factory tuned" or not) isn't ready for "fast handling" but it's an easy setup for a lifetime of doing so. BTW, using a thick grease to mask a timing flaw is at most . . . a joke!! Funny thing though, if it's a Ruger, it's accepted as "normal". Mike
  8. The amount of "tension" applied by spreading the bolt arm should only be enough to keep the arm against the hammer. Reducing the tension to allow the arm to fall off the side of the cam is a problem that will only get worse. The bolt arm should fall off the forward surface of the cam because it is being pull to the rear as the hammer is cycled back. I dress both parts differently so they "lock" together so the arm can't fall off prematurely. W.C., you can blend the "break line" in the pic as well to smooth the transition (like a baby moon hubcap). The "reset cut" (on top of the bolt arm) is a must and should be polished. It should stop before or at the top outside rearmost corner to maintain the full width "contact patch" that rides the cam (which prevents early "slide off" as opposed to "drop off"). Mike
  9. The cam is too tall and the arm is too short (and probably too thick). Mike
  10. To the OP, I apologize for any highjacking of your thread. Mike
  11. Thanks, I'll try to dig up more. I make all of my action springs "in house" except for the compression springs for the Ruger type hand spring conversion. (That way, I never run out !! Lol!) Mike Here, the trigger and bolt springs are installed and you can see the bolt block held in place by the modified combo spring. It should be obvious now that the trigger guard is what imparts tension to the trigger/ bolt springs as well as what the action stop is installed on. This is the setup that will let Remingtons to easily run with Rugers . . . just better!! Lol (lighter weight) Mike
  12. Sure. First you have to remove the flat spring from the hand. Then you have to basically make a clevis out of the bottom of the hand. This means you remove material from the center portion of the hand (lower end). That leaves you with two sides for the mounting screw to pass through. The dual coil torsion spring mounts in the cavity created and is held in place (of course) by the mounting screw. I'll try and post some pics here. The mounting screw is tight against a permanent "grub" screw that mounted in the hammer. This keeps the mounting screw from going too deep which would allow the spring to escape if there is any room allowed by a too short mounting screw. It's not the easiest mod for the so called novice (not trying to dissuade anyone) but it does require parts mod which is more than enough reason I can't offer any kind of "conversion package". Mike
  13. Thanks Branchwater Jack. I knew about cap posts/rakes, cutting barrels, . . . I just thought adding operational enhancements that could be seen on the exterior wasn't allowed. Such as frame mounted hand springs (Ruger style) done on Remies would need a set screw as a keeper. That's not allowed. Likewise, a frame cut to allow a cylinder mounted bushing (gas ring) wouldn't be allowed . Maybe the rules have changed lately ? It took a lot of "figuring out" to finally come up with a way to spring a Remington hand with a torsion setup! Lol !! But, I think it's a better setup than the Ruger type would be. Once that was done, springing the trigger and bolt with coil Torsions was a little easier. That's how a "coil sprung" Remington became possible. Just saw all this and was curious. Thanks again, Mike
  14. Hmmm . . . I thought external mods weren't allowed? (Outside of hammer spurs, front sights). Mike
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