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Quick Rebar Target Stands

Rancho Roy

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I've used rebar when starting out also after reading an article on shooting steel and splash back or splatter I can see the concern for some ranges that use wide berms and more than one stage on a berm because believe it or not splatter can be focused since it is going off at an angle to what ever the lead hits.  It's a predictable angle something in the neighborhood of 35 degrees from the surface that's why if you look at the plates that are angled down you'll normally see a trough of lead in front of it parallel to the soggy line or it heads off to the side berm that's why sass recommends the targets placed parallel to the line not facing the shooter if they are not in line with the target the lead will bounce off at a shallower angle this way still hitting the side berm.  I've only shot one place that I recall that didn't use berms of any kind. That range was on a private ranch and was part of a section of land owned by the landowner and on match days the livestock was moved to a clear area along with the workers from what I saw.

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On 1/3/2017 at 8:44 AM, Cheyenne Ranger, 48747L said:

The only problem with rebar is they stay hot a long time after the welding is done--ask me how I learn this



I ask you how do you know?

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IMHO, lead composition is the biggest factor in richocets and injury.


No scientific evidence to back me up, only anectodal and personal experiences.


My pure lead C&B, and 20/1, projectiles have never been reported by Posse members to cause splatter

My reclaimed and new lead SG shot does produce splatter that hits me and others. Both have antimony in the mix.


When I have been hit while another Pard was shootin' rifle or revolver, he said "hard cast" each time I asked.


Just sayin'

Amarillo Rattler

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On ‎1‎/‎4‎/‎2017 at 0:12 PM, Sedalia Dave said:

Wife got hit in the thigh one day so hard it left a bruise through her jeans. Se was a good 20 feet behind the firing line when it happened and it hit hard enough that thought she had been shot.


Personally I think more splatter comes from targets that are WAY TOO CLOSE. The current trend of pistol targets at less than 2 yards and SG KDs at only 5 is going to create a lot of splatter.

Splatter is caused by angle and condition of targets (badly angled/ pitted or dinged surfaces) - composition of bullet (jackets, hard cast) - configuration of stands (legs/ hangers interfering  and/ or redirecting splatter direction) - composition of ground (splatter into gravel or hard surfaces that redirect or splatter themselves)

It is NOT caused by distance.


If you are maintaining that Incidents of splatter (at the firing line) that are caused by these factors may be "slightly" alleviated by adding distance - you may be correct.


Your wife was struck by a round TWENTY feet to the rear of the firing line.

Another thread mentioned a piece of lead traveling two stages over.

No projectile loses enough energy in three to five yards to change from bruising and drawing blood to "Shoo fly, get away from me".


So how far out exactly are you going to move the targets to "fix" the problem?

Another poster dramatically implored the OP to not let his wife shoot the targets unless the targets were set at SASS distances.

But a target that splatters and injures people, drawing blood, wounding posse members at 4 yards will not MAGICALLY stop doing so when placed at 7 yards.


So instead of placing targets out at distances that most dont want to shoot at... (and that are only a band aid for a different issue)

Wouldn't it really be better to actually find out why the splatter is happening and correct that?

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I have often thought about building a loosely packed sand trap beneath a few targets and see how that would effect the splatter.   I use angle iron for my stands, but make sure to place it so that it "should" direct the splatter back and to the side.  I also hang the target at the top and use light weight chains to pull the bottom of the target back.  That way I can adjust the angle depending on the ground

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