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Cylinder question - repair or replace?


J.J. Helms

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Good evenin' gents! I have my father-in-law's decades old .36 caliber Navy (brass framed) cap 'n' ball. Other than some rust on one side of the squared opening to a nipple, it appears to be in good shape. It's stamped as made in Italy but I've no clue by whom. Hawes Firearms of CA appears to have been the distributor many moons ago (per the stamped barrel as well).

 

My father-in-law (greatest firearm authority I've ever known and awesome guy) pased away in '06. Anyway, I'd love to get her up and running again.

 

Any ideas on where to look for a replacement cylinder OR can it be fixed? If so, who should I send it to for repair? It's too cool to sit around!

 

J.J.

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If the revolver stills functions OK I think I would clean it up real good, get some replacement nipples and shoot it. Rusting at the back of the cylinder shouldn't be any big deal. Lightly pitted should not compromize the strength. It will probably have to be soaked for quite some time in a loosening agent to get the old ones out.

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With the Brass frame shoot relatively light loads if you plan on shooting it frequently.

 

I stretched a brass frame 1851 years ago, I shot a standard load but I shot the crap out of it. Ended up giving to an Older gentleman to use for costuming, he used to reanact a Cracker Cowboy Belly Cheater. He was so delighted when I gave it to him. I had to tell him it was unsafe to shoot as it would not lock up properly etc...

 

Doc

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You might consider taking a closer look to see if there are any other stamped proof or date code markings (check under the loading lever) to help in IDing the manufacturer.

THIS ARTICLE is a good source re: Italian firearms.

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You might consider taking a closer look to see if there are any other stamped proof or date code markings (check under the loading lever) to help in IDing the manufacturer.

THIS ARTICLE is a good source re: Italian firearms.

 

Thanks PaleWolf and everyone else! The article could be a big help. I noticed several of the markings listed within the article on the firearm and will read a little further to see what I can come up with. Thanks again everyone.

 

Continued advice and suggestions are much appreciated!

 

J.J.

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With the Brass frame shoot relatively light loads if you plan on shooting it frequently.

 

I stretched a brass frame 1851 years ago, I shot a standard load but I shot the crap out of it. Ended up giving to an Older gentleman to use for costuming, he used to reanact a Cracker Cowboy Belly Cheater. He was so delighted when I gave it to him. I had to tell him it was unsafe to shoot as it would not lock up properly etc...

 

Doc

 

Thanks for your thoughts Doc! What loading do you recommend to keep it safe, fun to shoot, accurate, and long-lasting?

 

J.J.

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You might consider taking a closer look to see if there are any other stamped proof or date code markings (check under the loading lever) to help in IDing the manufacturer.

THIS ARTICLE is a good source re: Italian firearms.

 

After looking at the article, it appears to have been manufactured by Armi San Paolo S.r.l.

 

Any suggestions for searching out a new cylinder (if needed) are welcome!

 

J.J.

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Your chances of finding a Armi San Paolo cylinder are slim. Post a photo of your cylinder so we can see what the problem is. If its only surface rust, clean and shoot it. To be candid, an old brass frame ASP isn't worth a whole lot (except maybe for sentimental value) so finding parts might cost more than the gun is worth. Again, if the problem with your existing cylinder is just cosmetic, clean it, cold blue the affected area, and have some fun shooting it.

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The best recipe for brass frame longevity in your revolver is to reload the cylinder in a cylinder reload press.

The wear and tear on the shaft comes from leaning on the reloading lever to seat a ball. Don't take my word for it, investigate/ search on brass frame revolver reloadng and you will find that this is "wisdom imparted by the knowledgeable". OK, the gun might not be worth much, but if it hasn't been damaged/abused already , it is probably worth the cost of investing in a reloading press.

Before you do anything though, you need to knock the wedge loose and use the reloading lever to unseat the barrel. Only then will you be able to check that cylinder shaft for "tight in the frame". Don't mark up the frame when loosening the wedge, use a hard plastic mallet & a brass punch and a wedge removal fork only (tool marks are such a bummer) . And you needn't remove the wedge entirely, just enough so that it is dangleing at the wedge retainer screw, then you can place the reloading ram on the cylinder between chambers (on the web), and push to remove the barrel.

If you change your mind, or find that it isn't for you for some reason, I would love to purchase it to pair up with mine. Keep me in mind.

My 1851 was a kit gun distributed by CVA during the 1970's. My Dad put it together and never shot it, so it is up to me and my teenage son to christen it's virgin usage this spring. I'm really looking forward to it. The marking on mine is the initials A.S.M. which was manufactured in Italy by "Armi San Marco" ,although not the premiere black powder arms maker , it is likely far from the worst. I wonder how closely a Euroarms / Armi San Paulo resembles my Armi San Marco (parts interchange?) .?

 

I learned alot during my research, and might be able to pass on some tidbits if you are interested.

Although a decent cylinder reloading press will cost you about $60.00 , it will be offset by the MANY additional ball seatings that the frame/cylinder shaft can experience.

This is a good one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120674567515&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I would also suggest a maximum 17-18 volumetric grain powder load (real black powder) or 14-15 grain bp substitute (i.e. Hodgdon 777 FFFG[/u] ) ( never weigh it to measure, and for Heaven's (and yours) sake, DON'T guess) , watch that powder "FFFG" fineness designation on the jug, you want to keep with powder meant for hand guns & not rifles/ muskets.

 

I hope this helps, and please PM me if you decide that the gun will be sold, it would be so great to be able to shoot matching? bp revolvers with my boy come spring. Have a nice weekend!

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Thanks for all the help and thoughts on how to address this particular issue folks! We're having a few computer issues and will try to have them corrected before posting a picture. I'll also try to look into the reloading press idea. The good news is I have two brand new 1858 Remington New Army revolvers (8" Piettas), so I can work on this particular firearm as time allows without being pressed to meet a particular deadline. Again, I'll see what I can do about adding a picture or two for your collective thoughts!

 

Thanks!

 

J.J.

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