Badlands Bud #15821 Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 I never had much use for the free-spin pawls in Ruger vaqueros, but it look as though I'll be coming into a pair. Does anyone know if this is a reversible modification? Can I get my clicks back? Thanks for any info, Badlands Bud
gunblade SASS #10206 Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 I never had much use for the free-spin pawls in Ruger vaqueros, but it look as though I'll be coming into a pair. Does anyone know if this is a reversible modification? Can I get my clicks back? Thanks for any info, Badlands Bud I'm pretty sure you'll have to replace the pawl (or hand as it's also called) but that should be fairly easy if you're familiar with the innards of a Vaquero. You should be able to get new parts from Ruger.
Marauder SASS #13056 Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 Worst case, you may have to replace the Pawl or hand as that is the part that was filed, if needed. The New Vaquero's MAY be free spin if you just remove the little index pin and spring. In that case, just replace those. But some still do not free spin (one of mine didn't) unless you stoned the hand a little bit. http://marauder.homestead.com/files/FreeSpin.html
Badlands Bud #15821 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Posted February 3, 2011 Thanks for the info guys. It looks like I'll be needing to buy a couple of pawls if I don't have some in the parts drawer. Badlands Bud
West Fargo SASS # 1910 Life TG Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 I have what ever ya neen, just give me a shout. West
Bridog Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 Hello All, I have a couple questions about this - I'm a bit confused. I have heard in passing from others that you want a free spin pawl. What is the definition of "free spin pawl"? It allow you to spin the cylindar both ways, right... Do you lose the clicks and the indexing? What are the pro/cons? I have new model vaquero's that in rugers catalog say have reverse indexing pawls and I have an old model blackhawk. Thanks for shedding some light on this for me... Bridog
Marauder SASS #13056 Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 Yes, you will lose the clicks as the cylinder will "free spin" once the gate is opened. The original Vaqueros and Black Hawks clicked, but you had to stop "between" clicks to load the gun. Once it clicked, it went just a little too far to load or unload. So that was resolved with the New model. It stops at the proper location to load or unload. To avoid wear in all New Vaqueros, I recommend that shooters take out the indexer parts and make sure the cylinder free spins. Some do not because the pawl still slightly catches the cylinder - so that will slightly add some wear. Then modify it slightly so it free spins without clicks. Then, if you want the clicks, reinstall the parts. Long ago, we used to do full revolver reloads - that was the advantage to a free spin.
Dubious Don #56333 Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 Bridog, About the only advantage to free spins (cylinder spins both ways with no clicks) is it makes reloads on the clock easier and faster. If you also have the Power half-cock hammers, you have the option of putting the hammer to half cock when you open the loading gate and then you have clicks. The old model Vaqueros click AFTER the cylinder has passed the loading gate, the New Vaqueros click WHEN the cylinder is lined up with the loading gate. OMV's click on the hand, NMV's click on the spring loaded pawl (And here's a tip; some will click on BOTH and yes, with some NMV's you can remove the spring and plunger and have free spins BUT, most I've worked on won't do this without modifying the hand. I personally don't like to reporfile the engagement surface on the hand just to have a free spin, because I think this negatively impacts the longevity of these surfaces but that is just me. The proper hand has a tail that the loading gate hits when opened, swinging the hand back and out of the way. It is BTW, NOT a drop in part.
Bridog Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 Thanks I have a pard that was telling me for the New Model Vaquero's I can just remove the (sorry for the terminology) little plunger button and spring and it will free spin. As I think I am interpreting right, from your guys experience is this not the case. Don is there a way of looking at the the back of the revolver with the cylindar out and knowing if I'll get the free spin or if there would need to be some fitting/filing. Just looking at it, it appears there would be clearance, but don't know for sure??? Bridog
Ezekiel J. Rivers Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 Hey there Badlands. I did exactly what Marauder referred to in his post. Reach in there with an allen wrench, remove the index pin and spring and my cylinders spin with ease. It took all of 5 minutes. Now I just need all this rotten snow to disappear so I can go shoot! Best regards. Zeke
Widder, SASS #59054 Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 These particular pistols that Bud is asking about are 'Vaqueros'.....not 'New Model Vaqueros'. They are what some of us would call OMV's. ..........Widder
Dubious Don #56333 Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 If the hand (pawl is the same part, different name; I just call it the thingie that pushes the cylinder 'round) If that part does not protrude into the frame opening, should be level or below in the slot, it "probably will free spin if you take the spring and plunger detent out. Another way to check is spin the cylinder, if you hear two clicks for each chamber then taking our the plunger won't give you a free spin because the cylinder is ratcheting on both the pawl and plunger. Thanks I have a pard that was telling me for the New Model Vaquero's I can just remove the (sorry for the terminology) little plunger button and spring and it will free spin. As I think I am interpreting right, from your guys experience is this not the case. Don is there a way of looking at the the back of the revolver with the cylindar out and knowing if I'll get the free spin or if there would need to be some fitting/filing. Just looking at it, it appears there would be clearance, but don't know for sure??? Bridog
Bridog Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 Thanks Don - I'll check it closer tonight. I'm pretty sure I just have a single click on the rotation - at least on the one I was looking at last night. Have a good day - Bridog
theywalkamongus Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 I just got a Blackhawk from a pard and it has a deep ring (Ruge Ring) I would like to replace the cylinder and I think I herd that you could do some kind of a mod/fix to keep it from doing it again.Any help would be appreciated.
Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283 Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 I just got a Blackhawk from a pard and it has a deep ring (Ruge Ring) I would like to replace the cylinder and I think I herd that you could do some kind of a mod/fix to keep it from doing it again.Any help would be appreciated. Howdy ALL Rugers eventually develop what is called the Ruger Ring around the cylinder. It is part of the way they are designed. The bolt rises early on a Ruger, so it will always be bearing against the cylinder for part of the cylinder rotation. Typically, the bolt on a Ruger rises about halfway between one locking notch and the lead in to the next locking notch. I repeat, it is the way they are designed. Colts, and Colt replicas, on the other hand are designed so that the bolt does not rise until the lead in to the cylinder locking notch is over the bolt. With a properly timed Colt or Colt replica, the only sign of wear on the cylinder will be in the lead in to the locking notch. Unless something is drastically wrong, there is nothing structurally wrong with a Ruger that has a cylinder ring. It would have to be incredibly deep to affect the strength of the cylinder. I have seen lots of Ruger rings and I have never seen one that would affect the strength of the piece. On the other hand, some folks object to the Ruger Ring simply because they think it is not attractive. Hardly enough reason to justify buying and fitting a new cylinder. Remember, there is no guarantee that a new cylinder will drop right in, they are usually fitted to the specific gun at the factory. I do know of one way to alter the timing of a Ruger. It involves replacing the spring plunger at the bottom of the hammer with a longer one. This is not a standard part and will have to be made up out of drill rod. If you want specifics, go over to the Ruger Forum and click on the Revolvers section. Ask the question and you will get a specific answer.
McKenzie River Drifter, #74138 Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 Hog Leg Smith had a whole box full of them last time I was up there. McKenzie
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