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Mountain Man Gramps

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    108114
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    Escondido Bandidos, Cajon Cowboys

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vista, CA
  • Interests
    Being Grampa, photography, woodworking, and playing my harmonica. Too much fun!

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  1. I think I found the answer to my question by comparing the specs of various tumblers. They are spec'ed at holding about a 1000 rounds of .223 for every 5 pounds/7 liters of tumbler capacity. So I supposed I can safely assume around 1500 rounds of .38spec/.357mag and around 600-700 rounds of .38-55 for the same capacity tumbler.
  2. It sounds like the Extreme Tumblers Rebel 17 and Thumbler Tumbler brand (not sure which model) are the most recommended (and most expensive). Since I’m not in a hurry, I think I’ll wait around for a good buy. But I don’t know how to equate the weight rating of a tumbler to the number of rounds it will hold. Can anyone give me an idea? As of the moment, I’ll be cleaning .38spec/.357mag and .38-55. Yul, I agree with your recommendation of Dillon Media separators. They’re the only ones I’ve seen with a metal handle and a shaft that locks. I think I’ll pick up the one that matches the round capacity of the tumbler.
  3. I second Double Diamond in Escondido, CA. I just asked Double Diamond to make a stock cover for my Marlin. The hard plastic end plate kept slipping while I was shooting. I asked him for a cover that was a simple design with some non-skid stuff on the end. He came up with a really nice cover with some suede on the end that has eliminated all slip. He also added some padding on the inside to make it fit my shoulder a lot better. He did a great job. But he can make some real fancy covers as well. Take a look at the 3-D rattle snake in the "Dree" cover in the following link. His prices are also be best I've found for custom work. I highly recommend him! http://ddbleather.com/stock-covers/
  4. Yul, you’re too kind! I’ll take whatever you recommend. I’ve been doing more reading in Venturino’s and Garbe’s “Black Powder Cartridge Loading Primer” and realized I don’t have the right equipment to clean the cases after firing. MMG
  5. Prairie Dawg, do you find ceramic cleans the primer pockets properly or are additional steps needed? I’m planning on doing a good hot soapy soak in In an ultrasonic cleaner as a first step.
  6. I should add I want to clean BP brass including the primer pocket. I’ve read that a rotating tumbler with pins is the best way to do it. Tyrel, I’ll check it out. Thanks
  7. Anyone wanting to part with a rotary tumbler to tumble brass in stainless steel pins?
  8. Part of the fun of this game is the mental challenge. If all it was is hitting the targets from left to right, that would get boring real fast. The most mentally challenging stages are the most fun to me. If a mentally challenging stage is a P trap, then bring it on. BTW, I'm a new shooter and haven't had a clean shoot yet. Probably won't for a while. But the mental part is teaching me to keep my cool on the line, think about what I'm doing (even though it probably doesn't look like it) and don't rush. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast... I gotta remember that.
  9. Dannyvp, I also weight my rounds as the last step. But I found +/- 2.5 grains of weight variation between good rounds and I was only dropping 3.6 grains of powder. To figure out why I had so much variation, I weighted about 100 each of the bullets and cases. I found the bullets I was using (purchased from Missouri Bullet Company who I think is a good company) could vary by +/- 1.75 grains. And since my cases are reused cases from ammo I purchased before I started reloading, in other words a mix of brands, the case weight variation across my cases was about +/- 2.0 grains. In other words, if I didn't drop powder in a round with a heavy bullet and case, I won't catch it using a weight test. All this lead me to the conclusion that a final weight check to make sure I caught squibs isn't reliable. That's why I don't load without a RCBS powder stop. BTW, I load .38 special and .357 magnum. On the other hand, if you reload using only one brand of brass, my biggest variable, you'll probably be okay. As I use up my initial store of brass, I'm going to replace it with only Starline brass.
  10. As I'm sure you've discovered by now that there is more than one correct answer to most questions about reloading. But one thing I swear by is to have a powder check die in whatever combination of dies I end up using. Why? Mistakes happen when you're distracted and there is a lot going on in a progressive press to distract you just long enough to pass an uncharged or double charged case on to the seater. And the resulting squib during a match is frustrating and embarassing! I've tried the Hornady and RCBS powder check dies and swear by the RCBS. In fact, they call it a powder LOCK die. It doesn't just check, it locks up your press if you double charge or don't charge a round. It's caught me more than once no matter how careful I am. The Dillon powder check die squeals at you and some of reviewers said it was annoying. But the big thing to me is that the Dillon also doesn't lock the press preventing further motion until you correct the condition. To my knowledge, only the RCBS does that. The RCBS powder lock die is invisible until you make a mistake and then makes you fix the mistake before you can proceed. I like that. Just my two cents...
  11. PaleWolf, thank you for the clarification. I was trying to use the currently available Shooters Handbook, dated 1/2019, to figure this out. When you said the decision was handed down 1/2018, I was trying to find it in the current version. Thanks for the link to the official announcement. I missed that little red tag the first time I read it! I guess the bottom line is the little red flag trumps the Handbook. But it really would be helpful for newbies like me trying to understand this game if the Handbook was updated in a more timely manner.
  12. By way of perspective, I started this topic with the question of whether the Henry could be used in side matches since it was not a replica of an 1800's rifle. Since the Plainsman category requires "a SASS legal single shot rifle firing a traditional blackpowder rifle or revolver caliber cartridge", the Henry is not legal for Plainsman (not a replica or original 1800's rifle, therefore not SASS-legal). Under the Single Shot and Buffalo Single Shot, the rules say " Single Shot and Buffalo Single Shot firearms must be originals or replicas of single shot rifles manufactured during the period from approximately 1860 until 1899." Therefore the Henry is not legal in these categories either. The optical category states "The Optical Category firearms must meet the above restrictions with the following optical rules" that apply to optics. Therefore the Henry is not legal here. The Henry is not a lever action rifle, so it not legal in either lever action category. The only category it qualifies is the Open category since the rules state this category " may be used at the match director’s option to include those firearms not covered by other official Long Range Categories." I did not catch this when I first read the rules, but the Open category is a catch-all category for everything disqualified in the other categories. Therefore, the answer to my original question is that the Henry Single Shot Rifle is legal in only the Long Range Open category. (Sorry for the inconsistent fonts. Crazy editor!)
  13. Since Long Range/Precision side matches have 5 categories, plus the optional sixth “Open” category, would you not have 2 legitimate winners, one in each of two categories? The Henry shooter would not be able to enter any category except Open.
  14. Yul Lose, How can I resist that invitation! Shall do. BTW, if you need an assistant for the BBQ, I'm available.
  15. I'm looking for an inexpensive way to get into Long Range Rifle shooting and came across the Henry Single Shot Rifle. It is a break action single shot rifle available in .45-70 and sells for about $400 new. When I asked Henry's customer service if the rifle was patterned after any rifle of 1800's vintage, they said no. They said it is a modern design break action rifle. The SASS Shooter's Handbook page 31 says, among other things, " Single Shot and Buffalo Single Shot firearms must be originals or replicas of single shot rifles manufactured during the period from approximately 1860 until 1899", which would disqualify this rifle. But then the Handbook also says there is an open category which is defined as, " Open Category (may be used at the match director’s option to include those firearms not covered by other official Long Range Categories). (Page 30). So if I am reading this correctly, the Henry Single Shot Rifle would qualify for SASS long range competitions, but only in the open category. Am I interpreting this correctly? Before I consider dropping any more $$$, I thought double checking would be a good idea. My dream rifle is the Pedersoli Sharps Long Range 1874 Rifle 45-70 Government. But that is a $1900 gun. The Henry would be a way to get started and later trade up.
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