Mountain Man Gramps

You don't use steel pins in a tumbler. The ultrasonic energy is supposed to take their place, but its the pins that do the real tough cleaning. I used an ultrasonic cleaner and never ended up with shinny brass. The inside of the cases never looked really clean. I purchased Frankford Arsenal's tumbler, use steel pins and some cleaner and now my brass is shinny and clean through out.

Marshall, This may be a dumb question, but does the "waxy residue" act as sufficient lubricant for rifle cases going through a sizing die and powder through expander die?

Driftwood, Your posts are always an education. Keep them coming!

Sedalia Dave, thanks for the input. I checked out the 1050 and took a deep breath - $2400 plus options to load .40SW, .38 spc and .357 mag, my main shooting calibers And that's before the cost of the automation components! Now I know the price of the low risk path but it's way over my budget. From what I've seen so far, just the cost of the 1050 will buy all the automation components I need for the Hornady approach. My next step will be deeper investigation of automation components. Thanks everyone for you input.

I just found this link to the above video's designer. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224836005092?hash=item3459452ce4:g:C38AAOSwAs5iBv~r An advantage to this approach is that while it is necessary to deal with autoloading the components like the primers, bullets, and cases, you have the flexibility to choose what works best for you. For example, Mr. Bullet Feeder, the Australian 3-D printed case feeder, and whatever primer solution you chose. MMG

Thanks everyone for the input. However one thing missing is any support for the statements made. Sorry but I'm a engineer... The only supporting information is in favor of Hornady. The video shows it can be done. I have never heard anyone state WHY a Dillon is better than a Hornady. I never tried a Dillon, but my Hornady works rock solid. I'd like to hear why someone switched from Hornady to Dillon other than someone said something. I don't mean this in a harsh way, it's just that I've never heard an objective statement, just opinions. And unless I heard a good reason, I don't think incurring all the expenses of setting up a new manufacturer's press can be justified. Again, not striking back, just trying to not spend limited money that in the end may not advance me any further toward my goal. MMG

Interesting idea! Maybe bike pedal and chain? Make bullets and drop pounds at the same time!

Does anyone have any experience using the automated Hornady case feeder by Unique Parts Australia? Thanks!

After 40 years of swimming and two rotator cuff repairs, reloading sessions are starting to trigger shoulder issues. I’m thinking about automating my Hornady LnL AP press, particularly motorizing press operation and eliminating the lever. Pulling the lever hundreds of time is the direct cause of shoulder pain but then there’s case, primer and bullet feeding. For bullet feeding I’m using a Mr. Bullet Feeder with a Bully Mag from www.SoCalSW.com and that works real good. I’m manually loading cases. What experience is out there automating Hornady press operation? Any good solutions that won’t break the bank?

I picked up a killer deal on a .35-55 Uberti 1885 High Wall. I then launched out an investigation as to the proper bullet for best accuracy. The following is a cut-and-paste from my notes that I made during my investigation. I hope it makes sense. Bullet Stabilization Problems - (From Western Powder’s Reloading Manual, pg. 14 - 15). Rifles derive their name from the process of rifling that seems to have emerged toward the end of the fifteenth century. Grooves cut into the barrel impart a gyroscopic spin to stabilize bullets in flight. The rate of rotation, or twist, is measured by how many inches it takes a bullet to make one complete revolution. A bullet that is turned once every 7 inches is considered to be twisted faster than one that makes one full revolution in 14 inches. Shape, weight and length all affect how much twist is needed to stabilize a bullet in flight. In a .223 Remington, a 50-grain bullet may be perfectly stable in a one-in-14-inch twist. Using that same twist, a 77-grain bullet in the same caliber will be unstable and inaccurate. This is most easily seen when a bullet leaves an oblong hole in a paper target. In extreme instances, the hole will show a bullet in profile, called a keyhole. In Example 24, the hole on the lower right is an example of a keyhole strike. These three shots, fired at 20 feet, were from a one-in-12-inch twist .223 Remington rifle using 77-grain Sierra bullets. For the handloader, keyholing is an indicator that a rifle's twist is too slow for the bullet being tested. As a general rule, the longer a bullet in a given caliber, the more rapid the twist required. An unstable bullet indicates that a shorter (usually lighter) bullet is needed. Many bullet manufacturers print twist requirements on their boxes, especially if they are intended for a specialized rate. The opposite problem can exist when a bullet rotates faster than designed. Some .224-caliber bullets are built to expand in velocity ranges typical to the .22 Hornet. A rapidly twisted .22-250 Remington can literally spin one of these bullets apart in flight. A disintegrating bullet will leave a gray, wispy tail spinning out from the bullet hole in a paper target. It may also disappear in a gray puff on its way downrange. Here are my conclusions: Greenhill Calculations for RCBS mould 378-312BPS - Note the recommended maximum twist length is 16.74". Venturino and Gable recommend using 2 inches under the Greenhill number. Other results are as follows: For a bullet diameter of 0.378, Greenhill twist rate for the following length 38-55 bullets was calculated as follows: Bullet Length Max Twist Length 0.7 30.6" 0.8 26.8" 0.9 23" 1.0 21.5" 1.1 19.5" 1.2 17.9” 1.3 16.5" The Uberti .38-55 Highwall has an 18" twist. Using the Greenhill formula, the RCBS 379-321-BPS requires a 16.7" maximum twist, shorter than the 18” twist of my Uberti, therefore not a good bullet for my gun. The Lee 379-250-RF is too blunt and does not hold enough grease. The three Lyman moulds are either too blunt or single bullet moulds. Saeco has only overpriced single moulds. Buffalo Arms moulds are too pricey. The Accurate Mold 380-285-IL requires a 19.77" maximum barrel twist and is a good choice. See https://www.vcalc.com/equation/?uuid=fa6a549f-0929-11e5-a3bb-bc764e2038f2 for an on-line calculator of the Greenhill formula. If I spent as much time dry practicing as I spent on this investigation, I'd be a much better shooter. But then I enjoyed the process!

Thank you all!, very good input. It sounds like starting out with the Lyman 8 station and seeing how it goes is a good way to start. I like the combination of single station with a turret press if needed since you can take advantage of the turret convenience but bring in a single stage if needed. My goal is to make precision rounds but not spend all day doing it. I tried using my Hornady LNL progressive which is great for bullet rounds, but it destroyed too many expensive .38-55 cases. I’m convinced that a rotating shell plate progressive does not sufficiently align the case under the die due to the height of the case. The result is damaged cases. But since bullet cases are shorter the rotating shell plate works for them.

I'm starting to load more .38-55 and realize my progressive and cheap single stage presses are not the best way to go. I'm thinking about the Lyman 8 station turret press. Those of you who have experience with it, would you recommend it? They are on sale at the moment. If not the Lyman 8 station, what would you recommend?

Sounds good Jethro. I returned the Scholfield and ordered some .45 cowboy special. That way I avoid the shell plate issues. Thanks all for the help, MMG

True, but the Cowboy Special brass is shorter. I'm estimating that the 45 Scofield will let me drop about 20 gr of BP, just what I want. I'm thinking the Cowboy Short will hold too little BP.

Good advice. I just ordered some brass and a Lee .45 Schofield die set. The nice thing about the Lee 3 die set is it comes with the PTX die and shell holder. I found out that Hornady discontinued the shell plate for the .45 Schofield! It's their die plate #41. If anyone has one they can part with, let me know. I posted a WTB ad on the SASS Wire Classified page. Thank you again for all your excellent advice everyone, especially Driftwood!