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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. A Cheerio you picked up off the floor from under the high chair works, too.
  2. Get very good accuracy at 100 yards with my load that is about 6.5 grains of Winchester Super Target (WST) and a 230 grain flat nose truncated cone cast slug. About 2" groups consistently. If hog hunting, I'd step up to a heavy load of Unique and a 250 grain jacketed bullet. Why mess with cast when there are great jacketed bullets for hunting something that could be dangerous? It really does not take long to reset your factory open sights for another load, and all you will likely need is a step lower on the rear sight.. good luck, GJ
  3. I find loading Federal hulls to be quite a bit fussy. They do need different loading equipment adjustment than the Rem and Win hulls. I reserve a separate loader just for Federal loading. Ouch. That's not enough description to let us help you. Got pictures? A crimp problem would not be enough to make me convert over to roll crimping. That's just me, perhaps. You realize that you found a large lot of Top Gun hulls because very few folks even TRY to reload them, don't you? I load 'em because I;m stubborn about learning how to load them when o
  4. Zinc bullets are not a new idea. Right after WW II, target shooters went through a phase of casting and shooting zinc slugs rather than lead wadcutters. They gave it up after a few years. Hard on sizing machines! Never quite as reliably accurate as lead. They can be cast in the same iron/steel molds as lead alloys. BUT - zinc is running $1.30 and up a pound, lead is $1.00 a pound (bulk metal exchange pricing). Not much cost savings to be had. And at the risk of ruining the lead in shooting range berms by adding more zinc contamination to the scrap in the berm.
  5. First, the new powder complete name is Nitro 100 NF - NF stands for New Formulation The old version of the powder is Nitro 100. Similar uses - fast shotgun and pistol powder. But the load data varies between the old and new. So, be sure which you are loading. good luck, GJ
  6. No, usually zinc alloys have no value at the scrap yard. However, you just might find a yard that wants to pay a little for it. Around here, no way. good luck, GJ
  7. Generally, a novice should buy lead of the alloy that they want to cast from. The most common casting alloy is 6% antimony, 2% tin and rest lead. But, that is more expensive than soft lead, and it's harder than what you really need. So, beginners can buy ingots of 6-2 lead alloy, sometimes labeled Hardball alloy, from a reputable source. Then visit a larger junk yard and try to get "soft lead" pipe, plumbers lead or sheet lead. Mix that 10 pounds of soft and 10 pounds of hardball alloy and you have a wonderful cowboy casting bullet. And add 3 ounces of tin solder and it will cast even
  8. I can see the grass skirts swaying from one end of the target array to the other already. aloha, GJ (yeah, typed while wearing a Hawaiian shirt )
  9. Probably more like 10 years. I believe it was introduced in 2011. good luck, GJ
  10. Most gun stainless is either 410 series or 420 grade stainless steel. Due to potential for galling on tight-fitting parts, often there are mixes of stainless grades used on a single gun. I would assume the pins you bought were heat treated for proper hardness. As you found, the 400 series stainless steels are magnetic. But, unless you intend to weld on your firing pins, or set up machining to make your own, the actual grade of stainless is pretty immaterial. Lots of low-end pocket knife blades are made from 440 grade stainless with some hardening.
  11. Well, the Top Gun with a brass head can be reloaded, but you have to be REAL careful to set the hull straight in the sizer die, or the sizer die can catch and tear the brass-colored head cover. You might want to size and deprime a batch of hulls first, then inspect any for torn brass, then continue on loading from there after tossing the torn ones. And none of the Federal hulls are real well suited to Cowboy loads, because they have so much volume to fill up to get a good crimp. That large volume often gets filled with POWDER by the Federal factory, and that makes for some FAST
  12. His "problem" with backed out primers was almost certainly due to extremely light loads. Not the gun. A lesson here is never tinker with a gun without establishing that you are not being stupid with your ammo. And also, hide the Dremel tool from any new shooter for a couple of years, until they learn the ropes. And also, if other folks don't have problems with their guns, and you do, assume you don't know what the problem is yet and leave the guns alone until you investigate! good luck, GJ
  13. LOTS of Nitro 100 NF data in the Western Powders Handloading Guide Edition 1, published in 2017. I'll give you a "common components" load from there to make minimum velocity in the range of loading data they published. Win AA (HS) hull Win 209 primer Win WAA12SL (pink) wad 16.4 grains Nitro 100 NF 7/8 ounce shot Makes about 1225 FPS and about 7,700 PSI chamber pressure. You should use your standard shotshell loading precautions if you want to explore. For even lighter loads, you can work downwards with powder charg
  14. That "other" bolt may be a good choice to run with. I'm not sure that I'm seeing the front end of the support tab real well in your photos. Ideally the leading edge of the tab should be rounded. Yours in pics looks like it has a flat face. Either a flat face or a sharp point there on the tip of the support tab can grab into the rear of the case as the round chambers, which feels like resistance and a bump as you close action. And, make sure the tip of the extractor is angled enough on it's lower face to allow the extractor hook to get completely into the recess ju
  15. HS-6 powder is listed in the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 4th Edition. But, the velocities for even a lead bullet range higher than you probably want for cowboy shooting. For a 158 grain cast bullet, HS-6 with 9.2 grains of powder makes about 1150 FPS from revolver (starting load) And with 10.2 grains of powder, makes about 1250 FPS (max load shown). ! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now, in .38 special load data, there's a much tamer velocity range:
  16. Show a pic of the cartridge support tab at the bottom of bolt. Best photo to check if that tab has bent is a shot parallel to the bolt face, centered on the centerline of bolt (so that the pic will show the profile of the firing pin tip if the pin is extended). Many 73 bolts will sag at the bolt face a little if no cartridge being fed. That can indicate the fit between the bolt socket and the nose end of the firing pin extension is loose, or that there is wear on the frame where the bolt slides forward over the carrier. Check that for a lot of slop, too. A cartridge being fed
  17. Losing the case off the extractor indicates either a weak extractor, improper hook shape, or damage to the cartridge support tab at lower front face of the bolt. Most likely the extractor has collected dirt under body of the extractor, or the spring-tension has been lost by use. You must have the case firmly held by extractor hook and support tab so the carrier as it rises quickly kicks the case out of the receiver. A loose case makes it hard to eject, and hinders consistent ejection direction. Tip of extractor needs to be filed down so there is no impact into the rea
  18. Confirmed. Merriam Webster online has this entry: shavetail noun shave·tail | \ ˈshāv-ˌtāl Definition of shavetail 1 : a pack mule especially when newly broken in 2 usually disparaging : second lieutenant First Known Use of shavetail 1846, in the meaning defined at sense 1 History and Etymology for shavetail from the practice of shaving the tails of newly broken mules to distinguish them from seasoned ones good luck, GJ
  19. Yep, pretty sure I did. 2 AM one November, 1983, if I remember right, clear skies, in mountains of western NM elk hunting. One roared right up the canyon in which I was camped. Noisy enough to give a half-minute's notice before it passed. Was able to jump out the tent door and couldn't see it. No lights on. Stars disappeared for a split second when it was overhead. A spooky gremlin for sure. good luck, GJ
  20. Bending is more accurate if you only have to put 40-60 pounds force on the loop end "pipe". If you put all your weight or lift capability into a bending effort, you have less control and can easily go past your desired point. good luck, GJ
  21. I've bent a couple of 73 levers back to shape. Here's how that was done. Firmly clamp the front of lever and first inch of the trigger guard section in a heavy and solidly secured vise. Upside down may work best for you for the downward bend you need to make in the lever. Get the vise jaws on the flats of the lever and pull up on the finger loop section. Now, the thinnest part of the trigger bow is usually where the bend happened, and the easiest place to re-bend back to original. Find a heavy wall plastic pipe, maybe 3 or 4 feet long, that just fits over the finger loop.
  22. Didn't say it was a SLOW powder. Compared to the powders used for pistol caliber cartridges, however, it's slower burning than most of the ones commonly used in cowboy shooting. There's 28 faster pistol and shotgun powders listed on the current Hodgdon powder burn rate chart. And, if I had only one powder to choose, I'd have to figure out which cartridge and type of shooting was most important to me. Right now, I am using more Red Dot (and Red) than any other powder. And second on my purchasing list is WST. Currently, if one tries to find a powder that is really u
  23. To remove the discoloration of the plastic? Very hard to remove. Order replacement hoppers, or ..... Folks concerned about that discoloration switch to pyrex glass powder and shot tubes. Very strong and never discolor from the solvents and graphite in powder and on shot. good luck, GJ
  24. I still do use gas checks - on most rifle bullets. Makes base much more uniform and resistant to gas cutting. Accuracy matches with cast bullets at 100 to 300 yards by Cast Bullet Association has shooters almost universally using gas checked bullets. Almost no one using powder coated slugs, BTW. good luck, GJ
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