Help with a 73 extractor.

[Doc Moses]

Okay. Bought a 'project' uberti 73. Big mistake. Would have been cheaper to buy a new one but...pretty fun to work on. My issue. It was all working well, (after I had a REAL smith finish up the work on it) then...the extractor came off. I found the old extractor pin after I ordered a new one. The pin and extractor on the right are the ones I got from Taylor's. On the left is the original. How lose is the pin supposed to be in the extractor?  The new extractor is different from the old one. Will it work?  Should I use the 'new and improved' or go back with the old one?  Do I just slide the pin in then re-assemble the rifle?  Oyveh!  U get the idea. Advice is appreciated. Thanks

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Extractor on the right is a 66 extractor, because it has no upper "crest" that pulls the dust cover open.  They should have sent you a 73 extractor.  Not a big deal if you never close the dust cover, though.

 

The pin holding the extractor should be loose enough that the extractor pivots up and down and is only bound when the tail of the extractor hits the bottom of slot, or the arm of the extractor hits the forward bottom part of slot.  Use abrasive paper on the pin, not a drill in the hole of either the bolt or the extractor.  Unless the extractor pin hole is just way undersized, then carefully drill it to same size as pin.

 

I'd use the new extractor if the groove in the tip fits your cartridge case well.  Just because it has no wear on it yet.  Who knows how many rounds are on the old one. 

 

Typically you have to fit the tail of the extractor to be able to line up the pin hole in extractor with the pin hole in the bolt.   File only on the extractor tail.  Then install gently the new pin (bends easily), and file/stone it smooth so the ends don't drag on the frame.  Don't narrow the extractor thickness unless it is snug in the bolt slot. You can "spot" the pin hole (with countersink used very sparingly) on each end to put in a dimple that allows you to get the pin started easier.  And it removes easier too.

 

Test extractor strength after you get the bolt put back together.  I pull straight up on the tip of extractor until the lips of the extractor nose are above the bolt body.  If it hurts too much on your finger tip to do that, file/stone a LITTLE off the extractor arm.  Thinning it in the vertical direction.  If the extractor pulls up easily without putting the hurt on your finger, the extractor arm is too weak and the tip will slip off a firmly stuck case.

 

good luck, GJ

 

[Doc Moses]

Grr!  I just looked and sure enough I ordered the 66 extractor and pin!  I hate it when things r my fault. I may try the old one and the old pin. The pin is super lose though. Will that work or do I need to rough it up or something?

[Nickel City Dude]

If the pin is lose in the hole, sometimes if you "carefully put a slight bend in the pin" it will stay in once it is in place.

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

I make new pins from 0.069" "black rebar tie wire".  Straighten out a 1" piece.  Sand with crocus cloth until it's snug in hole.   Never had one fail.  And it's soft enough to drill out without damaging bolt or extractor if you have to.  Otherwise, cut a chunk from a 1/16" drill bit (the shank, not the flutes)  The original pin is a 1/16" I believe.

 

good luck, GJ

 

 

[Doc Moses]

I followed the good advice. Put the 73 back n with the old pin. It was really lose so I put a little bend n the side sticking out and tapped it n. Seems 2 b working now...I won't trust it 4 a match yet without my 22 or 92 as a back up but glad to have it running. If it comes out I will make a new pin as was also suggested. Thank yall 4 the help. Here is a pic of the 'fixed' rifle.

[Dusty Devil Dale]

On 12/7/2021 at 7:27 PM, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

Extractor on the right is a 66 extractor, because it has no upper "crest" that pulls the dust cover open.  They should have sent you a 73 extractor.  Not a big deal if you never close the dust cover, though.

 

The pin holding the extractor should be loose enough that the extractor pivots up and down and is only bound when the tail of the extractor hits the bottom of slot, or the arm of the extractor hits the forward bottom part of slot.  Use abrasive paper on the pin, not a drill in the hole of either the bolt or the extractor.  Unless the extractor pin hole is just way undersized, then carefully drill it to same size as pin.

 

I'd use the new extractor if the groove in the tip fits your cartridge case well.  Just because it has no wear on it yet.  Who knows how many rounds are on the old one. 

 

Typically you have to fit the tail of the extractor to be able to line up the pin hole in extractor with the pin hole in the bolt.   File only on the extractor tail.  Then install gently the new pin (bends easily), and file/stone it smooth so the ends don't drag on the frame.  Don't narrow the extractor thickness unless it is snug in the bolt slot. You can "spot" the pin hole (with countersink used very sparingly) on each end to put in a dimple that allows you to get the pin started easier.  And it removes easier too.

 

Test extractor strength after you get the bolt put back together.  I pull straight up on the tip of extractor until the lips of the extractor nose are above the bolt body.  If it hurts too much on your finger tip to do that, file/stone a LITTLE off the extractor arm.  Thinning it in the vertical direction.  If the extractor pulls up easily without putting the hurt on your finger, the extractor arm is too weak and the tip will slip off a firmly stuck case.

 

good luck, GJ

 

OK !  I tried your center punch trick.  What a difference even a tiny dimple made in seating the wire.  Thanks for sharing.