Null N. Void

I think the first shot is the dividing line. If the shooter realizes after the beep he/she doesn't have ammo, he/she can request a restart. Once it's given, the shooter can get what they need.

The TO and spotters stated a fact. The shooter holstered the revolver with a round left. The shooter owns the stage and was given correct information. No reshoot.

The ACP dies on my Dillon SDB are about 5 years old. I use those and a 45 Colt base plate. In the number 3 position, I set the bullet to where the cartridge lip is even to just below the crimp groove. What I did was back the crimp stage (#4) adjustment all the way off and move the cartridge to the # 4 position. I then tightened it up to where it just started to crimp and went about a 1/2 turn. I took the cartridge out and tapped it fairly hard to see if the bullet would move. If it doesn't, it's good for revolvers. If it moves, put it back in and give it another 1/4 turn and keep testing until it bullet won't move. On mine, it actually pushed the lip into the groove. It measures about .007 of reduced diameter into the crimp groove. It doesn't matter for 45 Colt revolvers at the loads we shoot at whether it's a taper, a crimp or something in between so long as the bullet stays put. The bullet I used is a 160 grain from "Bullets by Scarlett". I use 3.8 grains of Red Dot. I don't shoot the 45s any more, but that was the combination I used for a couple of years. I also use the Cowboy 45 Special for rifle reloads in Wild bunch. I use a 230 grain RN that's a 45 ACP bullet. That's adjusted the same way as above except is a straight taper crimp and is identical in overall length to the 230 grain bullets I loaded for WB.

This only apples to use a Dillon SDB. The dies are SDB dies that will only work on a SDB reloader for 45 Colt. With a 160 grain bullet with a crimp groove, it will fold the lip of the brass into the crimp groove when properly adjusted even though they are a taper crimp. These work fine for 45 Colt Ruger Revolvers.

Are you naturally this stupid or do you practice?

I use Johnny Ross (johnny@jm-leather.com) in Bulls Gap, Tenn. If you e-mail him or get him on the phone he's easy to work with and the quality is as good as anything I've used. Here's his web site. http://jm-leather.com/ He will make anything you want. Just give him a call.

I recently purchased the Lansky Sharpeners MEDGE1 Sharpening System Medium & Fine. It works well and doesn't need water or oil. It will put an edge sharp enough to shave hair off of your arm. I sold all my other stones.

I read your post. I was referring to some of the other comments

Never confuse intelligence with education.

Absolutely correct. It takes time to shift the supply chains from schools, restaurants and businesses to supermarkets. The TP industry may take months to change if they ever do.

When you post stages, good shooters may or may not practice them. They probably don't need to because they are GOOD shooters. They have been doing this for a while and probably practice in some form a couple of times a week. They will do well because of the effort they put in. The published stages really help out the new shooters. They have not seen all the patterns, and it's good for anyone who wants to get better to see the patterns and figure out the transitions.

I always send them. You don't have to read them.

All guns need to be sighted in if you want to go fast, IMHO. Trying to remember to hold at the top of a plate of a Texas Star while the plate is moving is a hard task. It's much easier to hold on the middle to bottom of the plate where the muzzle doesn't hide most of it. Sometimes you have to hit the top of a knockdown. For me, it's much easier if I can see the whole target when I aim. When you go to sight them in, take a friend with you and have them fire some rounds. It's good to see where someone else's groups go vs. yours. If you're filing, do a little and see where it goes. I usually do mine over three or four sessions. If you do too much, it's much harder to correct.

A long time ago, I had a occasional poor ignition with the load I was using. The bullets cleared, but were very weak. I switched to magnum primers, and never had the problem again. I have continued to use them.

Jeans and a western shirt with snaps are required for B-Western. They are perfectly acceptable for age based categories.