Null N. Void

I use Winchester Primers. As was said, they are flat all the way across. I find I have one fussy SG that does not like Federals, but goes off every time with Winchesters.

I would suggest you get to some matches first. Rules have changed significantly over 20 years. I'd look at the firearms first to decide what you'd like to shoot. If you have some, bring them with you. I'm sure the club would work with you to use what you have or try some other firearms out. I suggest deciding on firearms and category first, then working on clothing. You can change your alias later if you find the first one you picked isn't what you wanted long term. Clothing and Alias are easy and cheap to change. Firearms, not so much. Welcome Back!

I loved being an Engineer after I got out of the Navy and received my degree. I did Mechanical Reliability on a chemical plant, worked on photographic film processing equipment, was a Packaging Engineer, and ended up being the lead Technical Engineer on fluorine based chemicals and films. However, the best job I had was was being an Instructor at the Naval Nuclear Power Training Facility. I was enlisted Navy and qualified for Nuclear Propulsion and was picked up as an instructor. I loved being an instructor. I loved being with people who worked to make you a better instructor. I loved the challenge of making newbies competent operators. I worked with a great group of enlisted guys and a good group of officers. It was a wonderful couple of years. I've always loved music but am pretty much tone deaf. I would have loved to be a rock musician but that wasn't to be. I don't regret anything. Each bump in the road lead me to something bigger and better.

Some statues you just don't mess with.

You could have a dust explosion. This is a You Tube video showing how it could happen. YMMV

I agree with the comment about keeping it in the original containers as they are designed for the product and have the proper labels. Static buildup can be a problem with glass containers. It could occur as you pour the powder into the glass or if you have a charge on you and you open the container. It takes quite a bit to ignite smokeless powder, but anything is possible and then you'd have a flaming container. If you absolutely had to, I'd stick with black plastic powder containers that are properly labeled as they are made to reduce the static potential. Plain plastic, like Tupperware is not anti static and you could get into the same issues as the glass containers. If it's small amounts, I'd just dispose of it

Give Three Cut a call. He works on them, and may have some spares or can give you guidance on where to find replacements.

One can't avoid all the stuff one doesn't like. Unless someone is trying to jam it down my throat, I don't worry about it. I've been trying to buy American for years. It's a pleasure when I can do it. Most of the time I can't. She's a nice young lady representing a company I feel good to deal with. In some long ago advice from my Navy days, "Don't sweat the small S***."

I think the first shot is the dividing line. If the shooter realizes after the beep he/she doesn't have ammo, he/she can request a restart. Once it's given, the shooter can get what they need.

The TO and spotters stated a fact. The shooter holstered the revolver with a round left. The shooter owns the stage and was given correct information. No reshoot.

The ACP dies on my Dillon SDB are about 5 years old. I use those and a 45 Colt base plate. In the number 3 position, I set the bullet to where the cartridge lip is even to just below the crimp groove. What I did was back the crimp stage (#4) adjustment all the way off and move the cartridge to the # 4 position. I then tightened it up to where it just started to crimp and went about a 1/2 turn. I took the cartridge out and tapped it fairly hard to see if the bullet would move. If it doesn't, it's good for revolvers. If it moves, put it back in and give it another 1/4 turn and keep testing until it bullet won't move. On mine, it actually pushed the lip into the groove. It measures about .007 of reduced diameter into the crimp groove. It doesn't matter for 45 Colt revolvers at the loads we shoot at whether it's a taper, a crimp or something in between so long as the bullet stays put. The bullet I used is a 160 grain from "Bullets by Scarlett". I use 3.8 grains of Red Dot. I don't shoot the 45s any more, but that was the combination I used for a couple of years. I also use the Cowboy 45 Special for rifle reloads in Wild bunch. I use a 230 grain RN that's a 45 ACP bullet. That's adjusted the same way as above except is a straight taper crimp and is identical in overall length to the 230 grain bullets I loaded for WB.

This only apples to use a Dillon SDB. The dies are SDB dies that will only work on a SDB reloader for 45 Colt. With a 160 grain bullet with a crimp groove, it will fold the lip of the brass into the crimp groove when properly adjusted even though they are a taper crimp. These work fine for 45 Colt Ruger Revolvers.

Are you naturally this stupid or do you practice?

I use Johnny Ross (johnny@jm-leather.com) in Bulls Gap, Tenn. If you e-mail him or get him on the phone he's easy to work with and the quality is as good as anything I've used. Here's his web site. http://jm-leather.com/ He will make anything you want. Just give him a call.

I recently purchased the Lansky Sharpeners MEDGE1 Sharpening System Medium & Fine. It works well and doesn't need water or oil. It will put an edge sharp enough to shave hair off of your arm. I sold all my other stones.

I read your post. I was referring to some of the other comments

Never confuse intelligence with education.

Absolutely correct. It takes time to shift the supply chains from schools, restaurants and businesses to supermarkets. The TP industry may take months to change if they ever do.

When you post stages, good shooters may or may not practice them. They probably don't need to because they are GOOD shooters. They have been doing this for a while and probably practice in some form a couple of times a week. They will do well because of the effort they put in. The published stages really help out the new shooters. They have not seen all the patterns, and it's good for anyone who wants to get better to see the patterns and figure out the transitions.

I always send them. You don't have to read them.

All guns need to be sighted in if you want to go fast, IMHO. Trying to remember to hold at the top of a plate of a Texas Star while the plate is moving is a hard task. It's much easier to hold on the middle to bottom of the plate where the muzzle doesn't hide most of it. Sometimes you have to hit the top of a knockdown. For me, it's much easier if I can see the whole target when I aim. When you go to sight them in, take a friend with you and have them fire some rounds. It's good to see where someone else's groups go vs. yours. If you're filing, do a little and see where it goes. I usually do mine over three or four sessions. If you do too much, it's much harder to correct.

A long time ago, I had a occasional poor ignition with the load I was using. The bullets cleared, but were very weak. I switched to magnum primers, and never had the problem again. I have continued to use them.

Jeans and a western shirt with snaps are required for B-Western. They are perfectly acceptable for age based categories.

Half bubble off.

I use Promo. (1 oz., pink wad, about 14 grains) When I open a new jug, I check the weight and change the bushing, if necessary. Larry